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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

My 02 GXE, 1.8L with 180K on it has been an incredibly reliable commuter until a couple weeks ago. At first it was just a hiccup, a week later it became worse where it was stalling a couple times...but it would re-start and then drive perfectly again.

I put it on my scanner and got a P0403 code. I swapped coils and got a P0402, so, easy, I replaced the coil, plugs and code went away. The problem came back, but now I don't get a code or ANY codes. Any ideas??
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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The P0402 and the P0403 fault codes result from a problem with the EGR volume control valve system or the EGR valve itself; check the harness connectors on the EGR solenoid for tightness and oxidation on the pins. The EGR valve may be dirty with carbon buildup.

There might also be an electrical problem according to your title saying "tach going nuts". Check the ground point connections for tightness and possible oxidation on the engine control harness in the engine room. There may be a charging system problem. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply, however, I misspoke on the code I was getting, it was a P303 or a misfire cyl. 3 and I swapped out the COP #3 with #2 and then got P0302, which is why I replaced THAT coil. Then the misfire code went away, but the problem persists.

But I was going to pull the EGR next anyway and see if it was clogged or dirty. I hadn't thought of the overall charging system and I plan to throw a DVM on it to see what my reading is, static and running. My quandry is that I'm not getting any other codes.

I had someone else tell me that my scanner did not have the capability to pinpoint a code( it's a good Snap-On scanner, not one of those cell phone scanners) and that I should take it to a specialized shop that could eval. the whole system while the car is going/moving/running. My scanner has I/M monitoring and has not looked odd even when the problem is actively going on at idle/driving.

So, onward with my diagnostics because until I have done everything I'm not going to spend $300-400 to put it on the dealers scanner. Thank you.
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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The two components that most frequently cause the problem that you're encountering is the camshaft position sensor (CMP) and the crankshaft position sensor (CKP). These sensors can intermittently cause these problems without setting an ECU fault code. We've had many members on this forum who have had similar problems such as yours and the fix was replacement of the two sensors. Why I say replacement of both sensors is that the problem can be caused by ether sensor so the solution is to replace both of them. They are not that expensive. Buy only OEM components from a Nissan dealer; other aftermarket sensors, like from Ebay, often don't last long, cause more problems and many times are DOA. Nissan dealers offer a sensor kit that consists of both sensors; saving you some money.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So, I checked the EGR, not dirty, looks brand new, plug, wires and harness all clean, looks good.

Then I checked the charging system. Good 14.6 at idle coming from alt. Static, at 12.6...after I let it idle for about 5 minutes. BUT then I decided to do a quick load test on the battery. Turned on the lights and the reading went to 11.2 almost immediately and went down to 9.5 in about three minutes. Turned off lights. Tried to start it, no go. So the alternator seems fine but I need a battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So, I put the battery on a charger for a few hours and tried to start it again. Cranked and cranked and cranked but no fire. Same symptom of my Jeeps when the CKP goes out. Checked the scanner for pending codes and got CKP malfunction. So rogoman, I think you're right about my problem. I don't think I had a good enough signal, due to bad battery, and when I did it popped the CKP code. Tomorrow it's off to the dealer (30 miles away) to pick up the sensor kit. Crossed fingers...and thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
rogoman I'd like to thank you for responding to my post and troubleshooting this problem with me. My car is back on the road.
I replaced the CKP and it started right up, ran it for a short trip (20 miles R/T) and not a hiccup. Smooth as silk. I came home and replaced the CMP and battery as well just for S & G's.

Thought I'd update the outcome for someone else.

P.S. Changing out the CKP was a PITA (getting to it AND getting it out) especially laying on my back on the gravel driveway
 
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