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I dont know if this is the right place ( im sure itll get moved if its not) but I was just wondering about how much should it cost to get my belts replaced? ( including labor?) I noticed theyre getting alot of cracks and starting to make the slightest of noise when im driving. I really dont want to get skewed by a shop.. so I want to have some references to go off of. (assuming someone here has had that done recently?)
 

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Nissan_4.2.0. said:
I dont know if this is the right place ( im sure itll get moved if its not) but I was just wondering about how much should it cost to get my belts replaced? ( including labor?) I noticed theyre getting alot of cracks and starting to make the slightest of noise when im driving. I really dont want to get skewed by a shop.. so I want to have some references to go off of. (assuming someone here has had that done recently?)

I had it changed for $90 including labor and this was the cheapest, but I think it is easy to change, people can help you out
 

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simple process that you can do yourself with only about 25 dollars in parts.

i have no idea how much a shop charges

maybe parts+2 hours work or 1 for a good mechanic
 

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20$ for both belts, and 20$ for labor. But he's a friend of mine (the guy who changed them). And now I've learned how and will do it myself next time.
 

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TwiztidKidd
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It's really easy to replace them. You want to draw a routing sketch before you take them all off so you don't spend an hour trying to figure it out which goes on what pulley. Also careful when you tension them... you could ruin the bearing in the water pump or the two bearings in the alternator if you overtighten the tensioners. Usually that part would make a whinning noise but it will fail soon if you drive the car like that. Oh also you want to make sure your A/C belt doesn't slip when the clutch on the compressor engages. So you'll have to start the A/C to test the adjustment on that belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Twiz said:
It's really easy to replace them. You want to draw a routing sketch before you take them all off so you don't spend an hour trying to figure it out which goes on what pulley. Also careful when you tension them... you could ruin the bearing in the water pump or the two bearings in the alternator if you overtighten the tensioners. Usually that part would make a whinning noise but it will fail soon if you drive the car like that. Oh also you want to make sure your A/C belt doesn't slip when the clutch on the compressor engages. So you'll have to start the A/C to test the adjustment on that belt.
Cool. Ill take a look at it when I get some more sun tomorrow. Funny thing, my A/C doesnt work at all and I cant figure out why. I think its teh condenser? But the girl might have said compressor. I cant remember. I heard both are expensive.
 

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TwiztidKidd
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Mine doesn't kick in either and I just replaced the compressor last year. It was $130 brand new, some cheap brand Four Seasons never heard of them... dealer wants $424 for the Calsonic compressor. I got a freon gauge to check pressure and I'm gonna shoot a can of freon in the low port and disconnect the battery and reconnect it... see if it kicks in. When the compressor is blown that thing would be all up in smoke, you should be able to tell. Usually when you set the A/C on both radiator fans will blast on high.
 

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Twiz said:
Mine doesn't kick in either and I just replaced the compressor last year. It was $130 brand new, some cheap brand Four Seasons never heard of them... dealer wants $424 for the Calsonic compressor. I got a freon gauge to check pressure and I'm gonna shoot a can of freon in the low port and disconnect the battery and reconnect it... see if it kicks in. When the compressor is blown that thing would be all up in smoke, you should be able to tell. Usually when you set the A/C on both radiator fans will blast on high.
Well, it definitely doesnt smoke. And im glad cause I dont want to shell out half a G for a new compressor. Id rather have a Stromung Exhaust :thumbup: I guess ill have the condensor checked at the shop. The fans dont move any differently when the button is on though, im pretty sure of that. Although, the button still turns blue! To be honest, the fans still blow pretty cold without the a/c. Every other 4 cylinder ive driven seems doggish with the A/C on which I really hate. Anyway now im getting off topic. Thanks for the advice
 

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belts aren't hard on these engines. the most difficult one is the power steering/water pump belt cos of the tensioner screw position. the power steering pump pivots to adjust tension. if I remember correctly, from inside-out, starting at the closest to the engine and going out, it's alternator belt, power steering/water pump, and then the compressor belt.

also with your a/c compressor not working... check the wiring harnesses to it. the wire for the compressor shares harnesses with the alternator wiring harness.

Dan
 

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I just bought both belts and it cost me $20 at Ricer Zone. The tensioner pulley for the alternator/Compressor belt will give you fits until you realize that it has a small tensioning bolt that moves the pulley in and out to tension it. IIRC, you need to loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, but DO NOT REMOVE IT! It will do you no good to do so. Also, make sure to retighten this bolt when all is said and done. I failed to do so once, and the pulley and bolt fell off (luckily) in my driveway as I was working on it. When you tighten the belts, remember to have the tensioner pulley tight enough that it does not significantly deflect. Otherwise, it will not tighten properly and the bolt will eventually fall out, not to mention it may ruin the belt and pulley bearing because it will not ride centered.You will want about a half an inch deflection at the center between the 2 pulleys that are spaced farthest apart when you are doen so that you do not overstress the accessory bearings.

As far as the A/C goes, you are better off with a warranteed used compressor as compared to a rebuilt one.The rebuilds are usually done in Chinese sweatshops with low quality parts that are not up to Nissan standards. I put a used compressor in my 95 Sentra 50,000 miles ago and it still works fine. I have seen rebuilds die in under 15,000. I did the job myself and with the R134a, compressor, a used condenser (I bought the car with a wrecked front end for $350 and rebuilt it) and a new filter/dryer for like $250.What you need to determine is if the compressor is turning on and if not , why? If it does not turn on, it likely has a leak and the system leaked enough refrigerant out that the low pressure switch shut it down.If that is the case, you can get the tracer dye from the parts store and put it in to see where it is leaking and then, repair it. If it is a bad compressor,you will want to have the system evacuated after the new compressor is in place, and replace the filter/dryer.To tell if the compressor is bad, look at the compressor pulley and have someone turn on the A/C while you watch. You should see the inner part of the pulley start to spin.If it does not, then it is not turning on. This could be due to low pressure, or a bad electromagnet. To test this, probe it with a test light.If it lights, the magnet is bad. If not, then the pressure is low.

I fix cars for friends and given the pain in the a** that this car can be to change belts on, I would usually charge nothing for someone who is really poor and has kids, $20 to do it for someone I like ( that doesn't have skills to trade later), and $40 for someone I don't really know.My labor rate is between $10 and $20 when I fix things depending on weather or not I want to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
himilefrontier said:
I just bought both belts and it cost me $20 at Ricer Zone. The tensioner pulley for the alternator/Compressor belt will give you fits until you realize that it has a small tensioning bolt that moves the pulley in and out to tension it. IIRC, you need to loosen the tensioner pulley bolt, but DO NOT REMOVE IT! It will do you no good to do so. Also, make sure to retighten this bolt when all is said and done. I failed to do so once, and the pulley and bolt fell off (luckily) in my driveway as I was working on it. When you tighten the belts, remember to have the tensioner pulley tight enough that it does not significantly deflect. Otherwise, it will not tighten properly and the bolt will eventually fall out, not to mention it may ruin the belt and pulley bearing because it will not ride centered.You will want about a half an inch deflection at the center between the 2 pulleys that are spaced farthest apart when you are doen so that you do not overstress the accessory bearings.

As far as the A/C goes, you are better off with a warranteed used compressor as compared to a rebuilt one.The rebuilds are usually done in Chinese sweatshops with low quality parts that are not up to Nissan standards. I put a used compressor in my 95 Sentra 50,000 miles ago and it still works fine. I have seen rebuilds die in under 15,000. I did the job myself and with the R134a, compressor, a used condenser (I bought the car with a wrecked front end for $350 and rebuilt it) and a new filter/dryer for like $250.What you need to determine is if the compressor is turning on and if not , why? If it does not turn on, it likely has a leak and the system leaked enough refrigerant out that the low pressure switch shut it down.If that is the case, you can get the tracer dye from the parts store and put it in to see where it is leaking and then, repair it. If it is a bad compressor,you will want to have the system evacuated after the new compressor is in place, and replace the filter/dryer.To tell if the compressor is bad, look at the compressor pulley and have someone turn on the A/C while you watch. You should see the inner part of the pulley start to spin.If it does not, then it is not turning on. This could be due to low pressure, or a bad electromagnet. To test this, probe it with a test light.If it lights, the magnet is bad. If not, then the pressure is low.

I fix cars for friends and given the pain in the a** that this car can be to change belts on, I would usually charge nothing for someone who is really poor and has kids, $20 to do it for someone I like ( that doesn't have skills to trade later), and $40 for someone I don't really know.My labor rate is between $10 and $20 when I fix things depending on weather or not I want to do it.
Awesome. Thanks for all the great advice. Now hopefully this summer I wont be wheeling around with the windows down a whole lot. I have noticed that in most 4cyl cars, the A/C pretty much sucks the life out of the engine while driving. Have you found this to be true on 200sx's? Anyway, with all the help I should have this sh8t fixed by next week. Thanks again!
 

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Nissan_4.2.0. said:
Awesome. Thanks for all the great advice. Now hopefully this summer I wont be wheeling around with the windows down a whole lot. I have noticed that in most 4cyl cars, the A/C pretty much sucks the life out of the engine while driving. Have you found this to be true on 200sx's? Anyway, with all the help I should have this sh8t fixed by next week. Thanks again!
On my Sentra, it's noticeable, but not too bad. At 115 hp, it has more power than older 4 banger cars did so it's not as big a deal to loose 5-10 hp as it would be o nsay, a Hyundai Excel with 65hp (or so).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ifoam said:
simple process that you can do yourself with only about 25 dollars in parts.

i have no idea how much a shop charges

maybe parts+2 hours work or 1 for a good mechanic

Well, update on my car. I just replaced the two belts, and after looking at the old ones im suprised they didnt go earlier. There were cracks along every inch of the belt, and it was starting to fray really bad where I couldnt see. Anyway, after about 100 bucks and alot of time I got them replaced. It was really hard but worth the effort, and I learned ALOT about my engine. Thanks for everyones input, now my car's running tighter than it ever has! Next up ill be tackling the brakes. Thanks again to everyone for their help.
 
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