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Discussion Starter #1
My main question.. I'm swapping heads between a my two Sentra's.. Do I need to buy new headbolts? These don't look like the stretch kind, but I wanted to make sure.
Next question.. I'm yanking out all of the vacuum lines and assorted modules.. ;> Anyone done this and kept the stock carb? Am I dooming myself to a pissed off computer, or is this carb hopeless either way? ;> Anyone have an adapter plate for a Weber 32/36 carb for this engine?
Thanks
 

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Ex-mod/nissan guru
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the bolt from the e16 arent the stretch kind... they are usable has many time as you can take them off.. ;) until they break...its not going to happen anyway...

i cant help you with the carb section but maybe Blownb310 can.... hes the carb god around here ;)
 

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hey any help with this damn carb would be a big help, hell , im about to snatch up a ga15 in a minute if i keep going through the same crap
 

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Remeber that the Weber carbs won't pass emmissions.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Heh, No emissions testing where I live. :) Nice clean air here. :)
 

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UnaClocker said:
Heh, No emissions testing where I live. :) Nice clean air here. :)
Damn they just started that in my area. Hopefully I won't have the Sentra at that time because it WON'T pass.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I have both engines out now. I got the seized engine out of the '87 B12 yesterday. I left the tranny in the car when I did that. Today I removed the engine and transmission from the donor '85 B11. The donor car came with a very bad head, had a groove between two cylinders from the idiot that drove it with a blown head gasket. The head from the seized engine (which was run without oil by some previous owner) was still in relatively good condition, so I'll be using it to get the engine running again. I will be attempting to put the '85 engine into the '87 car tomorrow. Somehow I anticipate this being a royal pain in the ass, just seemed like there wasn't much space to work with when I reefed the last one out of there. ;> I'd pull the tranny and put them both in at once, but I don't have a pickel fork handy. Maybe I'll just relent and rent one. Heh, I'm just a really cheap bastard at times.
Anyways, I had the donor head washed down at the local machine shop. After looking it over, I have some worries about it. First of all, the back of the intake valves were coated in carbon, THICK. I cleaned them up by opening them one at a time and using brake cleaner and paper towels. It seems really odd to me that INTAKE valves would be carbon coated. Doesn't it? Anyways, I leak checked the valves by squirting brake cleaner into the intake ports while the valves were closed. Well they're not water tight, so that has me concerned. They're ALOT better than they were before I cleaned them, they're almost water tight now. Same with the exhaust valves, but they didn't need to be cleaned.
Now my question is, what do you think caused those intake valves to get so dirty inside? I have two theories. Theory 1 is a bad EGR valve, just dumpin shit into the intake anytime the engine was running. Theory 2 is a clogged catalytic converter.
BTW, the '87 and it's head have 115k miles on them.
Anyways, wish me luck just getting the darn block back in it's hole. ;)
 

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Why bother putting that crap engine in your car?? You're just going to have to get another one.
 

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Unaclocker, the carbon buildup on the backs of the intake valves is pretty normal on high mileage E-engines. Being someone who has swapped B11 engines into B12's before, I can tell you that you will run into a surprise when you go to hook up the heater core to block return hose [at the lower radiator to block area]. There will be no where for the smaller heater hose to connect. The metal fitting on the block needs to be changed to the B12 style fitting. You heat the block up [i.e. the immediate area around the water outlet] and twist it out with some big channel locks. Then obtain a new outlet fitting, Nissan part # 21045-50A05. I know you will try to yank out and reuse the fitting from your orig. engine, but trust me, you will destroy it getting it out. :p
As far as removing all of the vacuum solenoids for your hopeless chokeless carburetor, go ahead, but you will lose all of the auto idle speed controls, including the cold fast idle. A weber would be great, and you might have to make your own adapter plate. Oh, when you are cleaning off your used head, it is best to use a flat sanding board, like a body shop would use, with 180 grit [or finer]paper. This keeps the head flat, and you won't end up creating low spots, and rounding off all of the edges of the chamber and water passeges. , [like you would if you used those 2" abrasive discs on a die grinder, like butchers do] :eek: Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Actually, I finally listened to some good advice and went ahead and sent the head off to the machine shop. Told them to just lap the valves and get them to seat and seal properly. :) Anyways, I was planning on getting a T fitting for that water hookup, I noticed that difference right away. And for cleaning the head, I just used a razor blade and spent alot of time on it. ;) Thanks for the tips, they're much appreciated.
OH, and I got the good block into the good car today. Slid right into place, I was very impressed and pleased with it. Now I just have to figure out which brackets go where and start reassembling everything around it. ;)
 
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