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Discussion Starter #1
So I got the engine back in the car and drove it a very little bit before steam started coming from the area where the engine meets the tranny. I found out where the leak is coming from (the metal flange on the hose that runs coolant from the passenger side cyclinder head to the heater). The threads are damaged, but not destroyed in the aluminum head.

I have a couple of ideas of possible fixes and I do realize that the best fix would be to pull the engine back out drill and re-tap that part of the head.

And that is what I plan to do if one of these attempts don't work. Here are the other options that I can come up with.

Possibility A: use a self tapping bolt a size barley larger the the bolt that the hole was designed for and use high temp silicone to seal the flange and head together.

Possibility B: use the original bolt. Put epoxy on the threads as well as cake the epoxy all over where the flange and head meets. In an attempt so seal it up to a point that it will have to be removed with a chizel.

I personally like using the epoxy idea but I fear that the constant vibration may cause cracks throughout the epoxy causing the leak to return.

Does anyone else have any other ideas or think that one of these two are supreior to the other?

Thanks,
Josh
 

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Power FC Z32
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If you have long skinny fingers then it's possible but still a PITA. I suggest removal of the engine or maybe plenum removal....

My philosophy is do it right and do it well.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I deifnetly have the room to make a good seal with epoxy, and probably room to get a tap in there. There is obsouviously no room to drill the hole out before trying to rethread it. Do you have any experience using self tapping bolts? I believe that I have room to get adaquate force on the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I built and installed the motor myself. If I can't get this to work, with one attempt I will pull the engine. I am kind of dreading the thought of pulling the engine again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The way that I figure is attempt to do a decent half-ass fix for $20 and three hours of time on what I figure is around a 70% probability of fixing the problem. If/when it does fail spend the $150 of oils/filters/coolant/etc and 15 or so hours for me to partially pull the engine to get be able to give it a fix with 100% probability of fixing the problem.

I currently only have 4 to 5 in of room to work with.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the next size up bolt in a coarser thread and I was able to get it to bite into the aluminum head. I screwed in tight. I am pretty sure that will be a permanent fix. I'll find out Monday when I get a chance to reconnect all of the air, vacuum, and fuel lines.
 
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