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Concerns with CVT Transmissions in all Nissans

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78K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  Lambeau  
This is a big topic, so I'll try to boil it down a bit. No CVT from any manufacturer can be driven indefinitely without maintenance, and the biggest problem with Nissan CVT's is Nissan's maintenance recommendations. They're absurd, so forget the book. With regular fluid changes, there's nothing in a CVT to wear out, so they can pretty much be perpetual motion machines. With zero maintenance and a leadfoot driver, failure before 100K miles is pretty much guaranteed. That's because of a CVT's construction. It has a metal belt riding on metal pulleys with only fluid in between. So when the fluid wears out, metal meets metal and the tranny is cooked. Simple as that. With 30K changes we've literally seen one old Murano approach 500K miles, and it's still going even though the rest of the car is falling apart around it.

CVT's are also susceptible to failure from overfilling, so if you get your services done by others and don't DIY it, watch out for places that let oil-changers service CVT's. That's becoming increasingly common in these days of labor shortages, but simply dumping 5 quarts of fluid in after a change amounts to a CVT death sentence. Stick to professional technicians and not Jiffy Lube. If you DIY it, there are two perfectly good methods of getting the level right every time, and plenty of posts in here about how to do it. Past warranty, you can keep the cost of changes down by switching to a quality aftermarket fluid like AMSoil or Eneos. Both of those are equal or better than Nissan NS3 in all performance categories, but cost less than half.

Lastly, the other enemy of CVT fluid is heat. That can be from lead-footing, climbing steep hills regularly, or any sort of trailering. If any of those shoes fit, invest in an aftermarket trans cooler.

With all that said, when buying used, insist on records. If the previous owner went 60K or more with no transmission service on a 4-cyl CVT, or 80K or more on a 6-cyl, proceed to the next car. Here are a few other notes:
  1. The 6-cyl CVT's will absorb a lot more neglect and abuse than 4-cyls. That's a function of the smaller belt cross-section in the 4-bangers. While you might think the higher horsepower of a 6-cyl would make it more failure prone and not less, the reverse is true, at least in Nissans.
  2. Gen6 Altimas ('19~21') have beefier belts and we've seen very few problems with them. The Rogue is getting the same treatment for '22. Maximas and Muranos are pretty bulletproof in any year.
  3. Avoid '16~17 Altimas unless there are records that the Valve Body or entire trans has been replaced. The VB's on all '16's and early '17's had a problem with soft material.
  4. The Sentra, Versa and Note all have a hybridized CVT with planetary gears and a high-low range. That works well to keep excessive torque loading off the belt, but sacrifices longevity because the clutches in the planetary assembly will wear out like regular A/T clutches. Most of the non-heat-related tranny failures we see in those models are in the clutches and not the belt, but on the good side of the ledger, they tend to wear out at fairly high mileages like a regular A/T.
  5. Some Sentras, Versas, and Notes don't have transmission heat exchangers, and we see many heat-related failures in those. The exchanger is basically a system that dumps CVT heat into the radiator outlet tank, and it works extremely well provided the car's cooling system doesn't have issues. You can tell if an exchanger is present by how many hoses come out of the "beehive" on the front of the tranny. It's a device that looks just like an old beekeeper's box, and four hoses coming out of it means an exchanger is present. Two means it isn't. If not, invest in an aftermarket cooler and a 4-port hive immediately.
 
Get a good aftermarket warranty if you can. Buying a "pig in a poke" CVT is a crapshoot unless you can get a look at the fluid. If you can take the car to a mechanic you trust and get a small sample of fluid from the tranny, it will tell you immediately if there was maintenance done. For a '13~'15 it will be NS3 and will have started out turquoise. If it's slightly brown but still has color and has no bad smell, it was definitely maintained. If it still has color but smells varnishy, it had some maintenance but not the best. If it's all brown, particularly with a burnt or heavy varnish odor, it's been abused.
 
In addition, one thing you can do yourself is check it for "judder" on the test drive. Get the car on an uphill at 30 mph or so, drop the throttle momentarily, then roll the throttle gently back on until the tranny is "pulling" again. If you feel any jumpiness in the trans or the RPM's do anything quirky, the CVT belt is slipping and it has a problem.

One other thing a mechanic with a good scanner can do is see if there are self-diagnostic codes for judder in the trans controller (TCM). On a Nissan those are P1F70 and P1F71. The 70 is a "death code", the tranny is shot. The 71 can sometimes be cured by a fluid change but usually means replacing the Valve Body. The TCM also stores a record of any overheated fluid in two parameters called CVT-A and CVT-B. Both should read zero on a healthy trans.
 
Thank you VStar for taking the time to help thousands of Nissan owners. I have a habit for many years now of putting the transmission in Neutral when stopped for a long light or RRXing. I've never had any transmission issues in the past 30 yrs or so but I now have my first CVT in the 22 Rogue I bought. Is it harmful for me to continue my "habit" with this new Nissan CVT? I want to keep this Rogue a long time, like I have all my vehicles.
You're most welcome. Coasting in N with a CVT is a bad idea, but idling in N when stopped is fine. Just keep in mind that because of the way they're valved, most CVT's take 1~2 seconds to drop into D, especially when cold. Gassing it prematurely can be hard on the belt, so if you're used to doing a quick "shift-and-go" when the light changes, you might need to slightly modify your habit.