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Discussion Starter #1
Lately my truck has been stalling and loosing power. Usually restarts easily. One of the times the slip light came on and would stay on.

The only code I am getting is p1130 for engine signal.

I replaced a cam positioning sensor last year with a non OEM part (didn’t know any better). I’ve read that is a bad idea.

Can the non-OEM sensor be bad and possibly not throw a code? It would make sense that if it was acting up that P1130 is coming on maybe?

I’m thinking I’ll replace the CPS with OEM and see what happens.
 

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It could be a bad battery or a bad charging system.

A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. Get the battery tested at an auto parts store. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

The later-model vehicles have adopted what Nissan calls “power generation voltage variable controls.” This system monitors battery current and varies voltage to the regulator, reducing the load on the engine and resulting in better gas mileage. By varying the voltage to the alternator, engine load due to power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased. The battery current sensor is installed on the battery cable at the negative terminal. The battery current sensor detects the charging/discharging current of the battery and sends a voltage signal to the ECM according to the current value detected.

Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECM. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

If your truck is stalling and loosing power, the non-OEM sensor may be bad and possibly not throw a code; replace it with a new OEM component, also replace the crankshaft position sensor. When replacing electrical components such as alternators, starters and distributors, fuel injectors and sensors, always replace with new or reman'd Nissan OEM components; aftermarket components generally don't last long, don't work right and many times are DOA.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I changed the cam sensors with OEM. I had started getting a code for bank 1 passenger side yesterday. Man it’s tough sledding to replace that’s one.

I had cleaned my very corroded positive battery terminal and the 1109 and 1130 codes went away but I was still going into limp mode. I ordered a new terminal clamp to be safe since they are only $8. The fuse link looks good it’s just the part on Thebes post that is ate up.

So far so good. Going to go on a drive to see what happens.
 

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I had cleaned my very corroded positive battery terminal and the 1109 and 1130 codes went away but I was still going into limp mode. I ordered a new terminal clamp to be safe since they are only $8. The fuse link looks good it’s just the part on Thebes post that is ate up.
Craig,

Now that you've cleaned up the Battery Terminal, Put a Thick coating of Grease on the Clamp and Terminal to prevent future Corrosion.

Regards,
 
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