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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of modding my 200sx. I've owned it for only a year and some things have had to be replaced just to keep it running, now I'm in need of a clutch. I dont fully understand how the whole system works, but I need one fast and I want to get one that will perform better than stock, but not something built for some street racer. She's a daily driver, and I've got a heavy foot sometimes. So basically, I need to know exactly everything I need to get this done right the first time. I've searched to find out what I can but am still vague as to how everything works together. Input plz!!!!
 

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Have I Hit 12's Yet?
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ide get the ACT street/strip clutch. its basically a stock disk, with an upgraded ACT pressure plate. i used it on my turboed 1.6, and ive had friends use it on their all motor 1.6's, and they love it. its perfect for everyday driving, and can hold power when you need it to. you can find them at jgycustoms.com
 

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NotAnotherHonda said:
ide get the ACT street/strip clutch. its basically a stock disk, with an upgraded ACT pressure plate. i used it on my turboed 1.6, and ive had friends use it on their all motor 1.6's, and they love it. its perfect for everyday driving, and can hold power when you need it to. you can find them at jgycustoms.com
Well I looked and it is not clear which one you mean. Is it this....
for the mighty ga16de...
NX3-HD00 (heavy duty press plate with street disc)....$219

Thanks
 

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IanH said:
Well I looked and it is not clear which one you mean. Is it this....
for the mighty ga16de...
NX3-HD00 (heavy duty press plate with street disc)....$219

Thanks
yep thats the one
 

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Have I Hit 12's Yet?
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wes said:
There are mied feelings about the ACT clutch. While it holds the power it is also known for stretching clutch cables. Depending on your budget I would use the JWT clutch instead....

i agree. i never had any problems with it at all, but friends have. i chose to tell him about the ACT as opposed to the JWT because of the price and his driving style he uses. (he doesnt race much)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How bad is the clutch cable situation witht he ACT kit? I've just replaced the cable about a month or two ago after it snpped under the pedal, so I'd think it would be okay for a while. I'm on a college student's budget now, so I need to think smart financially, but I don't want to sacrifice the car for it.
 

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AirForce200 said:
How bad is the clutch cable situation witht he ACT kit? I've just replaced the cable about a month or two ago after it snpped under the pedal, so I'd think it would be okay for a while. I'm on a college student's budget now, so I need to think smart financially, but I don't want to sacrifice the car for it.
When I removed my ACT I had to replace the cable as it was so stretched that it could not be adjusted. The other down side is the increased pedal effort with the ACT. The JWT has just as much power holding ability and the pedal feels like stock!

I would research the cost of the JWT PP and using a stock disc. and I think it would be an ideal setup.

you can also search this topic as it has been discussed numerous times and other impressions have been given.
 

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JWT/ACT

Definetly go JWT for clutches (I would buy the JWT flywheel too and get both done while it's apart, this goes against the clutch inside the bell housing and helps add to accelleration)
ACT; mine lasted 16k mi, yes it was that one. It stretched the cable all over the place and then my shifting started to catch/grind but the tranny checked out, all clutch related, the stock is back in and is fine for daily driving. The ACT also required me to practically stand up off of the seat to depress it (I weigh 130 lbs) now thats a stiff pedal!
My knee replacements will be paid for by ACT at a time to be determined by my lawyer (heh, yeah right, buyer beware!).
 

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I have chimed in on this before but I'll put in my thoughts here as well. I have the act setup, I now have a stretched cable and the pedal effort is just too much for daily driving. Don't waste the money on the act kit. I'd be inclined to just keep with a stock setup since I have no mods. Even with minor mods I read that the stock setup is fine (even if you have a "heavy" foot). If you have the cash then go with the JWT it sounds great. I would reccomend that they resurface the flywheel while they are doing the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the input. I've never heard anything negative about JWT or their products, so I think I'm more inclined to go in that direction. As far as keeping the stock, no can do, it's going and it's going fast. If I can scramble up the cash, I think I'm going to go with a stock disc, JWT PP and flywheel. I'll be posting in the future to let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.
 

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jer28 said:
I have chimed in on this before but I'll put in my thoughts here as well. I have the act setup, I now have a stretched cable and the pedal effort is just too much for daily driving. Don't waste the money on the act kit. I'd be inclined to just keep with a stock setup since I have no mods. Even with minor mods I read that the stock setup is fine (even if you have a "heavy" foot). If you have the cash then go with the JWT it sounds great. I would reccomend that they resurface the flywheel while they are doing the clutch.
I am going to replace my clutch "soon" and want to keep it stock. First the car is not modified, and even if I do anything to it, it will be limited. Its old and getting beat up, using it for work.
My only concern is at this time the clutch is very weak, and slips if you do not engage it rapidly. This is the OEM clutch from new, and has been like this since before 50K miles (When I started to drive it every day.) and the car is over 70K now.
So is my OEM clutch a rarity, if the stock clutches are normally fine? Did they make some weak ones that were OEM and its fixed now?
Also does everyone here recommend a Nissan stock clutch or is aftermarket the same anyway, Autozone etc ?
Thanks Ian.
 

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Have you been the only owner? Reason I ask is because if you bought your car used then the previous owner could of had the clutch replaced at one point in time, posibly replacing it with the cheap parts that many garages use. Even though it seems early to have to replace a clutch before 50 K miles it is possible, it happened to a girl I know on another japanese brand of car. I would say if you resurface the flywheel and use a stock setup you will be fine, but I would do as much searching as you can to get as many opinions as you can and then weigh them to form your own decision.
 

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I've had the JWT clutch installed for over 2 years now, 1 year with turbo. This is the 'stage 1' clutch with the JWT pressure plate and stock disc.

I don't beat the crap out of it, but I've never had it slip, not even with 200 ft/lbs of torque.
I'd recommend getting a beefier clutch to anyone expecting that kind of power level, but it should show you how strong of a clutch it is.
 

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jer28 said:
Have you been the only owner? Reason I ask is because if you bought your car used then the previous owner could of had the clutch replaced at one point in time, posibly replacing it with the cheap parts that many garages use. Even though it seems early to have to replace a clutch before 50 K miles it is possible, it happened to a girl I know on another japanese brand of car. I would say if you resurface the flywheel and use a stock setup you will be fine, but I would do as much searching as you can to get as many opinions as you can and then weigh them to form your own decision.
Yes One owner from new.
Only drivers are wife and myself although the car was used by my son for a few weeks.
It clearly is not worn out, as it would have quit by now, and it will grab and spin the new tires if you just rev it up and give it gas and drop the clutch. Only did this once after a discussion on the forum, I was asked it it would hold under this condition.
What it will not do is hold if you slip it at all, when your foot is off the pedal the clutch just spins till you lift of the gas, then its ok.
So the cheap parts in this case are OEM !!!
 

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wes said:
Is your clutch cable adjusted properly?
Yes, afraid so....
Its creaking so need a new one soon.

wes said:
Honestly my stock clutch held up great even under conditions it shouldn't. I think you may have a bad clutch, or at least what your describing does not sound normal for a properly driven car.
Well I will go with a bad clutch then.
I learnt to drive stick and didn't have an Auto till I came to the USA.
On my old English cars I kept the clutch and swaped out engines, they would out last those old English 998 and 1100 cc engines that would only do 40,000 miles and then had greater than 0.030 bore wear.
My Legacy clutch lasted 135,000 and all other stick cars here have out lasted the clutch except this one, so I don't think it's me somehow.
So Wes to get back to the replacement question, I will stay stock, is there any reason to buy Nissan parts as opposed to stock aftermarket from Autozone, Pepboys, Rockauto, etc.
 

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IanH said:
Yes, afraid so....
Its creaking so need a new one soon.


Well I will go with a bad clutch then.
I learnt to drive stick and didn't have an Auto till I came to the USA.
On my old English cars I kept the clutch and swaped out engines, they would out last those old English 998 and 1100 cc engines that would only do 40,000 miles and then had greater than 0.030 bore wear.
My Legacy clutch lasted 135,000 and all other stick cars here have out lasted the clutch except this one, so I don't think it's me somehow.
So Wes to get back to the replacement question, I will stay stock, is there any reason to buy Nissan parts as opposed to stock aftermarket from Autozone, Pepboys, Rockauto, etc.
I would buy an OEM clutch rather than a parts store clutch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ordered the JWT PP, Stock disc, as well as the flywheel today. I also picked up a UR pulley to take some extra weight off the other end of the crank. will post w/the results.
 
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