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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Im the proud owner of a $300 89 nissan sentra. I got it a few months ago. After a few problems getting an inspection sticker on it due to the rust in the frame, I am finding that it will also need a new clutch.

Is it a very easy task to install a clutch in one of these vehicles? I have never done this kind of work before. Most of my auto repairs have been minor, I have replaced altenators, radiator's, hoses, belts, and brakes, but never anything major like dropping a tranny.

A clutch kit at advance cost about $100, Im trying to decide if its worth it to install on an old $300 car with 10 months left on its sticker. 166k miles, good engine, uses a little oil, about 2 quarts per 3,000 miles. No knocking or ticking though. I also do a lot of city driving. I have looked it over and it seems pretty easy to drop the trans, just loosen the bolts all around where it meets the engine. I should also add that this seems to be a stripped model, no AC, no power steering or anything like that. I thought it had a hydrolic clutch, but it seems to be cable.

I also plan to buy a haynes book with this clutch if I decide to do this for quick refrence.

-AC
 

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B12 Enthusiast
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844 Posts
personally I think these cars are pretty easy to change the clutch in. whether or not it is worth it, depends on what you plan to do with the car and how long you are going to keep it. If you are going to replace the clutch, I would suggest getting the flywheel cut and replacing the rear main oil seal on the motor while your in there. will ensure no leaks and a nice smooth operating clutch.

sounds like you are losing a lot of oil. while you are under there, you may want to check and see if your front oil seal isn't leaking ? it is a cheap fix, doesn't take a lot of time, and tends to be a common problem with these cars.

Definitely get the manual too.

Good Luck. :cheers:
 

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FWIW:

I got a couple of months more out of my clutch on my 88 Sentra (RIP)
by adjusting the clutch cable...

Buy the manual, To change the clutch on these- It is a pretty easy straightforward affair, can be done in the driveway with no special tools and only 1 jack. Oh, and a strong back.

However, if you start pouring $$$ into a car that you said had issues because of rust and 166k, and it sounds like you might be disturbing the frontend for the 1st time be prepared for, tie rod ends, struts, ball joints, new swaybar links & bushings...Oh and a wheel alignment. BTDT.
 

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B12 Enthusiast
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you can try adjusting it first, can't hurt anything at this point.

as far as replacing the clutch goes, it should not cause you to have to replace any components in the front end. The only thing you'll have to address after replacing it is getting the front end aligned, and if you mark the struts properly you may be able to get by without one if you are just using this vehicle as a second car and nor driving it alot. I didn't align my old car after I replaced the clutch and it was still ok. You don't even need to touch the ball joints or the sway bar to get the trany in and out, so all of that stuff should be fine. like i said in my first reply, I would replace the rear seal on the engine and possibly get the flywheel surfaced or else you may get some chatter when you pull out. :thumbup:
 

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Viva el iPod
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You might get a little life out of adjusting the clutch, but if your pedal doesn't feel that hard, you might still get some slippage. Also if you're replacing your clutch, you can check if your rear main seal is where your leak's coming from, and you can replace it (which you should if your replacing your clutch anyways.
 
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