i've noticed that whenever i turn, there's a clunking noise that seems to be coming from my passenger side front tire. it's more prominent when i turn right, but it happens on left turns as well. does anyone have a clue to what this is from? thanks.
clunking noise when turning
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probably the same problem i have to could be a bad cv joint is it more clicking or clunkingiceman said:
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i had the same noise, it was my CV joint.. don't wait too long to repair it or you might have to replace the whole CV axel like i did...
>Im almost 100% positive that it's a cv joint. You dont have to take it in to have it checked out! With your car parked, turn the wheel to the left as far as it will go. Put it in 'park'. Using a flashlight, look at the cv boot. You might catch a glare from the grease if theres a tear. Because the cv boot is black, you might not be able to see any grease. In this case, feel in between the folds (try using latex gloves. cv grease is a b*tch to clean off your hands) for tears. Be thorough like a good proctologist (butt doctor, in lamens terms).
>Some B14's are notorious for tearing up cv boots. Driving technique has a bit to do with the wear and tear. When driving, try not to turn the steering wheel to its max radius. This causes the inner part of the boot to rub against the axle joint.
>It took me about 20-30 minutes to replace one, however, I used a pneumatic ball joint spreader. It'll no doubt be extremely tough to do the job without one. Taking it in might be your best bet.
>Good luck and let us know how it turns out! :thumbup:
>Some B14's are notorious for tearing up cv boots. Driving technique has a bit to do with the wear and tear. When driving, try not to turn the steering wheel to its max radius. This causes the inner part of the boot to rub against the axle joint.
>It took me about 20-30 minutes to replace one, however, I used a pneumatic ball joint spreader. It'll no doubt be extremely tough to do the job without one. Taking it in might be your best bet.
>Good luck and let us know how it turns out! :thumbup:
From the sound of the axle (if thats what it is) the damage has already been done. A new boot will not fix it. I usually trade my old one in for a completly rebuilt one at a parts store.
There are other check you can do like jacking up one side of the car and wiggling up and down, then side to side. This checks the tie rod ends, balljoint, wheel bearings.
There are other check you can do like jacking up one side of the car and wiggling up and down, then side to side. This checks the tie rod ends, balljoint, wheel bearings.
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Most deffinitly the shaft is shot your better off just say to hell with it and replace it thats what i had to do yesterday that was a fun job i tel you :cheers:
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CV joint
I have the same problem and posted a similar question... it is the CV joint and chances are that the boot broke and allowed all that road gunk in and killed the joint... i have heard around 125 for the part and another 100-150 for labor... it is a pain to do without the right tools
iceman said:
I have the same problem and posted a similar question... it is the CV joint and chances are that the boot broke and allowed all that road gunk in and killed the joint... i have heard around 125 for the part and another 100-150 for labor... it is a pain to do without the right tools
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is that the price from the dealership??? because i have to go in for my 86,000 check up (or something like that) and i have the same problem, i want to know the price from nissan, if it is at all possible...can anybody help on the pricing???Johnjay7777 said:
125 for the part, and another 100-150 for labor.... is that for the boot replacement? or the joint. I've noticed my '96 doing it too at 108k. I can handle a 225 repair job. I was thinking it'd be much more.Johnjay7777 said:
I may as well take the car in and have the whole 9 yards done up on it. Bought a 24mo warrenty with the car, so we'll let the warrenty cover it and the airbag light that keeps blinking.
Zorak Out
infazorak said:
I paid $150 including part and labor for the half axle replacement(I dont know what it means)in a shop around here, and it is warrantied for 2 years. and there are ton of a people saying that the shops does great job So you better search around for shops, actually get the lowest price and call back the other shops back. That bsometimes works and they pricematch it
Now that's one expensive CV joint replacement!Johnjay7777 said:
Do they have to be "Nissan Original" or can you go for an aftermarket one? i replaced both sides of mine with some CV Joint aftermarket, which works like new for $25 each.... it's been 6 months by now and still works perfect... no clicking, no "loose feeling" at cv...
Clunking noise when turning could also be bearing
That noise could also be a wheel bearing or a loose tie rod end. Jack it up and try moving the wheel by hand to determine if there's any looseness or play. Also, the control arms can cause clunking sounds. I've had a bad wheel bearing and bad control arms with less than 50,000 miles on my 98 Sentra SE 2.0, and my CV joints are still good. By the way, autocrossing will tend to wear out front end components (ask me how I know).
Bill in San Diego
That noise could also be a wheel bearing or a loose tie rod end. Jack it up and try moving the wheel by hand to determine if there's any looseness or play. Also, the control arms can cause clunking sounds. I've had a bad wheel bearing and bad control arms with less than 50,000 miles on my 98 Sentra SE 2.0, and my CV joints are still good. By the way, autocrossing will tend to wear out front end components (ask me how I know).
Bill in San Diego
Went for a drive today to my parents' house. A good 40 minute drive with a few turns here and there. Not one "Clunk" or anything that couldn't be attributed to road conditions. Maybe I'm just paranoid and looking for something to be wrong with the thing.
Zorak Out
Zorak Out
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I just had my left cv done along with my clutch. Cv joint itself was only $70 and some change. Total would have been $200 approx. At least that is what they told me at the shop. One thing to keep in mind about that is that I live in the midwest and it was an import specialty shop. For a clutch pack install and a cv joint install it was $615 total. Although, no more clicking and it rides TIGHT now. As far as I can tell this is the first major work not related to an accident done to my b14 at approx. 147k miles.
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