Nissan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
kahoots said:
hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks


Needle-nose pliers.

Carefully turn your caliper piston so it retracts a bit. Allow just enough room to slip the caliper over the new pads and shims.


At least thats how the rear disk brakes are done. For the fronts I just use a wood block and compress the piston by hand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
kahoots said:
hey how would i be able to push the caliper back to its original position so i can fit my breaks pads inside. Whats the easiest way to do it since i dont have much tools with me. thanks
I always use a C clamp, you could probably do it by hand but its going to be a little tougher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.

Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,227 Posts
scooterbob said:
The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.

Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:
I use a C clamp, works on all cars I have owned ( from A to T) unless you have to rotate the piston like the SER rears. Of course you are careful not to use excessive force, the piston will slide back easily,
It cheaper and can be used for lots of stuff, available at home depot etc. No shipping.
If you are stuck and dont have your tools you can push the piston back before you remove the caliper from the rotor with a big'ish screw driver or somthing simular, lever the pads away from the disk. Yes you will damage the pads but they are to be replaced anyway.
Good luck.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
scooterbob said:
The easiest way I've found is to buy the correct tool for the job. The tool only costs about 8 or 9 bucks and is good for lots of cars, not just Nissans. Here's the link of the tool I have that you can pick up at almost any auto parts store. (it's the first tool in the list) http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdbrak07.html I find this tool is easiest to use if you leave one of the old brake shoes over the caliper piston and then use this tool to push the piston back in. This way it is less likely to get the piston cocked at an angle, and preventing unnecessary damage. Using a C-clamp can be risky because it can slip or put unnecessary stress in the wrong area, and possibly crack your caliper.

Easier to do it right the first time, especially with brakes. :thumbup:

Hey, nice link. :thumbup:

I personaly liked this tool over the others...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,124 Posts
i just jam a screw driver in there between the piston and pad and pry it back with leverage before i take the caliper off, but thats a beater car for ya
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
Like I said, with brakes it's easier to do it correct the first time. There is probably hundreds of other ways of doing it, ranging from pounding it with a rock :balls: to rolling over it with your buddies car. Pick one that's best for you.

Welcome for the link Sethticlees. I thought about the same tool also. Helps on the rear brakes I bet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
has any1 changed the rotors in the front? is it just as simple as taking off the calipers and the rotors come off or i gotta unscrew something?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
James said:
just remove the caliper and torque member bracket and tap on the sides of the disc and they'll loosen up and fall off
sorry but wat is torque member bracket?
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,227 Posts
kahoots said:
sorry but wat is torque member bracket?
This is the name given to the metal bracket that connects the caliper to the spindle assembly.
Don't worry it is attached to the caliper and you just remove the two bolts holding the assembly to the spindle. I have not heard of this piece being separate before but its always causing confusion here. Normally I would call this part of the caliper. It comes with the caliper if you get a rebuilt, no one seems to take it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads :p....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help :p thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again
 

·
in^3,N20,RPM,PSI
Joined
·
4,652 Posts
kahoots said:
thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads :p....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help :p thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again
maybe the caliper is sticking on one side. just replace the caliper, easier than rebuilding.

also, use some synthetic grease for the brakes... they sell it where you get the calipers (autozone, kragen, etc)
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,227 Posts
kahoots said:
wats the cost of a caliper?
When you push the piston back and fit the new pads the caliper will slide on the pins. Make sure the caliper moves even if a bit of resistance. But it must move.
It is somewhat normal for the passenger side to wear more from road dirt in the gutter.

I would say if its more than 2 or 3 mm different then you may have a caliper problem.
The piston is fine if the brakes work normally.
Only put grease on the parts that slide not on the pads friction surface and rotor. Sorry if you know that, just making sure.
If you need calipers I don't know how much the standard ones are.
2 loaded calipers with pads and new rotors for a larger brake upgrade (called ad22vf as in my Sig) runs about $220 with core charge.
try...http://www.rockauto.com/
Good Luck......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
842 Posts
kahoots said:
thanks everyone for the advice on changing the brake pads...my first experience changing brake pads :p....i got a final question...my old pads on the right side is down to like .2-.3 centimeters and on my left side is like a little less than half an inch...(sorry for the difference use of measurement, i was using a metric ruler for the right side and estimated the left side)..anyways i woulda had another 6-12 months on my left brake pad but my right gave out...does any1 know wat caused it..its probably the piston, if it is do u know how much the piston cost to change, (part and also in a shop). Thanks again for all your help :p thank you everyone. Oh yea another question, should i put the gel or lubricant or watever its called for the brakes so it wont squeak, i dont hear anything while test driving it...thanks again

Grease your caliper pins. That should solve the uneven ware on the brake pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
281 Posts
I thought you guys also have to bleed the brake lines? If you do what is bleeding the brake lines?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top