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Discussion Starter #1
I currently trying to rebuild or replace my current carburator, but I have no clue as to what model it is except for a barely visible "832" on one side. Maybe someone can give me some info?

Pictures:





 

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weber conversion
 

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Direct fit would be the Hitachi DCZ328 28/32 progressive
Has no electric feedback for sensor, has electric choke and works good,
no idle problems, factory setting CO2 1,5% +- 0,5 at idle.
Has ported vacuum tube for vacuum advance distributor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Alright, I got the weber in today. Obviously I'm to elimitate an amount of vacuum lines, but I would like to know which ones. I only see one fuel line hookup, and what looks like one ported vacuum. Also, in the first picture to the left of the engine is a large round cyndrilical thngy, what is it?

Most help would be editing the image I posted above with MS paint or something, but I'll take any help I can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Alright, I've tried my hand at this, but it feels like I'm missing some important stuff, and the engine still won't start.

Here's my MS paint edit of the vac diagram:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
intake manifold is just the one my E16 came with. Coolant where the carb mounts, about 3 temp vacuum switches... etc Distributor keeps getting referred to as "Crank angle sensor", but it's got a harness connector. Also, what is the single vacuum connector on the weber for? Emissions? Distributor advance? Carbon canister?

So at this point I'm going to guess distributor or fuel pump, but I really would like to get it right the first time than to flip a coin and hope it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Runs now, it's a DGEV. and now new problem(s).

When I start it, the engine races til I tap the accelerator, then it dies. The idle speed and idle mix have little to no effect on it, and it just idles erratically. Sounds like the timing is correct sometimes, incorrect others. Every few seconds something under the hood makes a spit sound, and the engine sometimes diesels for a minute or two after taking the key out of the ignition.
 

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have you put the recommended fuel pressure regulator inline to the carb?

when i installed a weber on my dad's '86 720 pickup, it ran like shit. i called weber hotline and they had put on a Holly fuel pressure regulator. it runs great now.
 

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Yeah, too much pressure from the electric fuel pump. I tried something else and works.
I switched off the elec. fuel pump so it can't suck fuel anymore, installed a mechanic fuel pump on the block and connected the tubings. The mechanical pump now sucks the fuel through the non-functioning elec. pump.
 

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hhmm, i'm glad you got it running better, just curious about the long term effects.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ugh, I've got the mechanical fuel pump on the block already. What pressure though? I hear of some putting 6-8lbs without damaging their weber.

Oh, and the engine runs stable now, but anything below 1500rpm and it still makes that spit noise and drops about 600 rpm every time it does it.
 

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Ugh, I've got the mechanical fuel pump on the block already. What pressure though? I hear of some putting 6-8lbs without damaging their weber.

Oh, and the engine runs stable now, but anything below 1500rpm and it still makes that spit noise and drops about 600 rpm every time it does it.
sounds like you still have too much pressure. if i remember right, its around 5lbs.
 

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sounds like you still have too much pressure. if i remember right, its around 5lbs.
3-4lbs maximum.
So the stock mechanical pump on the E16S motor is fine.
Although, I still have a problem taking sharp turns, which causes a stall out.
Course the mechanical pump surges fuel, so I think that's the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, I've learned that the plastic plate on the intake manifold is required for coolant to pass through the engine. (found out after an overheat on the test drive) There are no junk yards around here that bother with vehicles this old, and nissan wanted $300 for this part. So instead of needlessly shelling out $300 for a piece of plastic that seemed to leak on my old carb in the first place, I made one out of steel of the same thickness. Now i don't even have to worry about modifying the barrel size of a used one if i were to find a junkyard one. Another issue with mounting this carburator, is that the bottom adaptor plate has tapered holes for their own bolts. I fixed this by taking my rotary and allowing enough room for a nut, using the two bolts from the old carb that had to go up from the bottom.

The carb is now properly mounted and has a generic low fuel pressure regulator attached. But the engine still doesn't run properly. After connecting a timing gun, I find that my timing is being changed on me, so moving the distributor has little to no effect. If I disconnect the harness, I can't even get a spark. Hopefully a vacuum advance distributor from an E15 will solve this.

Also, does anyone know what size of bolt I need to plug off the air injection pipe?
 
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