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Discussion Starter #1
Problem:

1. Won't Start but it's cranking.
2. Pulled out #1 plug and there was no spark.
3. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the CAP and no spark either.
4. Changed the Ignition coil and test it again but was the same problem, No spark.
5. I've spare ECU and pulled out the old one and plugged in the new one but got the same issue. Didn't start or even no spark either.
6. Based on the haynes manual, I've tired performing the diagnostic but there was no indication of light in the LED's. No response when the ignition was turned on.
7.I checked for busted fuses but I couldn't find something that related to ignition.
8.Pulled out the distributor assembly and tried replacing it with my spare but didn't do any improvements. Still no spark!!!

I would really appreciate it if you could provide me some of your expertise on this z-car issues.

Thanks and looking forward for any of your HELP....

Regards,
JR
 

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JR88ZEDXT said:
Where's the ECU fuse? I didn't find it in the Fuse panel. Is it in the ECU itself?
Should be there behind the driver side kick panel. 10 amp fuse located towards the top of the back column (closest to the firewall).
 

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I had the same problem. the ing module (the transator) that is right beside the coil. If it goes bad you dont have spark at all. Had to replace paid bill and half for one from niss house. Maybe that will help you a little.
 

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The thing that tips me off here is he says the ECU blinky lights don't light up when put in diag mode. I'm thinking it's the ecu fuse for just that reason.
 

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Hey, I have the same exact problem!!! My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now. We can't figure it out!! Did you find a solution to your problem?? Can you tell me please!!! would really appreciate it! Need my car back badly!! But don't want to bring it into a shop who will charge an arm and a leg, plus towing.

Thanks
 

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Not sure of the question here. Have you tried everything that was suggested already in this thread? You need to tell me exactly what is going on. Does the car crank over? Can you hear the fuel pump? Have you tried an ECU diagnostic? Have you eyeballed the timing belt, to make sure it is not broken? It's not enough to simply look at it, you must verify that it moves when the engine is turned over. There are many problems that can cause a no-start no-run condition. We need to narrow it down.
 

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OK, here is what I've done so far, pretty much all that this thread has done.


-Checked timing belt (just recently changed all belts and timed 2 months ago)
-Checked plugs (new plugs about 6 months ago)
-checked wires (racing wires changed 1 yr ago)
-checked fuel pump (changed 2 yrs ago, but still pumping)
-checked distributor cap (about to replace whole distributor but not if this thread tried that already and didn't help)
-checked/replaced ignition coil with another stock one


Turns over, doesn't fire. Everything sounds healthy while turning over???

Don't know what it could be?? unless it is the ECU fuse or whatever this thread was suggesting. I just want to know if it worked for this person? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

Miss my car ;(
 

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rustyholtzen said:
I had the same problem. the ing module (the transator) that is right beside the coil. If it goes bad you dont have spark at all. Had to replace paid bill and half for one from niss house. Maybe that will help you a little.

do you mean the Power Transistor? I looked it up on the FSM... I will try that tomorrow. Let me know.

Could it be the EFI relay? Just a guess.


Thanks
 

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Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, there were no 1986 nissan 300zx turbos, but I pulled one off a 1988 but they have different part numbers. Would this make a difference? I don't want to try it untill I find out. Im calling my tech guy here, and waiting for his call as well. The part numbers are as follows:


1986: 22020-12p11
1988: 22020-28p10

Dont want to fry my engine....

Any help would be great!
 

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nambino said:
Ok, so I went to get a used Power Transistor just to see if that would be the problem, there were no 1986 nissan 300zx turbos, but I pulled one off a 1988 but they have different part numbers. Would this make a difference? I don't want to try it untill I find out. Im calling my tech guy here, and waiting for his call as well. The part numbers are as follows:


1986: 22020-12p11
1988: 22020-28p10

Dont want to fry my engine....

Any help would be great!
If it plugs in, it will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
FUSIBLE LINKS

nambino said:
Hey, I have the same exact problem!!! My 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now. We can't figure it out!! Did you find a solution to your problem?? Can you tell me please!!! would really appreciate it! Need my car back badly!! But don't want to bring it into a shop who will charge an arm and a leg, plus towing.

Thanks
After many months that I've seeking for help and suggestion from people but unfortunately, I didn't get much feedback for them so I figure that I just troubleshoot on my own.

I got it start that there's still a problem at this time and it's so difficult to trace the problem. Before you start pulling and changing out parts, first you want to check are the "FUSIBLE LINK". These are located close to the battery area. Use a test light to see if all your links are okay. I found one in mine that there was no contact what so ever. I pulled it out and replaced it then the "ENGINE STARTER" to fire up. So with the time I invested checking all the things I've mentioned before was not even the culprit. Right now, I still have a problem because the car would start but the that fusible link that I found to be the problem is melting then engine will stop. I hope your problem is just the "FUSIBLE LINK" and no short circuit whatsoever.

Goodluck and let me know....

[email protected]
 

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A fusible link melting is an unusual circumstance, and generally means there are other problems, probably in the starter wiring, or major work was done to the car with the battery connected.
 

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I appreciate all the help on this forum, it's hard to imagine life without these forums. I guess we would all still be bringing our cars into shops who charge an arm and a leg, and they don't really tell you what was wrong with it. I think my brother (mechanic) already checked all Fusible Links, and he didn't mention if they were out, so hopefully I will try this other Power Transistor and see if it works. I'll let you guys know, JR thanks for all your input, I hope it's not the Fusible link so that I can fix the car by this weekend, otherwise I will have to check the links again and try to find replacements.

Cross my fingers!!
 

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Well, the new Power Transistor didn't help. Still the same problem. We checked the Fusible link as well, and there is power. So the only thing we haven't "Changed" is the Distributor. So looks like I will have to go and try to change that up.

JR if you are reading this, how much did you get ur distributor for? and where? I talked to Nissan themselves, and they say there are no "new" ones in North America. I would have to special order parts from Japan.

This would cost an arm and a leg. I tried looking for used ones, but selection is limited here in Canada.

Let me know, im trying to get my car running, before winter at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Distributor Assembly

Well! I got mine from one of the guys in the ZCLUB 6months ago and paid $250 CAD. I checked the delear and I was told that it's $650 plus taxes which was way too much on my budget. I decided to buy this used one because my car has been sitting for almost a year next month. Check my first posting about this problem, I've been working on it months and I finally got it started yesterday. Just to let you know, I'm not a mechanic and not formal experience on cars. I just know some basic stuff but it took me many almost a year to figure it out. In my orignal posting, I've tried everything including swapping the distributor assembly but it didn't help at all so I kept my orginal distributor assembly. I aslo bought a used power transistor and ECU before just to test if this were the culprits but didn't do any good.

Now, I'm putting it back all together since it started yesterday and just to do major tune up since it was sitting for almost a year.

By the way, the problem I had why it one of the fusible link was melting; there was a short circuit in the connetor of the orange relay (Safety relay). I openned up all the wiring harnesses all the way to the ECU to the injectors and the starter but I finally found that the RED wire from this connecter was pinched by a metal clamp bolted on the engine. It was a pain and time consume process to diagnosed this problem..

Where are you from in Canada? I live in Scarborough...Feel free to email me if there's anything you think I can help...

[email protected]
(416)448-2220 Work

Goodluck!!!








nambino said:
Well, the new Power Transistor didn't help. Still the same problem. We checked the Fusible link as well, and there is power. So the only thing we haven't "Changed" is the Distributor. So looks like I will have to go and try to change that up.

JR if you are reading this, how much did you get ur distributor for? and where? I talked to Nissan themselves, and they say there are no "new" ones in North America. I would have to special order parts from Japan.

This would cost an arm and a leg. I tried looking for used ones, but selection is limited here in Canada.

Let me know, im trying to get my car running, before winter at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Zen31ZR said:
A fusible link melting is an unusual circumstance, and generally means there are other problems, probably in the starter wiring, or major work was done to the car with the battery connected.


Fusible that's melting means that there's a short circuit somewhere and definitely not in the starter..There was no major work done to the car, it just stopped running.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nambino,

How are things with your "Z"? Have you figure out the problem? Have you check the "MAIN RELAY"? I was told by one by my mechanic friend that work at Nissan that when this part goes out; you won't be able to start the car or even get a spark at all.

Try to check the "FSM", should be mounted on the right fender area by the battery..

Goodluck.





JR88ZEDXT said:
Well! I got mine from one of the guys in the ZCLUB 6months ago and paid $250 CAD. I checked the delear and I was told that it's $650 plus taxes which was way too much on my budget. I decided to buy this used one because my car has been sitting for almost a year next month. Check my first posting about this problem, I've been working on it months and I finally got it started yesterday. Just to let you know, I'm not a mechanic and not formal experience on cars. I just know some basic stuff but it took me many almost a year to figure it out. In my orignal posting, I've tried everything including swapping the distributor assembly but it didn't help at all so I kept my orginal distributor assembly. I aslo bought a used power transistor and ECU before just to test if this were the culprits but didn't do any good.

Now, I'm putting it back all together since it started yesterday and just to do major tune up since it was sitting for almost a year.

By the way, the problem I had why it one of the fusible link was melting; there was a short circuit in the connetor of the orange relay (Safety relay). I openned up all the wiring harnesses all the way to the ECU to the injectors and the starter but I finally found that the RED wire from this connecter was pinched by a metal clamp bolted on the engine. It was a pain and time consume process to diagnosed this problem..

Where are you from in Canada? I live in Scarborough...Feel free to email me if there's anything you think I can help...

[email protected]
(416)448-2220 Work

Goodluck!!!
 

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JR88ZEDXT said:
After many months that I've seeking for help and suggestion from people but unfortunately, I didn't get much feedback for them so I figure that I just troubleshoot on my own.

I got it start that there's still a problem at this time and it's so difficult to trace the problem. Before you start pulling and changing out parts, first you want to check are the "FUSIBLE LINK". These are located close to the battery area. Use a test light to see if all your links are okay. I found one in mine that there was no contact what so ever. I pulled it out and replaced it then the "ENGINE STARTER" to fire up. So with the time I invested checking all the things I've mentioned before was not even the culprit. Right now, I still have a problem because the car would start but the that fusible link that I found to be the problem is melting then engine will stop. I hope your problem is just the "FUSIBLE LINK" and no short circuit whatsoever.

Goodluck and let me know....

[email protected]

hey man i have a very good suggestion for you as I am going through the same problem at this time. Go to the local parts store and buy a 20 amp circuit breaker... It will run for the time being and save you from going though multiple fusible links until you figure out the wiring problem. if you put the battery cable on and it jolts and lets out a poof of smoke your wiring is still bad.
p.s If the car stops its because the circuit breaker got to hot, but when it cools it should restart.... it is a great way to mess with it or get it to a wiring professional
 
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