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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car runs fine without the sensor plugged in but when it's plugged in it will not start, it turns over catches and dies immediately.

how far do I have the cut back the wires to check? All the way through the wiring harness or just the wires that come off the harness and into the camshaft sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have recently purchased 3, 2 aftermarket and 1 oem camshaft sensor and they all have done the same thing though (there's no way all 3 were bad out of the box, could there be?). And I did recently just install a new oem crank sensor. It's really becoming a money Pitt. Could the reluctor ring just be so full of crap it's confusing the sensor while its trying to do its job?

or more so, could the ring be damaged? The car seems to run fine without any weird sounds so I assume pieces of metals aren't flying aroundin there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
But I've tried 3 different sensors and they all acted the same, even oem camshaft one from Nissan. So if the ring isn't dirty i dont know what to do next. I don't really want to buy another new oem CMP when I just got the Nissan one..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
there not in order but is the correct way? On the first picture when it says to check voltage am I grounding anywhere or somewhere specific? I'll do the testing but when I put the sea-foam into the crankcase I noticed it seemed to want to start a little easier, possibly it was cleaning the Ring? Lol who knows I'm at loss now.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First 2 steps I got right around 5v. I'm confused on the second part.

I have the pins in the GY and BR and the key ON, I touching the GY one with the BR or the ground?
And what about the BR one, am I using that pin in that one and touching the ground?

Sorry I need to work on my wiring diagnostic skills
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ah alright I understand that, Thank you. I will get that done asap and let you know, is there a specific reading that's good or bad? Less than 5v?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I will do the testing today. Just FYI i'm not a big fan of wiring, it's confuses me. Replacing parts and test other misc parts is easy for me but having to do in depth is like a run a round for me.

I just watched a video with a guy doing a 3 connector cam sensor test, he plugged it in outside of the car and and back probed the GROUND and signal wire and started cranking the car, is this correct?
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I really appreciate your time doing this and explaining everything, not just laughing. I was never taught to do much wiring so I'm learning right now lol.

There is another thing that confuses me. Even if it has issues starting cold If say I do get it up to normal temp and drive around I can shut it off and it will restart perfectly, with the same connector plug into the sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Edit: I did the accelerator pedal release and the throetlttlw body set by doing key on and off for multiple seconds following the video.
So I was just out messing around with it. It cranks and catches and dies, but then I can try again and it almost dies and I catch it with the gas pedal feathering it and it revs up to 2-3k and the settles down normal. Should I do the Throtfls body relearn and accelerator pedal procedure for sh*ts and giggles?
But once it does get running it sounds perfect, runs great sounds good, throttle response is good. Could the electronic TB be out of whack maybe needing a relearn?

Oh man, I really hope there's no broken wire hidden in the harness :(

Is it possible to clean the reluctor ring with like a Qtip or something?

i have one more oem Nissan CMP on the way, and I pray that fixes it because I'm not liking this car very much right now lol!

Thank you so much for trying to help me, and I'm sorry if I'm frustrating you with this. I'm an extremely big dummy when it comes to wires and testing
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yup, I just did both of those. The car is at operating temp now. When it cools down I'll go out and try to start it. And I do have another oem CMP on the way as well I'll install when I get it. I know it's a broken record but I can't thank you enough for giving me tips.

I'll post back if it's still doing the issues later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I did the IAVL and no luck. Still same thing.

how do I disconnect the ecm harness connector? It says to check continuity between terminal 2 (on the sensor itself?) and ECM terminal 63.

-continuity should exist it says.

then check terminal 3 to ECM terminal 65 and same thing.

-continuity should exist. If it doesn't that means there's a break somewhere in the wire right?

I'm confused what it means by checking harness for short to ground and short to power. If all checks out it says to:
Check and remove any debris from signal plate( reluctor ring). How would I do that without having to rip the whole cylinder head off I don't have a place to really work on it, beside my apartment parking lot and they're already giving me the bug eye for doing what I'm doing.
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So can I set the multimeter for continuity with the sound and touch from camshaft connector to R pin 3 phase wire to the ECM pin 65 To verify there’s no break? Lol once this is all said and done I’m going to read up on a bunch of electrical stuff for learning, this is embarrassing For me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
if say there is a break in one of the wires to the ECM, can I just run A new wire directly from cam sensor connector to ecm with a new pin? I’d rather not have to dig through the wiring harness, I’m just trying to get this up and running for a little longer, the previous owner just destroyed (as in no maintenance ever) it And I’m trying to fix all the problems I can daily it for a little while longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Ok I will try to do this when I get off work! Might fail because I'm a dummy with electrical but damn it I'm going to try!

thanks, I'll probably respond later with some dumb question, so be on the look out! Haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
How do I know which connector on the ECM has the camshaft sensor wire? I didn’t see any numbers correlating to the sensor, liken pin 63, 63 etc. Have I told you how much I hate wiring? lol…

and at this point, I’m getting zero codes… if I get any I’ll report back.

edit: when the car is starting it looks to the cam sensor, crank sensor, maf and coolant temp sensor right?

also when it did start with the sensor unplugged I let it fully warm up. Had plugged the sensor in andshut it down. It restarted without any any issues at all.....for whatever reason it does not like cold starts

could the electronic TB be involved with the start up?
Or the accelerator pedal sensor? I’m super frustrated about this
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Alright so the cam sensor wires will be in that connector? (I replaced the maf which is combined with the IAT). I'm going to swap my old OEM maf in today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I think I have an issue with the fuel pump causing these problems. I can only hear it prime sometimes when I turn the key on, not every single time. The times I can hear it, it wants to start up and run but dies quickly. It's a old fuel pump with many miles, I think I'm going to try and replace it for the heck of it. If it solves the problem, hey that's great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I was listening to it, when it starts and surges the pump sounds like it's not being able to provide the power needed. And i can only hear it "prime" 1 out of like 5 key turns. I'll turn key and then off, try again and nothing, same for couple more times and then I hear it and it seems like it wants to start
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I hve a pump arriving tomorrow, what's the easy way to remove the lock ring on the pump top? I don't have a Special tool for it, do you know which one works I could buy?
 
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