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meangreen200sx said:
is this the camber thing to keep your car alligned right? click here to see
Or you can do it the quick and dirty way, at least on the B13s, and use the Kojima Poor Boy Method Camber Adjustment:
http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/suspension.php#How%20to%20adjust%20your%20suspension

If you are on a tight budget and cannot afford camber plates, you can use The Poor Boy Method for adjustable camber! To make poor boy adjustable camber, you can drill out one of the two strut to spindle bolt holes on the strut housing by about 1/16" This will get you a couple of degrees of camber adjustment. Camber bolts or crash bolts as they are sometimes called should not be used as they slip under high load. If you are racing Solo II stock class or Showroom stock and don’t want to cheat, you can get about ½ degree more negative camber by loosening all of the suspension bolts and having someone hold the wheel in the negative position while you retighten everything. When adjusting camber, be sure to reset your toe adjustment as it will also change when you adjust camber.

Regards,
Michael
 

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Boxed Fox
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MShorten said:
Or you can do it the quick and dirty way, at least on the B13s, and use the Kojima Poor Boy Method Camber Adjustment:
http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/suspension.php#How%20to%20adjust%20your%20suspension

If you are on a tight budget and cannot afford camber plates, you can use The Poor Boy Method for adjustable camber! To make poor boy adjustable camber, you can drill out one of the two strut to spindle bolt holes on the strut housing by about 1/16" This will get you a couple of degrees of camber adjustment. Camber bolts or crash bolts as they are sometimes called should not be used as they slip under high load. If you are racing Solo II stock class or Showroom stock and don’t want to cheat, you can get about ½ degree more negative camber by loosening all of the suspension bolts and having someone hold the wheel in the negative position while you retighten everything. When adjusting camber, be sure to reset your toe adjustment as it will also change when you adjust camber.

Regards,
Michael
Those methods are ok, but they slip really way too easily on the street. The retightening the suspension bolts while holding the wheel at negative camber method is especially prone to slipping back, as I've discovered firsthand. Camber bolts might slip if you hit curbs at racing speeds, but the Eibach ones seem to hold up pretty well on the street.
 

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ReVerm said:
Those methods are ok, but they slip really way too easily on the street. The retightening the suspension bolts while holding the wheel at negative camber method is especially prone to slipping back, as I've discovered firsthand. Camber bolts might slip if you hit curbs at racing speeds, but the Eibach ones seem to hold up pretty well on the street.
Hmm, thinking about the stresses during short track left turns - no curbs but a lot of stresses on the right side.

Guess it's time to do a search and see who else is talking about camber adjustments and the pro's/con's - thanks for the tip!

Regards,
Michael
 

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MShorten said:
Hmm, thinking about the stresses during short track left turns - no curbs but a lot of stresses on the right side.

Guess it's time to do a search and see who else is talking about camber adjustments and the pro's/con's - thanks for the tip!

Regards,
Michael
There actually is another "poor boy" method that's pretty popular in some circles. It involves elongating the strut mounting holes on the chassis, aligning the camber to your liking, then welding steel washers in place to keep the strut aligned. It basically is like a cheap, half-assed implementation of camber plates.

The problem with this one is that it's hard/expensive to undo (with the other methods you can just buy new hubs/spindles or loosen all the bolts or push the alignment back to the way it was). Probably not the kind of thing a lot of you would want to do, but it's worth a look, even if it's just for entertainment value.
 
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