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I have recently done the conversion on my Pulsar here in Australia. I do belive the Pulsars you have over there are what we call an Exa here but they are exactly the same chassis wise just the body is different.

The engine will go in no dramas. Both the FWD and RWD CA18's can be fitted however the RWD version needs the throttle body moved to the other end of the plenum. This is easy as its only 4 bolts and a blanking plate for the other end which is already on the plenum. The only mods I would recommend for the engine is getting a custom rear engine mount made up to eliminate the kick the engine has due to the extra torque.

The standard CA18DET computer is really good and can handle upto 14psi of boost before the factory boost cut kicks in. I am still using an unmodified computer and have 200hp/ 150kw at the wheels. However an aftermarket computer can get more benefit out of any mods to the motor.

A 600mm x300mm x76mm intercooler will fit behind the front bar with minor mods to the bar itself. For the small turbo run no bigger than 2 1/2 inch piping for the intake.

Exhuast wise a 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent system with Hi flowed metal cat and straight through rear muffler will net the best results and being a turbo ar the exhaust wont be overly load as the turbo does a brilliant job of muffling the sound by itself.

Before putting the motor in I suggest a minimum of a compression test and new timing belt along with a good thorough service. The compression test will let you know if there is anything wrong with the motor before it goes in so you can do a rebuild if necessary without pulling the motor back out again.
Just be aware that the standard head gasket wont take any more than 15psi boost without blowing.

Here is a list of the mods done to my car to get the 200hp at the wheels:

Stock CA18DET motor, stock computer,

600mm x300mm x76mm FMIC with 2 1/2 inch piping,

Garret GT2860R dual ball bearing turbo charger with .63 rear housing
12 psi boost,

Pod filter with custom cold air induction setup,

2 1/2 inch mandrel bent straight through exhaust from the turbo with Hi flow metal cat and resonator
(Alot of R&D went into this with 4 different setups on the car to get the right combo for boost response and power).

Thats about all I can think of. I have been running this combo for about 2 years now with no problems at all.
200hp is a very easy target to reach with this motor in fairly stock form. Over here this is a slightly above average power rating for a converted pulsar. We have some up around the 280hp mark and one making roughly 400hp.

I hope this helps and if you have any questions I'll try to answer them the best I can.
Bob.
 

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I have recently done the conversion on my Pulsar here in Australia. I do belive the Pulsars you have over there are what we call an Exa here but they are exactly the same chassis wise just the body is different.

The engine will go in no dramas. Both the FWD and RWD CA18's can be fitted however the RWD version needs the throttle body moved to the other end of the plenum. This is easy as its only 4 bolts and a blanking plate for the other end which is already on the plenum. The only mods I would recommend for the engine is getting a custom rear engine mount made up to eliminate the kick the engine has due to the extra torque.

The standard CA18DET computer is really good and can handle upto 14psi of boost before the factory boost cut kicks in. I am still using an unmodified computer and have 200hp/ 150kw at the wheels. However an aftermarket computer can get more benefit out of any mods to the motor.

A 600mm x300mm x76mm intercooler will fit behind the front bar with minor mods to the bar itself. For the small turbo run no bigger than 2 1/2 inch piping for the intake.

Exhuast wise a 2 1/2 inch mandrel bent system with Hi flowed metal cat and straight through rear muffler will net the best results and being a turbo ar the exhaust wont be overly load as the turbo does a brilliant job of muffling the sound by itself.

Before putting the motor in I suggest a minimum of a compression test and new timing belt along with a good thorough service. The compression test will let you know if there is anything wrong with the motor before it goes in so you can do a rebuild if necessary without pulling the motor back out again.
Just be aware that the standard head gasket wont take any more than 15psi boost without blowing.

Here is a list of the mods done to my car to get the 200hp at the wheels:

Stock CA18DET motor, stock computer,

600mm x300mm x76mm FMIC with 2 1/2 inch piping,

Garret GT2860R dual ball bearing turbo charger with .63 rear housing
12 psi boost,

Pod filter with custom cold air induction setup,

2 1/2 inch mandrel bent straight through exhaust from the turbo with Hi flow metal cat and resonator
(Alot of R&D went into this with 4 different setups on the car to get the right combo for boost response and power).

Thats about all I can think of. I have been running this combo for about 2 years now with no problems at all.
200hp is a very easy target to reach with this motor in fairly stock form. Over here this is a slightly above average power rating for a converted pulsar. We have some up around the 280hp mark and one making roughly 400hp.

I hope this helps and if you have any questions I'll try to answer them the best I can.
Bob.
that is amazing...thanks for the great help and info. I will be using this on my pulsar or at least as a start for mine
 

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Discussion Starter #25
just a question but is there a smaller intercool that i can use? i need sized i only want one that i can hide nicely behind my stock bumper
 

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You can use any sized intercooler you want.
The best size would be around 440mm x280mm. With this lag wont be as much but you will still get the intake charge cooled more than enough. I used the 600 x 300mm I/C cause I got it cheap off a mate but I needed to cut my front bumper to fit it. With the smaller cooler you should not need to do this. You could even get a CryO2 system fitted for the ultimate in cooling. This is my next mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You can use any sized intercooler you want.
The best size would be around 440mm x280mm. With this lag wont be as much but you will still get the intake charge cooled more than enough. I used the 600 x 300mm I/C cause I got it cheap off a mate but I needed to cut my front bumper to fit it. With the smaller cooler you should not need to do this. You could even get a CryO2 system fitted for the ultimate in cooling. This is my next mod.
u wouldnt happen to have any papper to show how much hp ur cars running would u?
 

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Not in Hp. The car is going in shortly for a tune and dyno run so I will post it up when I get it.
Last tune was 150Kw at the wheels which converted to Hp is a little over 200 at the wheels.

Iam going to get a nisspro computer soon, which is a standard computer that has been modified with a new motherboard that is fully programable essentually turning a stock computer into an aftermarket type system. As you may know the stock computers cannot be hacked into and have very limited tunning parameters. Nisspro is the only comany that can successfully do this. The best thing about it is unlike most aftermarket ecu's, the nisspro item keeps ALL sensors and factory failsafes but can bypass the boost cut, modify rev limiter and bypass the fuel cut.
The computer is also half the price of an aftermarket ECU and installation is simply plug it in as the computer comes with a standard tune already loaded then its just dyno run and modify the tune from there.

I anticipate a healthy jump of about 30 - 50 kw from this alone bringing HP up to around 260 - 300 at the wheels. all for around 600 dollars AUST.
 
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