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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was doing a brake job and I broke the bolt on the passenger side caliper bracket. I am not sure on the technical term but it is the bracket that bolts to the steering knuckle and holds the caliper.

I have a set of not-so-hot easy outs but that doesn't even matter because I couldn't get a normal drill bit to do any damage to the bolt. Do you think it is worth my time and $$ to pick up some cobalt bits and good easy outs or just bring it in somewhere?

Also, is it possible to remove the steering knuckle with this bracket (therefore the rotor) still attached? The spring didn't seem too tight, do you need to have a set of spring compressors on it?
 

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Cone Dodger
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the bracket to knuckle bolt broke the head off? if the head came off, you might be able to slide off the bracket with the other one screwed out after removing the caliper. for the caliper, just undo the lower pin bolt, flip the caliper up and slide off from the top pin.
 

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Did it shear flush with the caliper or the steering knuckle? Maybe you can pull the other bolt out of the caliper to knuckle bracket then get some vise grips on the rest of the broken bolt, otherwise pull the knuckle as described earlier
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep, the bottom bolt comes out, but I didn't know if the bracket was threaded too or if it was just the steering knuckle. That is good if it is just the knuckle that is threaded because it would be a lot easier to get a bolt out or vise grips on the outside of the bolt rather than trying to drill it out with an easy-out.

I will try to get the bracket off one of these days and I will let ya'll know how it goes! Thanks for your input!

Any input on where to get the new bolt though? I am going to try local hardware stores first, but they usually don't have the right thing I want...
 

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Usually the caliper is not threaded, just the steering knuckle, that's why they have a torque value. As far as a new bolt, When you pull the other one out, the one that didn't break, from the caliper to knuckle, take that one down to Auto-Zone or Kragen or what ever your local auto parts store may be. They will be able to set you up with a new bolt. On something like that though, if you're replacing one, I would get a new set so... but that's up to you. Good luck.
 

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BTW, another thing you may want to keep in mind is when you pull the other bolt off, you will have to try to pop one if not both of the brake pads off in order to allow for the caliper to move against the rotor. shouldn't be too difficult but if you get snagged, try compressing the caliper then taking the pad(s) off.
 

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If you have to drill ans easy out it I would put some heat to it first before trying the extraction it will make things move much easier....
 

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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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Well the torque plate comes off, so you can work on this off the car

you can see the two bolts to the left of the caliper attaching bolts, these hold the torque plate on to the steering knuckle.
I assume you broke the caliper attaching bolt shown above.
Don't damage this torque plate as it cant be purchased separately.
Make sure you get the same grade of bolt, not a Home depot no grade or grade 2 bolt.
I suspect this is a grade 8, this is your brakes we are talking about here !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you guys so much for the input! I assumed the knuckle was threaded but here everything was just so rusted together it just seemed that way. As you guys pointed out it is the torque plate (what I called 'the bracket' earlier) that is threaded and it makes a sandwich of the knuckle. I thought it was kind of funny to call it a knuckle sandwich when I was explaining it to my dad, haha.

Anyway, after some gentle but firm blows with the hammer I got the torque plate and rotor off, then soaked the bolt with penetrating oil, and finally used a bolt-out and got the stub out. I am going to drop the rotors off and try to get a new bolt at an auto store tomorrow.

Thanks again!!
 

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like that guy said, home depot bolts suck. but if you still want cheap good ones, Lowe's always has a minimal stock of grade 8 bolts.
when Lowe's started out they were more mechanically inclined than Home Depot.

i've never had a problem with any Lowe's bolt.
just make sure it's the shiny chromesteel grade 8 kind.

as far as internal engine bolts though, dealership bolts are the best because torque values are gained by literally stretching the bolt.
that's why some get new bolts every time they are doing internals.

i definetly suggest that. nothing worse than having to extract bolts on the inside being careful not to get any shavings in the engine.
 
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