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Destroyer of worlds.
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
alright, as some might know, my brakes have been feeling weak as of late. well i just notice that one of the rear rotors is rusty, this indicates that the pads are not making proper contact with the disc.

when i installed the new pads i found out that the P-brake was stuck (i later disconnected it), but for a few days, the rear brakes were constantly engaged while driving.
-could this cause green fade?
-and can green fade make the pads not make contact with the rotor?
-is there something else causing this (ie malfunctioning caliper?)
-can one corner not contacting make the whole system feel weak?

-is this actually an effect of my brake problems and not the cause??

i can't fix it til spring...cold+metal tools=unhappiness.
 

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It sounds like you have a caliper problem in front and a cable issue in the rear at least. Maybe calipers there as well. Considering the age of the car and the fact that you live in an area where the road crews salt the roads you likely have one or more frozen caliper pistons and or guide pins. If that is the case the best solution would be to obtain a quality set of loaded calipers. These usually come with brackets, new pads and guide pins and all new hardware. Inpsect your rotors and either have them machined or replace them if they are too thin or deeply scored or rust pitted. Rotors that won't fully clean up after they are machined to their min. machining dimension should be replaced. Never turn a rotor to its discard thickness. If you decide to do the work let me know. I'll help you with some tips on doing a first rate brake job.
 

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Destroyer of worlds.
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874 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Twiz said:
Rear rotors ? I'm not sure what that means... Do you have brake pads or disc drums in there ?
SE-R's have 4-wheel disc brakes, sweet huh?

Inspector12: i know the pbrake cable is frozen, and i dont care to fix it anytime soon, dont really need it anyhow. but the calipers...now i want to fix this. i would agree that the back caliper is malfunctioning, and i think that is the only one that is malfunctioning. i remember when i put a spring on backwards on my g/fs drums and the adjuster nut couldnt spin...the whole system felt weak. so its likely that one corner can make the whole thing feel weak, so ill focus on this for now.

i dont think its a frozen piston, they moved freely when i was pushing them back in during pad replacement. would it be possible to attempt to repair the guide pins by polishing and relubing them? i want to try and fix it before i replace it, ya know?

since you seem to be versed in brake repair: how could i remove all the old lube and polish the inside of the shaft? what would be a good lube to use? i have valvoline multi-purpose stuff that they say is good for brake parts(which i have packed brakes with before), but is there a more specialized lube?

assuming i can't fix them, how would i go about replacing them? i have never done anything like that before. where can i get these calipers, should i get aftermarket or dealer OEM?
 

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ur fucked, ig ot the same problem, changed the rear claipers 4x, test the pressure on the bleeder,, last thing is maybe mastercylinder or the proportion valve
 

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Destroyer of worlds.
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874 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
i've decided to call in the cavalry for this doozy, my mechanic buddy. we'll figure it out with out too much trouble and money.
 
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