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spankenstein said:
blownb310, thanks that was informative.

How strong are these engines?
I toyed arround with the idea of just an SR20DE but though I would first see what the E is cabable of. How strong are these? Why is there such a strong opposition to turboing without a rebuild? I've got a Focus and they get turboed with out many problems despite higher compression and powder forged rods as long as you keep enough fuel and not too much timing.
***** I have been making about 150 hp with my 13 to 1 race E16, and have been beating the crap out it for six years, with no problems whatsoever.
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I'd say they're plenty tough. Dave Rebello [in CA] has built many E16's that make in excess of 225 hp. That's with carbs [no turbo or nitrous]. But these are expensive full race applications, with custom crank, rods, pistons, valves, porting, crank trigger ignition, dry sump oiling, etc. Why are people opposed to turboing without a rebuild first? I don't know who said that. But it makes sense though. If you have some tired, oil burning E16, you might as well freshen it first. What good is boost, when you are loosing compression by your rings in the first place? It would probably blow the rubber oil cap off of a worn out E-engine. :p
 
Yah that makes sense to start with an engine in good internal shape. I spend the lst couple days going through almost all the threads and all the turbo related threads seemed to all end up talking about either the E15 or differnt head, pistons, etc.
 
antdagreat said:
what all can be done to the e15t other than upgrading the turbo
***** Porting the head and turbo exhaust manifold are really important items. I'm sure the E15ET could use a larger camshaft too. And don't overlook the importance of adding an intercooler. Eventually, you'll want to upgrade to a larger turbo, crank the boost, and then you'll need a stand alone programable fuel system computer. Hybrid DET has been there and done all that. The next thing you'll find out is, that you can't keep the RS5F30A five-speed together! Aren't you glad you asked? :p
 
UnaClocker said:
I suppose I'd need a computer and harness to match that engine, right? Got those too? $200 is better than the JDM engine I found, and boy do I love turbo cars.. :)
***** That would have been a sweat deal indeed. No, I don't have the harnesses and ECU for it. Otherwise this engine would be under the hood of my winter beater '88 E16 4WD wagon. Too many projects.......not enough time. :D
 
Saved E16 thread from B15Sentra,net

This contains some good high performance E16 modification info. It was retrieved from the defunct B15Sentra.net B11-B14 forums. The question was asked: "How fast is your B11 Sentra, Blownb310?"
You must be referring to my B11 race car? I don't normally drag it, but I did test it at the strip. With the 10.2 to 1 E16 I spoke of, it ran a 15.3 sec. at 89 mph. But that was a mild engine. I replaced it with a .035 over E16 with 13 to 1 forged Cosworth pistons, o-ringed the block, full floated the stock rods, balanced it, used another new Motorsport big valve head, lightly ported, added a Rebello .490" lift cam, the twin 44mm Mikuni's, Pacesetter header w/crankcase evacuation, lightened stock flywheel, [cut on brake lathe myself], and used the stock lightweight stamped steel cam and jackshaft sprockets, that came off of my Pulsar turbo engine [E15ET]. I bought a used Motorsport "Ultra-close ratio" five-speed gearset in my RS5F30A transaxle, with 4.16 final gears. On C12 leaded racing gas, and 13" slicks, it ran a 14.18 at 96.9 mph. I was pleased, [especially for an "E" engine, that many people regard as a boat anchor].

Holy crap. Nice work... What kind of intake manifold did you use for the Mikuni carbs?

I had a hard time finding a twin side draft intake for an E-series engine. I asked Dave Rebello at Rebello Racing [in CA] if he had one, while I was ordering my cam from him. He said the Nissan Motorsport intakes were discontinued a long time ago. Luckily, he said he had one Mexican made generic twin side draft intake kicking around, that was a rough casting, not machined. He sold it to me cheaply, and I had it machined and then ported it while it was bolted to my cyl. head, for a perfect port match. It had an internal vacum balance orifice cast into it, between the cyl. runners. Dave didn't know why, and told me to block them off by filling them in. I used PC-7 and it works fine. The carbs themselves are 44mm, but came with 37mm "chokes" installed from Motorsport. This is fine, because I don't feel that my engine would benefit from having any larger a venturi. It pulls strongly from 5,400 to 7,000 rpm.

Huh. Sounds awesome. Can you give us more details about your pistons and the full floating piston pins?

The pistons were bought used, from a pile of old E16 race engines Dave had. One of them had a few nicks on the bottom of it, obviously from an engine faliure, but they polished out easily, and were not problematic in any way. I fit them at .0035" piston to wall clearance. The advice Dave gave me, was to use the stock forged rods, to drill a 1/8th inch oil hole at the top of the small end [pin end] of the rod, and champher the hole. Then have the pin bore of the rod honed for .001" clearance for the now full floating stock E16 wrist pin, and no bronze bushing would be necessary. He was right, no problems at all. It sure beats pressing the piston pins on and off too. Here's a great tip I learned from Dave also: For a real hot "E" engine, the total amount of ignition timing you'll want is ONLY 18-20 degrees. This is not very much, compared to other engines, but the shape and the small 17.9cc chambers on the FI or Turbo heads, dictate this. Again, I never would have tried that little timing, unless Dave Rebello said so. He dyno's all kinds of E-series race engines, and is in "the know." Thank you Dave!

Where does the actual floating pin come from? Are forged pistons still available?

The piston pins I used were the OE pins, nothing special about them. The fact that they are no longer pressed into the rod, and that they are now fitted with .001" clearance, makes them a floating pin. There are teflon "buttons" that center the pin and retain it, in the piston. The pistons were made by Cosworth. I would imagine that you could get them from places like Malvern Racing [VA] or Rebello Racing [CA]. The web address for Malvern Racing is: http://www.malvernracing.com, and the Rebello's web address is: http://www.rebelloracing.com.
 
Crazy-Mart said:
the adaptator for the E series engine can always be bougth at
TWM induction : http://www.twminduction.com/
the manifold use a 2x DCOE setup.... and they sell injection setup to suit the manifold too !! :)
Nice to hear from you, Crazy-Mart. What adapter are you referring to? I didn't see any E-series side draft intakes available. Is that what you meant?
 
you got to download the catalog listed in PDF format, thats why you cannot find it in the site, but only in the catalog !! :) it is called inletmanifold.pdf inside it you got all soryts of nissan adapter and more for other brand but they list and pixs of 1200,e10/13, e15/16 ,ga series, DS20, L16 L18 L20, L6 L24 L28
Carb/TBi adapter :) ... they also sell DCOE style TBI.... independant TB :) with each one monted with bosse to take and injector... also they sell fuel rail, custom, untouched by the foot ect... the easy way to get your E serie or older engine (240 or 280z) fuel injected !! :) sure this thing is a blast to watch but cost a bondle !! :(
 
Poor [or cheap] man's carb upgrade

I have been helping a couple guys out with some carb/intake advice today, and decided to copy some of the info here. One of our members is trying to put a Weber on his '86 E16S, and ran into a snag. The adapter doesn't cover the coolant passage on top of the carb flange. I have never used a Weber, but I'm sure it's a great carb. In any case, I doubt the Weber adapter was intended for use on the electronically carbed E16's. That's why the adapter won't work right on them. Seems to me, that the Weber deal was intended for the '82.5 and '83 regular choke carbed E16's. They don't have the coolant holes on the carb mounting base. That is the intake I have always used, and it is the one shown below. This series of pictures, shows the modified '83 intake, opened up with a die grinder, to accept an '85 Nissan [720] Pickup truck carb, from a Z24 engine.
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You can see how much bigger the Z24 carb is, compared to the E16's.

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This is the Z24's carb gasket, up against the tiny stock E16 carb.
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The orange baseplate gasket is from the Z24. The mounting holes were close enough, to oval out, to fit the E16's carb studs.

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Here's how the finished product looks. :)
 
Alright new question.... What (stock) intake would you recommend for the E16i. Just realized Ive got a friend with a tig welder that has made several intakes for Ford Pintos. Thinking of modding an intake to use the Weber 2Bbl. Most dont know this but Chevettes came with a (Holley liscenced Weber). Basically the same as they sell on the aftermarket, but much cheaper. The older ones were completely mechanical and take standard Holley jets. He told me to get the right Nissan intake and a Chevette intake and hed make me one in his spare time. I think you know that this would be for the Pulsar.
 
As far as I know, there is really only one design downdraft intake for the E-series engine. Early [up to '83] don't have the coolant port under the carb, like the '84-'87's do, but other than that, they all look the same to me. All I can imagine you could do, is cut the intake manifold to head flange off of the stock E16 intake, and adapt it to another better intake [like the 2.0L pinto], or build the rest from scratch. It's going to take some skilled work, but it sounds like you have the right man for the job! :)
 
As far as the coolant ports - that didn't end up being a big deal. I just tapped the holes and used set screws with an allen key opening and threadlocked them in. Now I'm straightening out the throttle linkage, but that's the last big thing. I won't get back to it until Friday, but it should be running before the end of next weekend.
 
I believe all E-series cams are very close to being the same. I checked factory shop manuals from various years, and they are all in the neighborhood of the middle .300" range. The easiest way for you to verify what lift you have, put a dial indicator on the top of one of the retainers, and zero it out with the valve closed. Then turn the cam until the valve is at full lift, and read the dial indicator. That number is your [at valve] gross lift.
The size of the valves in the 15M [E15ET] head are Intake: 37mm [1.46"] and Exhaust: 31mm [1.22"]. :)
 
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