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Guys, lots of myths being passed along in this thread. :rolleyes:

Do a search of this forum using the word "synthetic" and/or various brand oil names (Castrol, Pennzoil, Chevron, etc ...) to find extensive threads on this very subject.
 

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"Mobil 1 synthetic is the best according to the dealer that used to change my oil. They sell Royal Purple too, but they told me that the cars they take to the track using the Purple show wear on the parts."

Current Mobil 1 is very good oil ... not sure it is the best. Royal Purple's street grades thin out quickly (by design) which might account of the wear, depending, depending ...

"The service manager told me that Mobil 1 is the closest thing to race oil.

He is incorrect. Red Line Oil is the closest to race oil. They actually make and sell a pure race oil while Mobil 1 does not. Red Line's street and race grades are almost identical exceot the street oils have more detergents and dispersants to keep the motor clean for thousands of miles and a hundred or more times the engine is started, brought up to temp and then allowed to cool. These are not needed for a race weekend so Red Line formulates their race oils as pure anti-wear lubricants without these compromising additives.

http://www.redlineoil.com/

I like Mobil 1 but I currently use Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 synthetic blend. It's not a phoney blend like most of the mass-market oils on the shelves today. It's high quality Group II+ mineral base oil with a 20-25% PAO component and an excellent additive package featuring about 200PPM of molybdenum. Not a bad value for $3 per quart. I go 5,000 miles with pretty good results verified with UOAs (Used Oil Analyses).

http://www.schaefferoil.com/
 

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To generalize, I think that with (real) synthetics, you can use the 'normal' drain intervals stated in your owners manual ... although I wouldn't go even that long without performing UOAs to verify that wear is in check..

For dino oils, consider the 'severe' schedule a prudent guideline.

But, this is just a generalization.
 
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