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Discussion Starter #41
i finally got that blasted metal ring and rubber out of the left passenger mount!! it would be a lot easier if i had good tools and a good area to work in(as a college student, there aren't many places to work on cars). i was working out of a friend's rented garage but can't now, so now I'm working on it in the stairwell of my apartment.

I'm gonna go find some sandpaper now. the screwdriver chewed into the mount in a few places.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I finally got it in! HUGE improvement. The car's a little louder, as more vibrations are transferred to the body, but the the responsiveness is way better and the lurching is gone. definitely glad i made the investment in polyurethane mounts.
 

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I finally got it in! HUGE improvement. The car's a little louder, as more vibrations are transferred to the body, but the the responsiveness is way better and the lurching is gone. definitely glad i made the investment in polyurethane mounts.
did you change all of them? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #44
no. i just have the two front engine mounts in at this point. thanks for the tips though. It went just like you said. it's still a pain without a bench or a bench-top vice, but doable. i'll wait a couple weeks to do the rear one. i want a weekend again where i'm not working on a car. i like how much of the engine's initial torque i have now. I can't believe how much was lost to engine block movement. my car responds like it has at least 30 more hp. it sounds drastic, i know, but it's true. it's loud as heck now though around 85 mph. no more engine vibrations being absorbed by soggy rubber.

is your car a lot louder too, 2dr_sentra?
 

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no more engine vibrations being absorbed by soggy rubber.

is your car a lot louder too, 2dr_sentra?
Well.. haha yeah! i have big cams and 3 inch side exit exhaust, its loud :)

But you're going to be feel alot more butt vibrations at first. They'll break in. It feels amazing when you change them all at once.

You can also use your car to press them in. Just jack the car up and lower the wheel onto it and it will press them in. Sound crazy but it works.

I wish they made them for the versa id buy them without a second guess.
 

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Hey, I have a 1998 nissan sentra 4dr, 1.6 engine and automatic. I was hoping someone can tell me if the prothrane polyurathane inserts would work for me. I called summit racing and they say that they have no parts that would fit and i also got in touch with energy racing and they said the same thing. I would like to change to the polyurathane if i can. Also if you know anything about camber adjustments. My tire has been cutting really bad on the insides and the tire place tells me the camber is off. Please help if you can. Thanks.
 

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Hey, I have a 1998 nissan sentra 4dr, 1.6 engine and automatic. I was hoping someone can tell me if the prothrane polyurathane inserts would work for me. I called summit racing and they say that they have no parts that would fit and i also got in touch with energy racing and they said the same thing. I would like to change to the polyurathane if i can. Also if you know anything about camber adjustments. My tire has been cutting really bad on the insides and the tire place tells me the camber is off. Please help if you can. Thanks.
Are you looking for motor mounts? You use the FWD SR20 prothane motor mount inserts
 

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2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
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brought mine for my GA16 and ended up using them on the sr20, the inserts are interchangeable, the mount assembly is not in some cases.
For camber you can buy camber bolts that are smaller and allow adjustment.
I think a better way to go is to slot the top strut hole and use the std bolt.
How far is your camber off ?
 

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this one?
2dr_Sentra, I quoted from a pic of a front motor mount that you posted. Is this engine a ga16de? I have a B14 and was in the engine bay looking for the locations of the motor mount. the front one should be right below the exhaust manifolds? If yes, then Im missing a motor mount!!:confused:
 

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Autos dont have the front mount !!
 

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guess so
Assuming you don't have a turbo set up I don't see why stock wouldn't be fine.
 

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guess so
Assuming you don't have a turbo set up I don't see why stock wouldn't be fine.
No turbo. I personally will not put a turbo on an automatic. Nor any high performance upgrade. Besides its a 1600 engine. If I get a chance to swap to a bigger engine, then anything goes, as long as it passes inspections :)
 

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or you can just jack up the engine a little and insert cut pieces of vbelts in the grooves both on the top and the bottom.. i mean you should replace them ideally but just in case you just want a temp relief ..oh and use a BLOCK OF WOOD on the oil pan when you jack it up
 

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I started to replace my mount with prothane inserts. Started, because I was not able to finish. It took about 5 hours just to replace the passenger side. I didn't have a bench top vice/clamp to work with. It took me 4 hours just to remove the inner part of the mount. Everything else was ok though. No hassle in installing the prothane insert for that mount, just grease and hand install. Getting the mount installed on the engine needed a few wrestling moves.

I will be replacing the other 2 mounts as well when time and weather permit.

I do have a question, on the tranny mount, can I support the engine with a jack on the tranny? and for the rear mount, do I need to support the engine?

And so as not to have more surprises, the removal of inner part of the tranny and rear mount (these mounts are the similar right?), can I expect the same things as the passenger mount? (like the inner metal part can come off as a whole)

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
yeah, man. they're all the same. I suppose you could put a jack under the tranny. I put one under the engine (wood board b/t the jack and the oil pan) and one at the place where tranny mates up against the engine. It took you four hours just to remove the inner part?? I didn't have a vice or bench either but it didn't take me more than an hour. Just get a small hack saw, and saw through the rubber and ring in two places (probably about 2 inches from each other on the ring) and then pop the 2-inch length of the inner ring out. I carefully used a screwdriver and hammer. Then pop the larger chunk out. It comes out really easily if you pull it out in two pieces like that.
 

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yup, whole job was 5 hours,4 hours just to hammer out the freakin inner part. I have a small hack saw but I didnt know how to use it on the mouth, fear of breaking something. The metal that was a quarter size of the inner diameter caught me offguard. I didnt expect that. So I removed most of the rubbert that I could and hammered a chisel for 4 hours until the inner part moved. After that thing moved it was just a few minutes to get the whole thing out.
thanks for the advice. I'll do just that.

After this I'll be seeking and try to illiminate all the rattling noises. And I need to change my screws on my license plates. Their rattling horribly.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
haha! you'll never get rid of all the rattling noises. they're everywhere and the longer you have the mounts, the more you'll get over time. I love the surge of instant torque i get now with them in, but it is a bit noisier.
 

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well, I'll do my best. whenever I have time. In the meantime, increasing the volume on the radio make all the rattling disappear lol.
The vibration is similar to a diesel engine vehicle. And I've driven diesel before. I know I will get used to it
 
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