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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for information on converting a OEM-equipped B13 with power steering to OEM non-power steering setup.

What I need to know is this: What modifications/parts do I need to "downgrade" for an OEM fit?

-My car has three belts:
1. A/C
2. Alternator
3. PS Pump and Water Pump.

-Sentras w/out PS have two belts:
1. A/C
2. Alternator and Water Pump.

More specifically, what do i need to have to get the Alternator to line up with the Water Pump? or vice versa? Can anyone confirm that an alternator bracket from the Sentra E will move the alternator in line?

I doubt a different water pump setup was utilized, but I have nothing to disprove this.

I do realize a manual rack is necessary. Skip that part.

I want information from people who KNOW what they're talking about. I want real info. Please, no off-topic stories or "just do this" suggestions. There are NO useful posts on this subject that I can find. Info from Nissan Technicians or Parts employees would be GREAT!
 

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you take the p/s belt off and go to the part store and buy a non p/s alternator belt.

put the belt on the water pump and alternator.
 

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Im wondering about this also, but from what I can see the alignment is pretty far off. Im not sure just using the other belt will work. At least not for long.
 

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well i just took off my p/s on my ga16de and routed belt to the water pump and alternator without any problems. this engine came stock without p/s and i added it later. but i have removed it cuz i dont like p/s on the sentra's.

unless the brackets are different, i dont see a problem.
someone else may know.
 

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Yeah im pretty sure there is a difference in the brackets. I just found a manual rack for 75 and am looking to change that out. I hear you on the power steering on these cars. Mine is way to soft. I prefer a little more resistance when riving a little more aggressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The brackets have to be different. Cars *WITH FACTORY P/S* have ALTERNATORS and WATER PUMPS that DO NOT LINE UP.

*there are two crank pulleys available for these engines*
--- some are 3-belt design, some only 2-belt

BOTH designs support A/C operation, difference is:
--- 3-belt design supported factory P/S
--- 2-belt does not have factory P/S

As i stated earlier, my P/S pump and water pump are on ONE belt. They line up with the 2nd (middle) grooved section of (my 3-belt) crank pulley.

My Alternator runs on a completely separate belt from all other pulleys. It is on the 3rd belt section, closest to the engine.

(A/C also had its separate belt, but that has been removed)

The only way to eliminate the P/S pump (that I can see) is to MOVE the alternator more towards the drivers side of the engine bay. This has to move a good 20mm or so. The reason this has to be done, is because by eliminating the factory P/S pump, the water pump belt tensioner is eliminated.

*by adding the alternator setup to the water pump and crank pulley, the alternators tensioner bracket can be utilized to tighten the water pump belt*

You know what would be great? If someone could give me a VIN code from a factory non-p/s car... so I can go to the Nissan dealer and look up the parts differences between the cars. If anyone can go to a junkyard or find a parts car like this, it would be the best bet of figuring this out.

Pictures of non-p/s setups would be great!!

keep this thread going...
 

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I will be getting started on swapping the engine and trans from a '93 Sentra XE that is a factory P/S car into my '92 Sentra E that is a factory non P/S car this weekend. I will make a note of exactly what the differences are for you guys, and get pictures.

My Sentra E's VIN is 1N4EB32A2NC773233 if that helps anyone with the VIN codes and what not.
 

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The brackets have to be different.

The only way to eliminate the P/S pump (that I can see) is to MOVE the alternator more towards the drivers side of the engine bay. This has to move a good 20mm or so. The reason this has to be done, is because by eliminating the factory P/S pump, the water pump belt tensioner is eliminated.
I took a ga16de w/out p/s and added the p/s bracket and 3 groove crank pulley.
I ran this setup for a year or so, then the pump went bad. so now i took and put the 2 groove crank pulley back on and I am just running the alternator, water pump. I never changed the alternator bracket.

but according to this: 230 Alternator Fitting :: Engine Electrical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: Sentra / NX (B13) 1991-1994 :: CourtesyParts.com

they have 2 different brackets and i have the p/s bracket on my car now.
i just took off the p/s pump and got the belt for a non-p/s engine.
 

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just another thought, you could put your alternator where your p/s was, not sure how hard it would be on the GA engine but i did it on my CA and all i had to do was fab up a adjusting bracket. you might be able to use the adjusting bracket from the p/s pump, i dunno i have not looked into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Although that's definitely not the kind of answer i'm looking for... i like your idea. Might have to lengthen a few wires, but at the same time it would get the alternator away from the header. My stainless header is only about 1/4" away from the alternator right now (using a different bracket would put it about 1" away, like i want to do).

I'll check into it this weekend if i can.
 

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My alternator has to be moved towards the passenger side... I am looking at fabing a bracket so I can get rid of the AC/Alternator bracket that weighs a ton. So from what im getting from this post. I can run the WP and ALT on the same belt with no probs right? Just one belt for the accessories... Oh and I have a UD pulley so thats what I think is the difference for my alternator.
 

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yes you can run just 1 belt.

on my CA i actually cut the lower half of my bracket off to get ti out of the way and to reduce weight.
 

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yes you can run just 1 belt.

on my CA i actually cut the lower half of my bracket off to get ti out of the way and to reduce weight.
Yeah Ive heard of people cutting it, but you still have half of the heavy bracket. Then I still have the issue of aligning the pulleys to run one belt...
 

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cut the bolt holes so you can slide the bracket as much as you need then tighten.

tho i like the idea of making a new lighter bracket.
 

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Yeah that idea jumped in my head when I was looking at the bracket. That thing is massive and it really wont be to hard to make a bracket. Just finding the time and right tools is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay. This thread was designated for OEM factory power steering removal.

I'm not looking to fabricate brackets OR make 3/4" longs slots in the factory cast steel bracket. Besides, slotting it to that extent would move the bracket beyond the bolt holes, and likewise look, fit, and work like ass.

By all means, someone go ahead and attempt it. I won't ruin my parts because someone suggested I do so without even looking under the hood of their own car to see that THIS WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE to accomplish.

At the beginning of this thread, I stated very clearly what I was looking for and what type of advise that I was NOT looking for. Before posting, it's really beneficial to read the ENTIRE thread before adding misleading and irrelevant posts.

Back to the topic of discussion.

Next time i hit the nissan dealer, i'm gonna look for part 11710, from this diagram (kudos to "greenbean699" for this):
230 Alternator Fitting :: Engine Electrical :: Genuine Nissan Parts :: Sentra / NX (B13) 1991-1994 :: CourtesyParts.com

the non-power steering bracket in the big picture shares part numbers with the power steering bracket in the little picture, but there will be a difference in Nissan's parts catalog at the dealer.

And I'll bring the VIN to "Sentra E's" car, because I know they'll be asking for one. That should narrow it down. I'll post results when I get them.
 

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Well I was giving you a way to do this and also remove a 8 pound useless bracket. As for doing it with factory parts, someone already posted that the difference was in the pulley. Go to a junkyard and try to find a stock pulley that is on a car that had no powersteering from the factory. AND I have looked under the hood of my car many times while thinking about this post and fabing a bracket.
 

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Here's what I found. The large cast bracket that the A/C compressor and Alternator mount to are definitely different between P/S and non P/S cars, and the difference IS in where the alternator is positioned. The non P/S bracket aligns the alternator pulley with the water pump pulley, where as the P/S bracket aligns it with another pulley on the crank shaft pulley that runs the alternator only.

Also, the water pump pulley on the non P/S car is bigger around then the P/S car. And then of course ,the P/S cars have the 3 groove crank pulley where as the non P/S has the 2 groove.

So, you will need the 2 groove crank pulley, water pump pulley, and the cast bracket that the A/C compressor bolts to in order to convert a P/S car to non P/S.

For the record, I did try to just bolt the A/C compressor bracket and water pump pulley from the non P/S car onto the engine that had P/S, without changing the 3 groove crank pulley. The serpentine belt off the non P/S car is too short, because the diameter of the middle groove on the 3 groove crank pulley is smaller then that of the 2 groove.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
now THAT's what i'm looking for

Sentra E, did you try using the non P/S belt with the 3 groove crank pully, p/s water pump pulley, and non p/s alternator bracket?

if the non p/s water pump pulley is larger than the p/s water pump pulley, i'm wondering if the belt may fit without changing diameters of the crank and water pump pulleys
 

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or u can go to the auto parts store and get a longer belt.
 
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