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posted on 18-Apr-05 18:29 [edited 0 times] [edit] [delete]

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Hi,

Can someone pls let me know

1) Ways and means in which i can improve the fuel consumption of my Sunny
B13.

2) The normal Service interval for the major components like,

Oil filter, Oil, Belt, Air Filter, Plugs etc etc (Please include the
service intervals for the other components i have not mentioned as well)


thanks

Mahen
 

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absolutely classic
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mahens said:
posted on 18-Apr-05 18:29 [edited 0 times] [edit] [delete]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi,

Can someone pls let me know

1) Ways and means in which i can improve the fuel consumption of my Sunny
B13.

2) The normal Service interval for the major components like,

Oil filter, Oil, Belt, Air Filter, Plugs etc etc (Please include the
service intervals for the other components i have not mentioned as well)


thanks

Mahen
1. Drive slower, don't rev as high, make sure your car is well tuned, ease off the gas

2. Check the service manual that should have came with the car, it will list all the intervals for the above parts.

You should note that we do not get paid for this. Requesting something like service intervals for components you didn't even mention are not why most people come to this forum. I'm nice about it, but there are some who will simply tell you to search... in a not so nice way.
 

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I too have a problem with consumption.
Mine is 1.4l 1994 model unny-Sentra manual.
full tank gets "evaporated" in less than 350km city driving.
Mechanic said that the setting was instead of 2.5 to 2.57 and a little rubber was in a bad shape and that now it should give better milage but not a lot.
We'll see.
My Honda 1990 honda civic 1.5l gave 550 km at least, same fuel tank, bigger engine.
 

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If you have fuel issues, I suggest you check the usual parts: cap, rotor, plugs, wires, filters, tire pressure, etc. If these are all in good shape, check for leaking fuel injectors, poor driving habits, bad MAF sensor, TPS sensor, inlet air and coolant sensors (the car will think it needs more fuel if it gets a cold signal all the time), or a fuel leak.

I'm not entirely sure what 350km translates to in MPG (too lazy to convert it), but my 1.6L Sentra auto only gets about 21 MPG, but that is with a leaking injector on cylinder #1, cold weather, and very hard driving.
 

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I raise the tire pressures above the manufacturers recommended level (about 36/35 psi F/R). Some may not like this because of a less comfortable ride but I don't care because it also helps steering response and overall gives the car a sharper feel. Technically it reduces your braking ability but I don't notice any and I actually prefer the feedback I get from stiffer tires.

Make sure your cooling system is functioning properly, mainly that it's warming up to operating temperature as quickly as possibly, with the most important maintenance item here being the thermostat. Hot engines are more efficient.

Switch to a K&N air filter. Because they're less restrictive than conventional filters they reduce pumping losses (load placed on the engine from sucking in and pushing out gases) in the engine. In other words the engine isn't working as hard to do the same job.

Make sure your oil stays healthy (change your filter too) and use the appropriate grade for your climate. Also, since it's an old engine and you don't know it's history (if you bought it used) run Seafoam through the crankcase before draining the oil. This will break up old sludge and carbon buildup to be drained, and will also thin out the oil slightly, ensuring that it drains more thoroughly. Remember, don't ignore your MT oil either.

Spark plugs are very important. I've used NGK units in my past two vehicles and they're great. Some people modify their plugs by cutting back the side electrode so the tip is over the center of the center electrode, and then they cut a groove down the center of the center electrode. This helps to trap fuel around the electrodes so that the richer area of the charge starts burning first and thus the engine runs slightly more efficiently. I noticed when I changed my plugs recently that standard NGK units (I think they're called V Power) come pre-made like this.

Engine brake. This is where you downshift with the throttle closed. If the revs go up with the throttle closed, the extremely high vacuum that's created in the manifold puts a great load on the engine and decelerates the car without using the brakes as much. This saves fuel because without taking in air, the engine won't take in fuel, whereas if you just put the clutch in and let the engine idle while you come to a stop it's using fuel that whole time.

These are all things that I've done with my '93 Sentra XE (plus I removed the AC drive belt over the winter) and even in cold weather I've been getting around 34 MPG.
 

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throw in a can of BG 44K and that will remove the deposits in the engine and carbon. They also sell BG TDC and that works great also. These products will clean the injectors. I used this before I had mine professionally cleaned and they told me that I did not need to have mine done. Nissan injectors are good, but after 85,000 I thought the BG would not work that good, It really does. if you have pinging, this stuff will remove the carbon that causes it and you can use 87 octane again as long as you did not advance the timing or add a JWT ECU.

Chris 92 classic
 

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My 1992 UK model Sunny 1.4 LX gets 26 MPG (UK gallon). I had it checked over by a Nissan main dealer who said there is no fault and that fuel consumption is about right for this model. That's a heck of a lot of fuel for a small car. I am not impressed -- I bought this hoping it would be cheaper to run than my Land Rover Freelander which gets 30 MPG. Sigh. At least the insurance is cheaper. And so is the UK annual car tax.
 

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I Want to know what are the fuel & Air Jet Sizes in Idle & High Speed level in fb13, 1991, Petrol, Carburetor Model?

Idle

Air Jet Size
Fuel Jet Size

High Speed

Air Jet Size
Fuel Jet Size

if anybody know about please give the advise to me.
 
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