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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I searched "B13 clutch adjustment" and it came up as 'no match', so.....anyone care to give it a go?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it did. Thank alot. Altho I'm not quite sure what the "free play" means exactly (I know what free play means, but not sure how it applies here.).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, could someone please tell me how the "free play" applies to this exactly and how'd I know if I adjusted too much?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Both. I mean, the directions are saying there should be some free play, but how do you measure .10-.14? And my pedal, call me silly, but it just goes in and comes out the same pressure. I'm not sure what they mean by free play there.
 

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The pedal should move .10-.14 of an inch before the cable becomes taught is my understanding... But ive been wrong before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
HUH? Can I feel the cable getting taut from the pedal (.10"!??)? I cannot, I only feel the tranny engaging or disengaging. Is this some kind of a newby joke? If So HA, HA! AS a yound Marine years ago, I was sent out to the tarmac to aquire 5 gallons of rotor wash from a CH56Echo. Being the Gung ho Marine I was, I spent most of the morning irritating the crap out of alot of jet mechs, 'til everyione had a laugh on me. This feels like that.
 

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so it kinda looks like:
1st: make sure your clutch pedal is at the right hight
2nd: push the clutch release arm back towards the firewall and then tighten the adjustment nut.
3rd: check the clutch again.
4th: repeat 2&3 till the proper measurements are recorded. probably best to invest in a ruler with both metric and standard measurements.

Now, i have a question about the adjustment nut.

does moving toward the firewall give more free play or less. Currently i have mine moved back as far as it will go (toward the firewall) and it seems like my clutch isn't fully disengaging and my transmission is grinding alot, although it doesn't grind all the time.
More symptoms: if i sart my car in gear, even with the clutch fully depressed, it rolls. It's also harder to get into and out of gear even when it doesn't grind.

anyone with any advice plz feel free to help.

I'm gonna try adjusting my nut the opposite direction and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah,I adjusted the A nut toward the firewall (clockwise) probably 3 turns (totally random) and the clutch feels 'better', meaning a more positive engagement with the tranny, I think. Anyway, no grinding or jumping out of gear, it goes into every gear very good. Just feels 'tighter', more positive engagement.

See, here , I think, is the problem: On the old American cars, the clutch ajustment referred to the pedal's distance from the floor before the tranny was engaged( in other words, you push the pedal to the floor and then how far the pedal comes off the floor before the tranny engages was the adjustment {on most American cars, like my '67 Pontiac La Mans, '69 GTO, my Dad's '67 Camaro and '66 Chevelle}). Apparently that's not the case here. AFAIK, that distance is predetermined and cannot be adjusted, only the slack in the cable. Is this a correct assessment?
 

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Nah man wasnt messing with ya. Just how I took it. Im a by feel person. I feel it get a little more tension when the pedal starts to engage the clutch. Might have to try it with a ruler now though....
 

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With a hydraulic actuator the adjustment is to get the pedal at the right height, otherwise it is normally self adjusting. ie most old cars and some new ones !!!.
With a cable you need slack so the TB is pulled back from the pressure plate.
Hence the typical spec of 0.1 to 0.25 inches at the actuating arm.
just push the arm towards the firewall till the arm wont move anymore with finger pressure, now see how much slack you have in the end of the cable.
So long as there is some say 0.1 then the TB is away from the pressure plate and wont be turning all the time.
With a cable if there is no slack you can get clutch slip. This is not an issue with a hydraulic set up.
 
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