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what?
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2,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey,
Once my lights are fastened to the front of my car. What reccomedations do any of you have as to wire routing and hiding/weatherproofing. THe switch is in the interior, so how do you reccomend I get the wiring inside?

Seth
 

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Nissan Guru
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152 Posts
This is what you do
Forget the switch!!!!

I just wired them to my head lights, all you have to do is find the wire that is hot, hook your driving lights or cobra eyes, or what ever, into a light you would use anyway at night. I wanted my cobra eyes to come on when i turned my fog lights on (the first click our rod), so i hooked them to my fog lights, its easy to do , then i just replaced the light, and there you have it , if you want the driving ligts to come on whith your fog lights, then do it that way, or if you want them to do it with you headlights then do it that way. i also wanted my neon liscense plate in the back to come on when i turned my lights on , so i hooked it to my lights that came on that illuminated my liscense plate, and replaced the cover without the bulbs in and it worked, now everytime i click it once to get the fog lights on my liscense plate came on and my cobra eyes. You can do the same.

Now if your destined to use the switch then just keep your wires together and run it throught the crack under the hood and lead it to the drivers side door and make it come in under where the door is into the cabin, its easy without drilling through the fire wall, or if you know a place in the fire wall where there is an existing hole is then use it, but the door trick worked great on my old corrolla.
good luck its easy once you do it once then you can wire anything.
 

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I just recently installed a set of fog lamps on my 98 nissan sentra gxe. My installation required drilling through my bumper. I grounded to my frame, and ran my wiring by punching a small hole with an exacto knife in the rubber grommet on the passenger side of the car. If you pop your hood and look to the left down a little youll see a black rubber grommet with a wire harness running through the firewall. cut your hole in that (as small as possible to stop moisture from getting in) and use a phillips screwdriver and a pice of tape to thread your wiring through the firewall into the passenger compartment. If you tape the wires to the screwdriver when you poke it into the hole you cut you can open your passenger door and reach up (pretty damn high) behind the dash and feel around for the screw driver, its a ways up and not exactly comfortable, but its there, then simple pull the wiring free of the tape on the screw driver. Once the wiring was in, i used electrical tape to harness them together and I pulled off the dash panel beneath my steering column (with the fuse box panel) off. Down low on this panel is a flat spot perfect for mounting switches. Use a drill, heave duty exacto knife, or a heat cutter to make the hole neccessary to wire the switch in, its pretty much bt the book from there.
 

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what?
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2,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey,
So I ordered the Optilux (by hella) remote kit. YOu can hook up, 4 lights (2 and 2) to it (by any hella set). Then just push the buttons to tun it on. And no wiring to go inside the car. It can all stay under the bumper by the battery.

Seth
 

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S12 Fanatic
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211 Posts
If you do need to wire up a switch and thus run wires through the firewall, you should have no problem finding an existing opening to use. In the past I've usually used the hole where all the wires go through to all the other dash switches (headlights, etc.) It's usually somewhere near the master cylinder.
 

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what?
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2,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update:
So the FF's are in. I had to go to a shop to get the bumper cut and the mounts attached (it was either that (btw $18 total) or remove the bumper myself. They just put it on a lift and screwed in the little mounts and I got to be there and tell them how. Insurance be damned). Now I just need to get an allen key screwdriver (normally they are in little "L"s but that won't fit.) and aim them. I wired them and they work. I have them running on their own feed, not that of the high beam (so I can turn them on and off whenever).

I think that I shouldn't go the wireless route.
1) because I can't run the fogs separately, and
2) because its a lot more wiring under the hood. As it is now I have the wires snakeing around from the firewall by the driver to the battery along the driver side fender, and the light wires are tied up un front of the radiator behind the grile. This way they don't actually touch the radiator and melt.
So how do I get the wires inside the car. I can't find any openings. All the ones that go through are sealed. On top of that I can't see where they enter the car. They are sealed there too. I am not tearing off the seals.

Seth
 

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Wise Cracker
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5,730 Posts
Best route.

The factory opening is in the driver side fender well. Jack up the car on the front driver side, remove the wheel, then remove the plastic fenderwell liner. This exposes the factory wiring and the rubber boot is passes through. There are several benefits to doing it this way:

All your wires will come out of the hole with all of the factory wiring into the engine bay.

Your wiring will come out right near the factory fuse panel inside the car.

Your wiring will be protected from the elements by using the factory provisions.

I ran all of my wiring including my 0 gauge power wire. I used a rather large piece of flexible PVC tubing that I ran through the factory boot. Then I just slid all of my wiring through the tube, I can add or remove any of the wiring this way in the future. I also siliconed it in place to make sure it was waterproof. Best part is that it took longer to jack up the car than it did to run the wiring!
 

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what?
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Discussion Starter #10
Well,
Now that I've gone down there, it isn't as easy as it sounds. Removing that plastic thing is a pain, unless we are talking about 2 different things. How much of the plastic thing is actually coming off. Just the part in the drivers footwell area, or more that extends to the suspension assembly. If it is the former, I guess I won't have to lift the car. But if it is more, it may be troublesome. Also you have to remove the kickpanel or what would be where a dead pedal goes. In your car you have that custom floor setup. By me I would have to remove the plastic on the floor, no?
Tell me if I'm missing something.
However that location is prime for me to run the wiring though.

Seth
 

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Wise Cracker
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5,730 Posts
Input

I took off the wheel and the entire plastic liner. There is ONE fastener that is located near the spring assembly that is a PITA, but you could probably remove all of them except for that one and just let it hang. ANd no you shouldn't have to remove the factory kick panel, the wiring comes out at a higher point than that, it's VERY difficult to see where it comes out without getting your head under the dash and looking up.
 

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what?
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2,704 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well,
I took off three screws holding a plastic retainer near the edge of the fender, and one clip in the center, then just pulled back the liner. I had to poke a hole, but then the wires just passed right through. The hole is about the hight where the power mirrors plug is, just at the firewall.
Thanks.

Seth
 
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