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Are 200sx's know for bad crappy stock clutches???
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how bad is it slipping ? Is this the 1st stick car you have or do u put extreme stress on it very often? To the best of my knowledge I think ur spozda give ur clutch anywhere from 500 - 1500 miles to be "broken in" before its good... Personally I got mine done @ Aamco and it ran me 850 buck ... it hurt my pockets pretty bad and I am thinking they sold me a refurbished clutch disc ... its slightly slipping now , about a year late but I am driving it nicer and if I do push it hard I dont act like a retard with my shifts ... lol , gotta make this one last
Later
-Pete-
Later
-Pete-
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No, this isnt my first car with a stick, I use to have a tercel and I ran the piss out of it and never ad a problem with the clutch the entire time I had it. Then I got hit in a car wreck and used the money to buy my 200sx. I would have to admit that i do mess around sometimes racing ppl but not very often, just started doing it about 2 weeks ago.
what seams to be the problem w/ this clutch? Grinding in all gears? 5th grear pop out? You may have a bad TO bearing or a bent forkour you could be over cerntering? Mabye your gear oil is crap? Mabye you just drive it too hard? there are a number of things that can cause clutches to go bad ....
Ive got 99XXX on my stock clutch and i drop it hard and stuff all the time and she still doesnt miss a shift or slip at all.
Ive got 99XXX on my stock clutch and i drop it hard and stuff all the time and she still doesnt miss a shift or slip at all.
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455 Posts
One other thing I would like to add. Is the clutch chattering? If so, then I would look at the rear main seal. They do tend to go after awhile, I had mine replaced at 130,000 on my old car. If the disc gets oil on it, then it will chatter when it's engaged. Good luck!
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what do you mean by "chatter"??? I just had an oil leak fixed and I dont know if it was the front or rear seal but I can describe how they showed me it. They took off my passangers side tire and it was in there. They had to take all the belts off too and replace them.
I have also noticed a new sound my car is making...it sound like grinding or something like that. It only happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd between 3 and 4 grand and I have to barely be on the gas.
I have also noticed a new sound my car is making...it sound like grinding or something like that. It only happens in 1st 2nd and 3rd between 3 and 4 grand and I have to barely be on the gas.
My dad as a 90 Toyota Pickup and the stock clutch on it lasted 196k miles, but we replaced the clutch in about november and its already starting to slip a bit, I think it was cause of 2 reasons, 1 he got a cheap NAPA clutch disk, and 2 we didnt resurface the flywheel when it probably could've used it.
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well, the ppl that put my new clutch in supposidly had the flywheel resurfaced and Im pretty sure my clutch kit was from advance auto
Don't buy crap products and expect stock results. Compare the prices of a stock setup against the price for the kit that "garage" put in. There's a reason why you pay less than 100 dollars for a complete clutch kit. Sorry, but all you can do is baby it. Some shops I know of tell the customers that they resurface the flywheel but never do. I don't think the customer gets charged for it, but still. Ask to see a receipt for the resurface job.Thats why I do all my own work to avoid hackjobs like this one....Partyboy25 said:
Its not especially hard, just time consuming because many components are involved. Our transmission is "particularly unique" in the way that 3 or 4 bolts come in through the engine side and are hard to see and get to. Its easy if you know they are there though.
I'd suggest having someone there that has done a fwd clutch before- not necessarily on this car but any fwd car will do. Basically the same components have to come off no matter what brand of fwd car it is. I had a particularly easy time with my gf's civic. Its a very nicely engineered setup.
To answer the last question: you have to remove the transmission to inspect the clutch disk for wear, so its not all that easy/quick.
I'd suggest having someone there that has done a fwd clutch before- not necessarily on this car but any fwd car will do. Basically the same components have to come off no matter what brand of fwd car it is. I had a particularly easy time with my gf's civic. Its a very nicely engineered setup.
To answer the last question: you have to remove the transmission to inspect the clutch disk for wear, so its not all that easy/quick.
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Clutch chatter is when you are going into gear, lets say 1st, and the clutch skips as you let it out. Like it doesn't grab smooth. The seal you probably had replaced was the front seal, underneath the crankshaft pulley. Its a very common problem.Partyboy25 said:
I'm not sure the grinding sound has to do with the transmission. It could be your exhaust rattling at those particular RPM's, something along that line. Or like someone said earlier, the syncros could be wearing out.
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I drive a 1997 200SX SE-R....Original clutch still installed and running great. I thought I had problems with it earlier this year and ordered a new OEM one. The shop guy took it all out and was like why are you replacing this? It was barely worn. Come to find out the clutch cable was what needed to be replaced. The car runs great now. Even better after I installed the new B&M short shifter.
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115 Posts
You can't beat ACT. Their stage 1 kit worked wonders for my ride. No more slipping. In my opinion, worth the $300 for the kit.
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Yes my clutch as well kinda sucks I have to get used to it... It seems to stick alot!! kinda hating it
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