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hey people, i've got a few different problems going on w/ my car. (1). Let's say i've drove my car for a few minutes and the engine is warm (up to temperature), I go inside (home) for about 30 minutes, come back out to start my car again to go to work, and it starts up ok, EXCEPT it will start and instead of the rpm's jumping up to around 2000 and coming back down, it jumps up to around 1200 and falls immediately to 1000 rpms and sits there and then falls to normal rpm's. (800 or so). This just doesn't seem normal, basically when it does this it doesnt feel like it fully ignites the mixture in the engine. (2) sometimes i'll be sitting at a stop light, holding the clutch in, and my car will drop below 500 rpms and start to shake really bad for a few seconds and then rise to about 700 rpms again. REALLY ANNNOYING!! Same w/ turning from a stop light or turning out of a driveway. However I can turn my a/c on with it on either the heat side or the cold side, and the car will idle just fine around 1000 rpms without stalling, however if I turn my fan/a/c back off the car will drop idle and come close to stalling but never has.. very frustrating. If anyone has any possible ideas, please pass them along.

Mod's: Hs CAI / 2.25 custom (cat back) magnaflow exhaust. 17 inch rev wheels
 

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Sounds like a sensor issue. Someone else should chime in here because I am not nearly as knowledgeable about this stuff.
 

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nissan??? whats that
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Nostrodomas said:
All of you need to clean your IAC valve. Idol air control valve.
When you start your car does it rev up, then drop below idol quickly, then hesitates and sounds like its going to die. Sometimes going back to idol, and others stalling?
Then cleaning you IAC valve will cure this problem.
This is the valve:

If your inner cylinder is not green, you need to clean it. The inner barrel turns and vents air into your throttle body. Hence the name Idol Air Coltrol valve.
When carbon and sutt build up on the barrels, it doesnt want to open up as easily. Has a tendency to get stuck.
Go ahead and get a can of carb cleaner, and some q-tips.
Remove the two screws that holds the IAC onto the throttle body. You are going to have to use a large headed screwdriver. If not you will strip the screws.
Remove the eclectrical plug. Set it to the side.
Get your carb cleaner.Spray it onto the barrels, and wipe the grime away with your q-tip.
There is a thin paper gasket, if you are carfull enough you will not have to replace it.
Slap the valve back in its home, screw it down, replace elictrical plug.
Get into your car, start it up, and presto, problem solved.

Try that it might help w/ idleing problems
 

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Mofo
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[QUOTE='98200SXse]I've actually did that before, and it didn't solve my problem.[/QUOTE]
When was the last time you tried it? It really sounds like the IAC valve. I had the same exact problem. If you did it recently, then try cleaning out the throttlebody.
 

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Or EGR system. When my GER valve got stuck it kept the car from idling at all. Would barely run. Anything above idle and it was completely fine. Also might want to check timing and idle rpm. Hopefully this spring I will be able to clean the EGR/TB, check timing idle and finally get rid of my lumpy idle.

As far as starting the car after its warm and it not running as high of rpm, that's normal for me. Kind of like it doesn't need to go through the startup procedure because it knows it has already been running. I can't explain it but yes, the car will start up differently depending on how long it has set.
 
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