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Discussion Starter #1
Well, as i finished up pressure testing the clutch damper replacement line, i wanted to make sure it functioned properly, so, I jacked the rear up into the air, and checked for ANY wheel rotation with the clutch depressed. Success, none, no grinding into reverse either.

BUT, i couldnt help myself, I put it in 5th and revved it up to around...100mph, noisy and impressive!

But, the ECU didnt like it, it threw a CEL/SES light. Though it still runs and drives beautifullly.

THis is a 1997 ABS equipped 2wd truck, is there a sensor that can cause this?

How do I get the trouble code, is it the same as the old OBD1 ECU's? Turn the screw till it stops, then back?

Is there a list of codes somewhere?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Hmmmm.. thats weird, you should not have thrown any codes except for maybe the ABS light.. In 1997 they had OBDII and that requires a reader that you would plug in. If you look under your dash, right about where your left knee would sit while seated in the drivers seat, you will see the trapezoidal looking plug connector. Autozone used to allow you to borrow their reader to get the codes and even erase them. Sad to say, the smog nazi's and California have decided that you are no longer capable of doing that and now you have to buy a reader. I just bought one and it was about 130 dollars because I got the one that tells you what the codes mean. I would STRONGLY suggest buying one before they make it illegal for anyone without an expensive smog license to buy one. I guarantee you that legislation is just around the corner.

Why did they ban people from just borrowing them? Simple, people were using them to clear the codes right before they went into the smog check station without actually fixing the problem.

And the more I think of it, I would bet that your code had something to do with a reduced load on the engine and it most likely caused a misfire.

If you were close to me, we could look at it together..

' You can buy a cheaper version of the unit I bought, it just won't do much but read and erase.. most likely it will not tell you what the codes mean which in my humble opinion, sort of defeats the purpose of a code reader.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
SO even though that screw is on the comp, its not for codes anymore. Crap.

What make/model of reader did you get???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
BTW, a misfire throws a code? WTF, is it gonna throw codes if i clutch kill it too? Damn electronics lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wonderful, an engine thats a product of the 80's with a touchy 90's ecu

i probably should have bought a 95, no?
 

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im not sure about that.. No matter what year KA24E you buy, you get a great engine that really is a phenomenal workhorse and that give very little if any trouble. Yeah, OBDII can be a pain but I believe its also much more diagnostic and specific whereas OBDI was pretty general.

I would take this truck up against almost any Toyota out there.. The only Toyota that I would like to have and its only because of the engine itself, is the Tacoma 3.4L V6. That is one sweet engine.

You did ok with the Nissan.. I have had all of them, Toyota, Ford, Nissan Chevy and Dodge. Nissan Hardbody's are right at the top of the list.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh I wasnt having second thoughts on the nissan at all, im already in love with this thing, and I remember you saying before its not as refined as a car, hell, this is the most car like thing ive ever driven! lol

I have heard though that 1995.5's-1997's can be problematic due to the "new" at the time OBD2.
 

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yeah, its not the best system in the world.. but remember what I said before.. get your reader before they outlaw those as well... It WILL go the way of R12.
 
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