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Car has 130,000 miles, started running bad, rough and no power. Codes from computer showed cyl 3 misfire. Had fuel system cleaned problem was better for a week. Finalaly tested compresson and cyl 3 was 35 lbs less than others, about 125. Had engine completely rebuilt. New fuel inj, new fuel filter, fuel pressure reg, distrub, plugs, wires, O2 sensor,MAF, intake air sensor, and couple more (lost track). Car still idles rough gas milage stinks on about 18-20. Cleaned the EGR valve and cheaked the hoses to and from, but still getting code 1005, EGR silenoid valve. Haynes book not real clear on its location??? Just seems like every time I replace a sensor some other one pops up a code. Now $2500 into it I'm thinking I should have let the wife trade it in, but couldn't stand the thought of a car payment.
Any help would be much appreciated, and thank you in advance.
 

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the solenoid has 3 vacuum lines coming out of it and a electrical connector, if you follow the vacuum lines from the "BPT" valve (round,flat valve close to the EGR valve) you should see it (or stop by a dealer and have them print you a picture if the manual dosent show it)
 

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Biru O' Kudasai
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The EGR valve and EVAP Canister Purge Control solenoid is on the right to the EGR valve.
To diagnose the solenoid it should have battery voltage to it on the no. 1 terminal (on the left when it is disconnected and the connector lock up)
If you apply 12v to the two terminals and it clicks then it is working. Most of the time the solenoid is just bad though.

Are all the engine grounds good? I would do a voltage drop test at different points on the engine and the negative battery terminal. Any measurement over 0.2v should be corrected.

Troy
 
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