Bro, saw that you are owning a B14 with GA15DE engine is it. Can you give some pointer on what to do to improve my performance. I have fix up CAI and header. I still sourcing if there is Hotshot header for our engine or not? Is there any turbo kit or bigger rotor that can fit our car. Thanksshift_of_legend said:I wish I could help you, but I'm just not sure. My assumption is that they are the same, but I could be wrong. The thing is the head I assume is the same. If teh GA14DE doesn't have a VTC solenoid, then maybe the cams are different. In all honest, you would have to try them yourself.
I would love to do research on the GA series of engines, but for me, like many who have embarked on this path, it becomes a grand waste of time. The SR is simply a far superior engine.
I am still modifying my GA15DE, with basic bolt ons, and possibly nitrous, but the allure of a SR20 NA or tubo build is become ever more appealing.
Why swap cams though, why not the entire head of the GA16, so you can clean it up first with port and polish, 5 angle blend valve job. Maybe even advacne the intake cam 2 degrees and exhaust cam 1 degree.
Hotshot GA16DE headers will work. I have headers from ebay that are a copy of hotshot headers and it fits perfectly.georgecheng said:Bro, saw that you are owning a B14 with GA15DE engine is it. Can you give some pointer on what to do to improve my performance. I have fix up CAI and header. I still sourcing if there is Hotshot header for our engine or not? Is there any turbo kit or bigger rotor that can fit our car. Thanks
shift_of_legend said:Before you do anything expensive with your GA, realise that you will struggle to get 120 to the wheels with even cams and ECU. Where as you can easily have 140 to the wheels in an SR20 with the same mods. In fact you can get 120 with minor mods and tuning.
At maximum tuning, expect barely 150 WHP from a GA naturally aspirated, while a SR20 will give you 170-200WHP.
If you are a student and have no money for swaps and mods, then I understand the route you are taking. I would suggest to do what I intend to do. Put on the basics, Intake, Exhaust, Headers. Get an ECU upgrade, or fuel pressure regulator, or piggy back fuel controller and call it a day. Enjoy that for a while and save for a SR engine.
If you love the GA so much that you must continue then I suggest turbo. If you absolutely must experiment NA, then get used heads for as free as possibly. Hang out a garages, and wait till they throw out stuff or ask them if they will give you for free or cheap.
Nissan300ZXZ31Turbo said:I get tired of people suggesting dropping SR20s in every 4-cyl Nissan available. SR20s are not easy swaps for B-series chassis... it involves modifying the frame and firewall, as well as getting new CV axles and other parts that add up a bill quickly. You can pull well over 200 horsepower at the wheels from a GA series engine, you just have to know what to do. Performance camshafts, performance ECU, advanced timing, KA24 or CA20 fuel injectors, KA24 or CA20 fuel pump, port & polished cylinder head, headers, good exhaust system, Unorthodox crank pulley, performance flywheel, and a few other miscellaneous parts will give you around 200 horses. That is more than enough for a B-series chassis to make a great run in a quarter or eighth mile. All of those items cost less than it would to have a garage install an SR20 and purchase the stock engine itself. I have worked on SR20s, and they are great engines, but they are not the only good 4-cyl Nissan ever made. Both the GA series, CA series, and KA series are all good platforms. As for the performance ECU and cams fitting on your engine, just buy a GA16DE cylinder head and put it on your block. They are both GA series engines, so the cylinder head should fit without any complications. Your engine is already a twin cam, so timing should not be difficult, as well as MPFI, so you could probably use both your stock exhaust and intake manifolds. Then you can fit your cams... and the ECU, but you can always adjust the fuel regulator to reduce the richness.
buhahah, yea right, the max right now is like 115whp and that is from mike sakis. You will not get high numbers like that without spending 10 grand.shift_of_legend said:At maximum tuning, expect barely 150 WHP from a GA naturally aspirated
yours is in BHP, not WHP. there is a difference. Convert yours to whp and you will have around 105whp. which is normal for those mods.sparki said:
yes, if you have 124bhp.. you will multiply that by the amount lost from the transmission to the wheels. Essentially, i believe our is around 22%, so you actualy prolly have less. Look up on google how to convert it.sparki said:You sure you can convert UK bhp to US whp ?
Well... my Ga14 motot currently makes 78Kw at the wheels - so that puts it at 104WHP and 126BHP.... And that was before I added the ITB's this weekend - will have the new power figures after the weekend as she is being mapped and properly set up on Friday - will post some Dyno sheets to prove then...psuLemon said:yes, if you have 124bhp.. you will multiply that by the amount lost from the transmission to the wheels. Essentially, i believe our is around 22%, so you actualy prolly have less. Look up on google how to convert it.
so really, it would be less cuz the first conversion was based off a 15% loss. with a 22% loss, its 98whp.
check out www.sentra.net see what he has done to his car. Its only put out like 115whp.