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I'm lookin at buildin up a 1.6 Sentra a lil bit. I wanna take it up to around 140-150 HP if possible.

does anybody have a list, and locations of where i can find cheap performance parts for one??

Also, can parts from an SR20, or KA18 be used on the GA16??
 

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1. There's no such thing as "cheap performance parts". they are either good or not. If you go cheaps 9 times out of 10 they will fail or be replaced when you want something better.
2. No. No parts from the Sr20 or ka18 fit the Ga16. They are totally different motors.
3. A stock 1.6 sentra has about 90-95 maybe 100 whp. To gain that much gain will take some doing. If it's an automatic then IMO it's not worth the mods.
4. 1st mod should be a tune-up (plugs, wires, cap&rotor, oil change, tranny flush, etc)
5. Next you can get I/H/E = Intake/Header/Exhaust which wil give some decent gains but make sure and reseach what you want before you buy. Find out what's best.

GL with project.
 

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140-150 hp is not realistic for the GA with bolt-ons. Even a full I/H/E and advanced timing will not pull you over 120 whp. To come close to that kind of power without going boost will require I/H/E, cams, timing, UR pulleys, etc., all negating the "cheap" factor.
 

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140-150 hp is not realistic for the GA with bolt-ons. Even a full I/H/E and advanced timing will not pull you over 120 whp. To come close to that kind of power without going boost will require I/H/E, cams, timing, UR pulleys, etc., all negating the "cheap" factor.
agreed. X2
 

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yeah, the JWT cams are not cheap., and I/H/E will barely take you to 120bhp. whp on b13 and b14's isn't even 100hp. the 110 and 115 posted ponies are the engine hp numbers.

here's a list of what you can do to an N/A GA to get more horsepower though. i'll start with inexpensive and move up to expensive.

1. advance the timing to 10* BTDC (FREE, but you must use high octane, 91 would be best)
2. make an intake by buying a proper cone filter, some appropriate sized BLACK ABS piping, and putting it in the position you would like with appropriate bends
3. Headers: there are two brands that make headers for our cars. pacesetter and OBX racing. you can sometiems find either one on ebay for considerably cheaper, OR you can find OBX replica ones on ebay for A LOT less.
4. Exhaust: Pace setter makes this. it's not cheap for a 2 1/4" cat-back
5. fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel: $400, lightens up the rotating weight, therefore the crankshaft is able to produce more horsepower, as less is needed to rotate it.
6. Porting and polishing: well, its expensive.
7. JWT cams. these are expensive.
8. higher compression forged pistons and con-rods. most expensive mod.

with all of this done, you'd probably have about $4-5000 spent, and still not have that much power comparatively. you would be over your target, but you still wouldn't have much power for $4000+ spent on parts. things you would need that aren't listed there, that would be needed just to accomodate things would be higher performance clutch, better spark plugs and wires, bigger injectors, an ECU tune or programmable standalone.

with everything said and done, if you can do it yourself, i'd say it'll cost you minimum $6000. if you need someone to do it for you, it would be $10000+. and that would be for at most, 200whp.

Not worth it.

get the turbo kit for it and call it a day. will cost you $2500 for the intercooled kit with SAFC2 and a couple other nice little goodies. if the t20 is too small for you, you can have them upgrade it to a t25 or t25bb.
 

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My 95 200sx, has a GA16 and came stock around 110 hp. 140 is reachable. Get some new headers, RAM intake or CAI, get a new exhaust system and run it straight pipe. Run synthetic oil to, mine is pushing 130-140 hp. It has a custom exhaust running without a cat converter. Magna flow muffler, Short air intake with a mass air flow filter, with just that i got a good boost of power. The cat converter blocks a lot of air causing some back pressure, get rid of that and the air just flows through. Its not legal but if the car is a 95 or older they wont check it.
 

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My 95 200sx, has a GA16 and came stock around 110 hp. 140 is reachable. Get some new headers, RAM intake or CAI, get a new exhaust system and run it straight pipe. Run synthetic oil to, mine is pushing 130-140 hp. It has a custom exhaust running without a cat converter. Magna flow muffler, Short air intake with a mass air flow filter, with just that i got a good boost of power. The cat converter blocks a lot of air causing some back pressure, get rid of that and the air just flows through. Its not legal but if the car is a 95 or older they wont check it.
man, those mods are good for at most, 10-12hp at the flywheel. not 30... the type of oil you use does not add horsepower. it can increase the efficiency of your engine, making it run smoother, but really, running a better oil isn't a true-fire way to gain horses.
 

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Actually a good I/H/E can gain a good 14 whp according to some NPM guys(I think it was NPM who did this). Here is a link to their project and how they achieved their numbers: Project Nissan 200SX 1.6: Part 2 - Project Cars - Sport Compact Car Magazine

Note that these guys are not using cheap parts here. No ebay stuff, only the best that was ever made for the GA. They dynoed the 1.6 at 91 Whp stock. Keep in mind that is the B14 1.6 that got the extra 5 hp over the B13 1.6. They went with a MANDREL bent catback into a perforated core muffler. That's $$$ right there. They went with a Hotshot header and a Hotshot CAI, also $$$ and difficult to find right now. That would be considered about the finest I/H/E money can buy for the 1.6 and it got 105whp. Add the Underdrive pulley and advanced timing and you get 107whp. Let's assume that we would only go with an I/H/E, which is what most of us do. We will get 105 whp at best with the finest parts available.

This article is what I used as a guide for my own I/H/E. Since Hotshot is no longer in business I had to improvise for the header and intake. For the intake I was planning on making my own copy of the Hotshot one using prebent mandrel pipes or turbo piping but I found an intake on ebay that is almost an exact clone of the HS one, 2.5 inch to 3 inch stepped diameter and all. But seriously, it won't make a huge difference which intake you use. I had to go with a Weapon R header since I could not locate a used HS. Ironically I had a HS header a couple years ago that I sold after my other Sentra got totalled. Having had both headers in hand I can confirm that the Weapon R is a pretty good clone of the HS and should make similar power. The WR is much more expensive than the OBX/NoName stuff you find on Ebay though. For the catback I got some 2 inch mandrel bends(ebay again) and will have it welded together with maybe a Cherry Bomb glasspack and ending in a good straight through Magnaflow muffler. I think it's pretty close to what those guys did. But it still ain't cheap.
 

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my nx1600 has i/h/e, dynod 107 whp and 108 wtq on a mustang dyno. if you factor in the 15% loss from flywheel to wheels its about 123 bhp. these are NOT numbers to brag about but i just wanted to see how little i had (with 235,000 km) so when the faster cars at track days wonder why they cant loose me i'll say "ah man you couldnt get away from 107 whp?!?" lol. but anyway 140 hp with bolt ons?? get outta here
 

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Actually a good I/H/E can gain a good 14 whp according to some NPM guys(I think it was NPM who did this). Here is a link to their project and how they achieved their numbers: Project Nissan 200SX 1.6: Part 2 - Project Cars - Sport Compact Car Magazine

Note that these guys are not using cheap parts here. No ebay stuff, only the best that was ever made for the GA. They dynoed the 1.6 at 91 Whp stock. Keep in mind that is the B14 1.6 that got the extra 5 hp over the B13 1.6. They went with a MANDREL bent catback into a perforated core muffler. That's $$$ right there. They went with a Hotshot header and a Hotshot CAI, also $$$ and difficult to find right now. That would be considered about the finest I/H/E money can buy for the 1.6 and it got 105whp. Add the Underdrive pulley and advanced timing and you get 107whp. Let's assume that we would only go with an I/H/E, which is what most of us do. We will get 105 whp at best with the finest parts available.

This article is what I used as a guide for my own I/H/E. Since Hotshot is no longer in business I had to improvise for the header and intake. For the intake I was planning on making my own copy of the Hotshot one using prebent mandrel pipes or turbo piping but I found an intake on ebay that is almost an exact clone of the HS one, 2.5 inch to 3 inch stepped diameter and all. But seriously, it won't make a huge difference which intake you use. I had to go with a Weapon R header since I could not locate a used HS. Ironically I had a HS header a couple years ago that I sold after my other Sentra got totalled. Having had both headers in hand I can confirm that the Weapon R is a pretty good clone of the HS and should make similar power. The WR is much more expensive than the OBX/NoName stuff you find on Ebay though. For the catback I got some 2 inch mandrel bends(ebay again) and will have it welded together with maybe a Cherry Bomb glasspack and ending in a good straight through Magnaflow muffler. I think it's pretty close to what those guys did. But it still ain't cheap.
that's the point. it isn't cheap. and actually the JWT ecu tune was probably wat squeaked out those extra gains more than anything.

also, a CAI is not the same as the simple intakes you see that most people use on their GA's here. a CAI is more than just a cone filter on a short tube to a part of the engine bay that's less hot. a proper CAI redirects the filter to a part of the car where it's actually sucking COLD AIR, such as the wheel well, or the front bumper area much like an inter cooler.

also, you missed that they did a JWT ecu tune. that's probably what pulled out the numbers more than anything. they charge $500-600 for an ecu tune.

truth be told, if you were to reproduce what they did, you'd still be in the $1800-2000 range. the bolt on turbo kits are much cheaper power comparitively.
 

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that's the point. it isn't cheap. and actually the JWT ecu tune was probably wat squeaked out those extra gains more than anything.

also, a CAI is not the same as the simple intakes you see that most people use on their GA's here. a CAI is more than just a cone filter on a short tube to a part of the engine bay that's less hot. a proper CAI redirects the filter to a part of the car where it's actually sucking COLD AIR, such as the wheel well, or the front bumper area much like an inter cooler.

also, you missed that they did a JWT ecu tune. that's probably what pulled out the numbers more than anything. they charge $500-600 for an ecu tune.

truth be told, if you were to reproduce what they did, you'd still be in the $1800-2000 range. the bolt on turbo kits are much cheaper power comparitively.
Actually, the last section states that the JWT ECU brought the total to 108whp with the ECU accounting for 2 of those. The 105 number I added up only includes the I/H/E and omits the Underdrive pulley, advanced timing, and ECU which I figure most of us wouldn't do. In fact their math is a bit off as their numbers don't add up. Read over it and you'll see what I mean. So I don't know if 105 or 106 is the more accurate number. As for intakes, I figure that since the HS is tested to make 3 and is the best, you'd probably get 1-2 from other intakes, be they WAIs or another brand of CAI. Not much difference in hp but I guess every bit counts. I think what we can learn is that the biggest gains will be made from the header and the catback so if you have a budget, then prioritize those two.
 

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Well, my engine is also new, i have had it replaced. My magna flow alone cost me 650, the exhaust piping cost close to 1000, its not straight bolt on. My intake is, but I looked long and hard for a good one. Also there is a lot less back pressure running straight pipe, no filters to go through except the muffler.
 

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Well, my engine is also new, i have had it replaced. My magna flow alone cost me 650, the exhaust piping cost close to 1000, its not straight bolt on. My intake is, but I looked long and hard for a good one. Also there is a lot less back pressure running straight pipe, no filters to go through except the muffler.
You paid 1650$ for your exhaust?:eek:
 

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Actually, the last section states that the JWT ECU brought the total to 108whp with the ECU accounting for 2 of those. The 105 number I added up only includes the I/H/E and omits the Underdrive pulley, advanced timing, and ECU which I figure most of us wouldn't do. In fact their math is a bit off as their numbers don't add up. Read over it and you'll see what I mean. So I don't know if 105 or 106 is the more accurate number. As for intakes, I figure that since the HS is tested to make 3 and is the best, you'd probably get 1-2 from other intakes, be they WAIs or another brand of CAI. Not much difference in hp but I guess every bit counts. I think what we can learn is that the biggest gains will be made from the header and the catback so if you have a budget, then prioritize those two.
honestly, all this article proves to me is that it costs money to make power in a GA. plain and simple. you can go I/H/E, but you still won't make much, and if you buy the good stuff, it'll cost you nearly $1000 still. and you can't get the HS intake anymore. you would have to build one of equal value.

and WAI's don't increase power at this low power of an engine. take a 200hp engine, and yeah, you'll make some gains. not much, but some. on a small, low ouput engine, you need a CAI for a visible gain. a WAI just looks and sounds cool. also, those guys would have been smarter to go with a lightweight flywheel instead of the pulley.
 

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honestly, all this article proves to me is that it costs money to make power in a GA. plain and simple. you can go I/H/E, but you still won't make much, and if you buy the good stuff, it'll cost you nearly $1000 still. and you can't get the HS intake anymore. you would have to build one of equal value.

and WAI's don't increase power at this low power of an engine. take a 200hp engine, and yeah, you'll make some gains. not much, but some. on a small, low ouput engine, you need a CAI for a visible gain. a WAI just looks and sounds cool. also, those guys would have been smarter to go with a lightweight flywheel instead of the pulley.
It wasn't their intention to show how it could be done cheaply but to show what COULD be done. They spared no expense but whether one can do it cheaply depends entirely on what your definition of "cheap" is.
 

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I don't agree with going with the flywheel instead of the pulley. Part of what they did was take the easier mod route. How many people do you know are willing to just drop the tranny and put in a flywheel. I would only do the flywheel at the same time as a clutch personally. I have the pulley and it does make a rather noticeable difference. Same with a WAI. Its not all about numbers people. Its about making the car work the best it can. The intake and pulley are prob the best I have found. Hell its an ebay intake. No different than any other WAI. Filter is cheaper but after the miles this car got from previous owners with dirty filters im not to worried about a couple of extra microns getting through. As for the original posters question. Research before you just take our words and wisdom. We can yell at you all day and it wont help as much as reading and looking, then also going out to your car and deciding what you like best. DO you want strip car or a car that is fun in the corners?
Corners go for suspension and removing weight. Add the other items as you find them. The cold air intake that someone posted about on the forum looks like one hell of a deal. Its under ebay find $50 bucks or something like that. But in the end it will be what you want that suits you best. Personally if you can find a underdrive pulley that has made the biggest noticeable difference to me. Engine just seems happier and peppy. Wants to go more. Thats what I look for. Not a monster but a happy little peppy engine that just always wants to go more. Wow that sounds so stupid but its how I feel.
 

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I would rather say that if you want a better feeling of the road find yourself a manual rack and pinion set and remove the power steering unit. One less pulley to drive for the engine. For myself I got a 2¼" exhaust pipe from a obx header, high flow cat, magnaflow resonator and a 01 pathfinder resonator as a muffler, make a good sound. For winter I can put on the oe muffler and it become quiet. I only have a cone filter and a hand made wall for "cold air" filter, but if I put back the oe filter box with a K&N af it remains the same with less sound. As lucky I were, all these parts were given to me from the guy who I bought the car or I find them at my job in a garage, so... I wonder how it could cost. Don't forget that the sentra is a lightweight car, about 1000Kg (sorry don't have in lbs) so it's a ratio about 10 ponies to the kg. Also, the GA don't have LSD tranny (unless you want to open it), the SR have it. An engine swap is much better for more power, otherwise I'll buy a Maxima or a G20 for much power.
 

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No one agrees to bulit uo a GA?


thats why im just saving up for the Bluebird SR20 swap? u guys think i should just do that?
built up GA's are totally possible. it's just not cheap. it costs. you can get a bluebird sr20DET in for under 3000, and the power output is higher than you're going to get with twice as much money put into an N/A GA. you build up a GA because you want to. NOT because you want the best power for your buck in your sentra. i'm still incredibly torn on whether to convert my GA16i to a GA16E and use the DE turbo kit with a T25BB, or to go with a mean N/A setup using ITB's.
 
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