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Discussion Starter #1
Okay guys newby here with a bit of a problem, I've got a 2004 Pathfinder 4WD I just bought that's just starting to develop the body wobble issue at acceleration and deceleration around 55 miles an hour. I can get a complete replacement set of the upper and lower control/trailing arms from A1 Auto for 115 bucks with free shipping but my question is am I better off replacing the arms entirely, or just replacing the bushings with the urethane ones. Because the only urethane bushings I found are 250 bucks for the whole set and then I have to worry about pressing the old ones out and pressing the new ones in. I should also probably mention that I'm in the Rust Belt and even though I just bought the truck judging by the amount of General rust on the underside it's probably been in the Rust Belt its entire life. I've got a friend who has all of the parts and is going to do the labor with me so I'm trying to figure out what's the best balance between finance and ease of install and reliability
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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IMO, you're better off with replacing the entire control arm/bushings installed and trailing arm from RockAuto.com ; price - $30 - $45 per piece. Replacing bushings is a royal pain in the ass.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, that's the way I was leaning I just wanted to have somebody with some experience let me know that my mind was thinking the right way. It's one thing to throw a truck on 4 jack stands and undo some bolts with a buddy who's got the tools, but it's something entirely different to try and use a blow torch to melt out a bushing and then have to use an air chisel to knock out the metal outer wall and then press in urethane bushings onto control alarms that have 170,000 miles on them
 

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Thanks, that's the way I was leaning I just wanted to have somebody with some experience let me know that my mind was thinking the right way. It's one thing to throw a truck on 4 jack stands and undo some bolts with a buddy who's got the tools, but it's something entirely different to try and use a blow torch to melt out a bushing and then have to use an air chisel to knock out the metal outer wall and then press in urethane bushings onto control alarms that have 170,000 miles on them
Definitely replace the whole thing, I did them on my 02 pathfinder and it was fairly easy and I only had to do the lower ones and it stopped the wobble, but the kit from rockauto came with both upper and lower so I have them if I need them. Good luck, that death wobble can get pretty hairy.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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I agree with those above in that you should replace the entire link assemblies. I would also get new bolts from Nissan, as they often seize to the steel sleeve in the bushings and have to be cut out with a Sawzall. If you are replacing them with the suspension hanging, have a cum-along handy! Attach the hook at the main end to a crossmember and wrap the cable around the passenger side of the axle (go under the brake line so you don't crush it). This is because the axle will want to push back when you remove the bolt and you'll need the cum-along to pull the axle forward to line up the holes of the link and bracket so you can get the second bolt back in. I'm primarily talking about the passenger side, upper-rear suspension link. Before you fully-torque the bolts, the weight of the vehicle should be on the suspension (read: vehicle wheels on the ground or on a wheel alignment rack). Bushing replacement is a real pain! I replaced a set bushings-only "back in the day" and swore, "Never again!" Some brands, like Dorman, have a limited-lifetime warranty on their link assemblies.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the advice guys, I was trying to figure out my best options here.thought I got a great deal on it from someone who turned out to be a grimey used car salesman who said he was doing me a favor by selling it to me as a private sale so I didn't have to pay the dealership fees. when he really did it because he knew it had a bad front passenger catalytic converter and an EVAP air leak. so he cleared the codes before selling it to me in as-is condition. As you can imagine I am not a happy camper with him lol
 
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