Replace the plugs with OEM NGK's and re test it. I would also check for other vacuum leaks. The dist. is more than likely not the culprit but I wouldn't rule it out completely.enigmaticsb said:1993 Nissan Sentra SE 1.6L Manual. When reaching 35-40 MPH range there is a light-moderate thud/jerking when the accelerator is tapped to increase speed. It will do it at other speeds but not as noticable. Idle RPM is 1500 when cold and eventually lowers down to 1000-750.
Also, I noticed a strange behavior when the car is in neutral, I lightly press down on the accelerator and hold it steady and the RPMs go up and down in a repeatable pattern until I release my foot from the accelerator.
This all started to happen after a leak was found in a vacuum line, before the leak was fixed the car had very poor acceleration and would often die at an intersection when in idle.
I took the car to a nissan dealer, they told me it was a bad distributor but I would like another opinion since I don't really trust them 100%. My regular mechanic wasn't really sure what it could be off hand. I told the nissan dealer I had replaced the rotor, cap, and plugs with bosch platinum plugs, the kind that you don't have to gap, I didn't replace the wires. I told the dealer that I had also adjusted the rotor by hand and they then told me that in my car I should have never turned the rotor and that could have caused the distributor to go bad.
I have been reading alot about the NGK plugs and plan to get those soon. However in the mean time I would like to know if the distributor could be the culprit. Any ideas on what to check and or replace would be helpful. Could it possibly be cause of the aftermarket rotor or cap, or the type of plugs I am using?
Thanks,
Shane
Acceleration Hesitation Problem
1993 Nissan Sentra SE 1.6L Manual. When reaching 35-40 MPH range there is a light-moderate thud/jerking when the accelerator is tapped to increase speed. It will do it at other speeds but not as noticable. Idle RPM is 1500 when cold and eventually lowers down to 1000-750.
Also, I noticed a strange behavior when the car is in neutral, I lightly press down on the accelerator and hold it steady and the RPMs go up and down in a repeatable pattern until I release my foot from the accelerator.
This all started to happen after a leak was found in a vacuum line, before the leak was fixed the car had very poor acceleration and would often die at an intersection when in idle.
I took the car to a nissan dealer, they told me it was a bad distributor but I would like another opinion since I don't really trust them 100%. My regular mechanic wasn't really sure what it could be off hand. I told the nissan dealer I had replaced the rotor, cap, and plugs with bosch platinum plugs, the kind that you don't have to gap, I didn't replace the wires. I told the dealer that I had also adjusted the rotor by hand and they then told me that in my car I should have never turned the rotor and that could have caused the distributor to go bad.
I have been reading alot about the NGK plugs and plan to get those soon. However in the mean time I would like to know if the distributor could be the culprit. Any ideas on what to check and or replace would be helpful. Could it possibly be cause of the aftermarket rotor or cap, or the type of plugs I am using?
Thanks,
Shane
Also, I noticed a strange behavior when the car is in neutral, I lightly press down on the accelerator and hold it steady and the RPMs go up and down in a repeatable pattern until I release my foot from the accelerator.
This all started to happen after a leak was found in a vacuum line, before the leak was fixed the car had very poor acceleration and would often die at an intersection when in idle.
I took the car to a nissan dealer, they told me it was a bad distributor but I would like another opinion since I don't really trust them 100%. My regular mechanic wasn't really sure what it could be off hand. I told the nissan dealer I had replaced the rotor, cap, and plugs with bosch platinum plugs, the kind that you don't have to gap, I didn't replace the wires. I told the dealer that I had also adjusted the rotor by hand and they then told me that in my car I should have never turned the rotor and that could have caused the distributor to go bad.
I have been reading alot about the NGK plugs and plan to get those soon. However in the mean time I would like to know if the distributor could be the culprit. Any ideas on what to check and or replace would be helpful. Could it possibly be cause of the aftermarket rotor or cap, or the type of plugs I am using?
Thanks,
Shane
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Replace the plugs with OEM NGK's and re test it. I would also check for other vacuum leaks. The dist. is more than likely not the culprit but I wouldn't rule it out completely.enigmaticsb said:
I agree with Wes, the distributor probably not the problem. Sounds like your throttle body and IACV should be cleaned. The bosch plugs do not work well with our cars for some reason, check out www.sentra.net for more information.
rotor
Shane
thanks for the advice, did i do the wrong thing adjusting the rotor by hand? I have it set in the middle so the engine doesn't ping. another thing I might do is check the ecu for any error codes that are listed on sentra.netKindfiend said:I agree with Wes, the distributor probably not the problem. Sounds like your throttle body and IACV should be cleaned. The bosch plugs do not work well with our cars for some reason, check out www.sentra.net for more information.
Shane
Yes you can get sluggishness and hesitation if the timing is retarded too much. You need to check the timing with a timing light using the correct procedure.enigmaticsb said:thanks for the advice, did i do the wrong thing adjusting the rotor by hand? I have it set in the middle so the engine doesn't ping. another thing I might do is check the ecu for any error codes that are listed on sentra.net
Shane
Check Plugs and Wires, Clean EGR (carb cleaner) and check vacuum tubes.
Not wires or plugs.
Replaced wires and installed new ngk plugs, checked timing of rotor. still same problem. I am starting to thing more that it's vacuum related. I am no mechanic but is there a way I can check the vacuum tubes myself, I assume they are the ones coming in for the air intake. also, can I clean the egr myself with some additive or do I need to remove it and take it apart to clean.fanl said:Check Plugs and Wires, Clean EGR (carb cleaner) and check vacuum tubes.
If you followed the correct procedure for timing, then I would say check the condition of the various hoses. Sometimes the ends get dry rotted and cracked. As for the EGR, don't use any cleaners in it as it will damage the diaphram. Generally, the tube leading from the exhaust to the EGR gets clogged with some really tough stuff. It's ok to take apart the EGR but there is a gasket that you should replace. You just want to make sure the diaphram moves freely. Good luck!enigmaticsb said:Replaced wires and installed new ngk plugs, checked timing of rotor. still same problem. I am starting to thing more that it's vacuum related. I am no mechanic but is there a way I can check the vacuum tubes myself, I assume they are the ones coming in for the air intake. also, can I clean the egr myself with some additive or do I need to remove it and take it apart to clean.
buy an 3M carb cleaner ($5) take the egr valve off, its is very easy to do, and take all vacuum hoses off too, inspect for any leakage on hoses, and use carb cleaner on the egr where exhaust gases flow, not on the "pressure cam". You can use the carb cleaner on the holes of the exhaust and trottle body connect on the egr too...
its like play lego !! lol !
probably, after this your engine will be fine =] thats what i did on mine.
its like play lego !! lol !
probably, after this your engine will be fine =] thats what i did on mine.
yes ! do not use any cleaner on DIAPHRAM.. just on down part of egr !Kindfiend said:If you followed the correct procedure for timing, then I would say check the condition of the various hoses. Sometimes the ends get dry rotted and cracked. As for the EGR, don't use any cleaners in it as it will damage the diaphram. Generally, the tube leading from the exhaust to the EGR gets clogged with some really tough stuff. It's ok to take apart the EGR but there is a gasket that you should replace. You just want to make sure the diaphram moves freely. Good luck!
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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