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Tune it
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Terran's right about overcooling and undercooling the engine, plus the constant high amp draw is whats dangerous. I'm going to hook you up though and show you a safer way. All you need is what you've used your old harness from your stock electric single fan, a 30amp relay, some wire connectors for the relay, and a test light.

1st unwire the fans
2nd cut the harness from the old fan and crimp or solder the wires to the battery side fan.
3rd connect the old harnesses back together and now that fan only turns on when the A/C is on.



4th Now to wire the relay. With your test light find a wire that is hot when the ignition is on and not on when it's not. I would look under the dash. Clip a wire on to that to run to the relay # 85
5th Disconnect the negative battery cable, we won't need anynore power till the end.
6th Find a good spot between the battery and the hot (ignition on) wire to mount your relay
7th Run a ground wire from #86 to ground.
8th You run your 30amp in line fuse wire to the relay from the battery to #30 on the relay
9th you run the power wire from the other fan to #87 on the relay
10th You ground that fans ground wire.

Now reconnect your battery and turn the ignition key on. You should hear and see only the driver side fan running. Then turn on your A/C and see if the other fan turns on as well. This is all you need and works great!

Keep it clean and keep it smart.
 

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Super-Mod with a 240
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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Terran200sx said:
How good's your memory? Seriously though, you don't really want to be overcooling or undercooling your engine, in the long run it's cheaper to wire them correctly and not have to worry about it. That highvoltages switch is fairly dangerous, i knew a kid who had some POS wal-fart fogs that were wireed like that, and the switch melted to his dash one night. Same reason they don't put Ammeters in cars anymore, too much voltage in one place. That and it's going ot be a real pain to have to think about those fans every single time you turn your car on.

Thanks for your concern Terran. So far, I haven't forgotten to switch the fan on when deemed necessary. It's in the 20* F - 30* F temperature-range outside, which should more than keep the car around normal operating temperature. Right now, the only time I turn the fans on is when I'm sitting at a red light. Other than that, they stay off.


ittamaticstatic, therein lies the problem. The A/C doesn't work. If it did, I'd have gone that route already. I didn't do this without asking others around how they did it. And this is just a preliminary setup. During the spring, I'll be overhauling the whole engine bay. Instead of this kind of setup, I'll be going with a sensor (of sorts), that'll turn on the fans based on the temperature of the coolant. It'll turn on the fans at say 205*, and turn them off at around 180*. These sensors come with different sensitivities, depending on your needs. And I'll do the same thing as I did with the setup I already have, i.e., use a 30-amp fuse to keep it from burning the fan motors. So I'll be taking that route eventually.

This write-up was not really meant for someone to use as a permanent setup. My stock fan had taken a crap, and I needed a cooling solution ASAP, so this was the best available option for me at the moment. I'll sticky this just in case someone needs to have a primitive setup just to start with (but not use as a permanent option), and also to show credit to ittamaticstatic's post on one of the ways of doing in correctly.
 

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Harris said:
Thanks for your concern Terran. So far, I haven't forgotten to switch the fan on when deemed necessary. It's in the 20* F - 30* F temperature-wise outside, which should more than keep the car around normal operating temperature. Right now, the only time I turn the fans on is when I'm sitting at a red light. Other than that, they stay off.


ittamaticstatic, therein lies the problem. The A/C doesn't work. If it did, I'd have gone that route already. I didn't do this without asking others around how they did it. And this is just a preliminary setup. During the spring, I'll be overhauling the whole engine bay. Instead of this kind of setup, I'll be going with a sensor (of sorts), that'll turn on the fans based on the temperature of the coolant. It'll turn on the fans at say 205*, and turn them off at around 180*. These sensors come with different sensitivities, depending on your needs. And I'll do the same thing as I did with the setup I already have, i.e., use a 30-amp fuse to keep it from burning the fan motors. So I'll be taking that route eventually.

This write-up was not really meant for someone to use as a permanent setup. My stock fan had taken a crap, and I needed a cooling solution ASAP, so this was the best available option for me at the moment. I'll sticky this just in case someone needs to have a primitive setup just to start with (but not use as a permanent option), and also to show credit to ittamaticstatic's post on one of the ways of doing in correctly.

As long as people are aware that it is not a perminant solution. The temp guages in the car arn't accuate enough to really tell you when to switch them on and off and it can do bad things to your motor in short order.
 

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Finally got a user title
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I've actually heard of people with the stock KA running no fan and they didn't have any problems with overheating unless they left the car just sitting there.
 

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Super-Mod with a 240
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Re-read the posts and you'll see the parts list.


Effective reading is essential, my friend.
 

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Paddle Shifted
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I actually meant to PM you about a detailed parts list but it seems your system was flawed. So I replied with the hopes that someone would compile a definitive solution to the installation. Unfortunately, it seems from the dozen other electrical fan posts that this is a matter of preference. Great sticky though!

Parts ex.

1X 20 Amp #SWS-MAX20
3 ft. 18 gauge blue electrical wire
4X electrical butt connectors #SUM-890057
etc, etc.

Here is a kick ass solution Greddy Multi Switch
 

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Tune it
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504 Posts
A 30amp relay, 30amp fuse and 10 Gauge wire at least. A 40amp relay, 40amp fuse and 8 gauge wire would be ideal. I recommend soldering the wires and only using connectors on the relay.

Also if you get the chance stop by your local junkyard and grab some nissan relays. I did and it cleans it up even more.
 

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Paddle Shifted
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I want to thank everyone for this sticky, it inspired me to try a electric fan set-up on Rusty. I did things a bit different though. I got some electric fans out of a 91 Sentra (GXE?) which came out in two separate fans/shrouds. They both fit the KA radiator with ease. The fan motors had 4 wires: blue, black, green, yellow. I used the blue for power and black as ground.

The fan (Main) nearest to the drivers side, had the power wire mushed into the fuel pump fuse and the ground wire bolted to the headlight ground.

The fan (Aux) nearest the passenger side was butt connected into what used to be my A/C?? fan plug. It was a plug that attached to my old secondary fan on the radiator. It had a brown/white wire and black wire. I spliced the black with the black and the brown/white with the blue. I assume that the black wire was ground and the brown/white was power.

After many hours and many snapped bolts, 2 total thats why its called Rusty, I turned the ignition on first. Bam! the main fan started right up. I let the car idle till it reached half way on the water temp. The aux fan hasn't come on yet so it makes me wonder if I wired it right. I turned on the A/C to see if it would but nada. I figure it the main fan is doing its job well for now.

I have yet to drive the car so we'll see how it holds up. Later this week I'm installing some gauges so we'll see what kind of temps the fans hold. I'll say this, removing that clutch fan actually lets you see your engine. Thanks for the write up guys.

Parts:
two 91 Sentra fans
long black zip ties 30 pack
8 meter 10ga wire (red)
1 assortment pack full of solderless connectors(8-22ga)
 

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I have been looking at this post for some time...And am adding a few things for my setup....Since I live in TX and sometimes stuck in traffic for a long tim I am adding a 2nd relay a temp sensor for fan 2 and LED's that i am going to have in my dash for verifying fan 1 and fan 2 running.

First fan will run constantly
2nd fan will kick on when temp reaches(???) (not sure what to set this too any suggestions)
I will attach a wiring diagram.

Build parts list
2 Taurus Fans
2 12v 30/40a relays
2 lights and screw in holders Light one to show fan 1 is working light 2 to show when 2nd fan engages
1 temp switch adjustable surface mount (mounting it to the center of the radiator should work but will be testing the temp ranges of the radiator..Any Suggestions)



 

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How did they fit..mine just came today...I will be working on it next week. Either way ill post pics
 

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Cool......Got mine on ebay .. taurus fans for sure....Looked up the number stamped on them...2000cfm per fan...well it will be tuesday befor i get a chance to instll them
 

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Ok Finally done all the wires temp sensors and lights relays etc etc hooked up....Here are some pics enjoy.....

Blue light is Fan 1 normally running and Orange light is Fan 2 temp dependent 130deg it goes on so far.










 

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nice write up!
 

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i did the electric fan conversion when i looked and figured out that my belt fan was cracked and ready to give
,<br> i put a ten inch fan on the outside(puller) and 15inch from a old school chevy diesel (oh yea its cold) <br>
and it keeps running colder than it did before, along with my new exhaust intake and 93 octane it made the difference in a race with a 06 mustang, it went from about 6-7 cars to a car and a half in a quarter (still tore that ass in the 1/8th though)
 
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