[D21jrc9009]

Ok so, after just recently fixing an engine issue, i have decided to lower this truck. It's a 2 wheel drive reg. cab with the ka24e in it. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on lowering this truck? I don't want to use airbags, too expensive. Hopefully someone can come up with an answer for me. I know on the toyota's you could just "flip" the torsion bars, but I don't think you can do it on this. Any help?

 

[D21jrc9009]

sorry guys. 1992 hardbody.

 

[Skinny G]

Just lowered mine this weekend:

Lowering the Hideous Hardbody - Mr. Wellwood

Nutshell:

• 3" blocks for the back
  
• Unwind front torsion bars
  
• Ultra-low profile bumpstops
  
• Chrysler Cordoba shocks (modified control arm slightly to fit)

Sits reasonably low and rides surprisingly well (you NEED short front shocks for this to ride well):

You can always go lower by re-drilling the front spring perch, pulling a leaf, and dropped spindles.

 

[D21jrc9009]

on average.... how much did that cost? how hard was this job to do? Can you give me a slightly detailed way to do this?

 

[Skinny G]

Canadian prices:

3" lowering blocks: $67
Two sets bumpstops: $20
Two shocks: $50

"Hard" is a subjective term - it was super easy for me. It may be more difficult for you. On a scale of 1 to 10 it's probably a 3 or less. You can do it in an afternoon.

Detailed way to do this? Did you clicky the linky?

Lowering the Hideous Hardbody - Mr. Wellwood

^^^ clicky ^^^

 

[Logantw]

i heard you can get your leaf springs straightened out and it will lower it a lil bit thats just wat sum guy told me to do

 

[Skinny G]

 

[Skinny G]

By the way, I experienced a bit of universal joint vibration taking off in first gear with moderate throttle.

Some guys use angled lowering blocks, which I don't believe are the best solution. I raised the carrier bearing with 1" spacers and longer bolts and the vibration is gone.

 

[suspeck]

Hmm.I want to lower my hardbody too, but the fabrication and modifying parts would have me stumped.Your write up was very informative Skinny_G, and i think i can handle the back easily but the front seems hard.

 

[CMax03]

All the above is fine and dandy! But it's not the best way, it 's actually more expensive in the long run! If you wanna maintain your stock ride comfort then this is the way,...Buy some Belltech lower spindles, or lowered control arms, lowering blocks, or the lowered rear spring which is offered from belltech. Most folks will lower the front 2" with spindles, then throw on some 3" lowering block to get the leveled look...That's really for people who don't use their trucks as trucks! I would suggest lowered 2" splindles and lowered 2" block cause you still have the natural truck raked stance which means you can load so crap in the back without your headlights shining in the trees looking for freaking squirrels...IMO!!!

 

[Skinny G]

it 's actually more expensive in the long run!

Can you elaborate on this? I'm interested.

Futher:

1. Lowered control arms do not correct the suspension geometry like spindles do. They are no better than unwinding the control arms.

2. If you use your truck as a truck, don't lower it. Lowering it is stupid if you use it like a truck.

3. It is very easy to re-align your headlights after lowering 2"/3" - if you can turn a screw driver, you gots the mad tyte skilz yo.

 

[Pynikal]

Canadian prices:

3" lowering blocks: $67
Two sets bumpstops: $20
Two shocks: $50

"Hard" is a subjective term - it was super easy for me. It may be more difficult for you. On a scale of 1 to 10 it's probably a 3 or less. You can do it in an afternoon.

Detailed way to do this? Did you clicky the linky?

Lowering the Hideous Hardbody - Mr. Wellwood

^^^ clicky ^^^

:idhitit::idhitit::idhitit:good link!!!:idhitit::idhitit::idhitit:

 

[Jimbo13njax]

tons of info on this subject


InfamousNissan.com Are you IN?

 

[CMax03]

Can you elaborate on this? I'm interested.

Futher:

1. Lowered control arms do not correct the suspension geometry like spindles do. They are no better than unwinding the control arms.

2. If you use your truck as a truck, don't lower it. Lowering it is stupid if you use it like a truck.

3. It is very easy to re-align your headlights after lowering 2"/3" - if you can turn a screw driver, you gots the mad tyte skilz yo.

Sure! You're doing more damage to your suspension components and tires lowering them with the torsion bars. Again... IMO 2" dropped spindles, 2" lowering blocks, lowered shocks (not really necessary) is the best setup! And you can still throw stuff in the back and haul without any issues period!

 

[Skinny G]

You're doing more damage to your suspension components and tires

Tires I can see, but I only ended up with -1.5° of camber with a 3" lowering of the torsion bars. This is not excessive by any means, and a normal camber setting for many vehicles.

I'm not visualizing the damage to the suspension that you're talking about - can you be more specific?

With spindles and blocks, you do not need lowering shocks at all, whatsoever.

With 2" blocks, I can carry 50% less weight in the back before the suspension bottoms out. That doesn't sound like no issues period.

I apologize in advance for sounding like a dink here.

 

[CMax03]

I don't have the spec's on me right now, but too low can cause a bumpsteer problem that tends too wear out tierod ends faster than usual. A well maintained HB front suspension tends to last 300,000 before balljoints and linkages start showing excessive wear!

 

[Skinny G]

Bump steer doesn't cause tie rods to wear any more than turning the steering wheel causes the tie rods to wear.

As long as a tie rod end or ball joint is not expected to operate outside its operating range, it should last indefinitely (with proper lubrication).

Other issues such as a well worn ball joint or tie rod being expected to operate outside of its "wear" zone (yet within its range of operating, and due to being lowered) could accelerate wear. In which case the ball joint was likely on its way out anyway.

Where are you getting this information from?

The amount of lowering that result in the steering linkage hitting the radius rods (definitely bad) are beyond the 3" I've outlined here.

Alternately sized and offset wheels can put excessive load on ball joints and tie rods, and must be accounted for when attempting to condemn joint wear on lowering alone.

 

[CMax03]

I'm getting my info from Nissan manuals, 21 years of maintaning this beast and doing things, you think you've pioneered! Bumpsteer is apparently something youhave no clue about and you have that happening before you get to 3" of torsion adjustment. I found that anything beyond 2" was a crappy ass ride and now at that point of having not enough spring, unless you're running HD units from Sway-a-way. Anyhow thanks for letting my here your point of view on the subject...

 

[Skinny G]

Right.

Well there you go then.

I've designed and built suspension and steering systems from scratch. Including engineering the camber curve, roll centers, bump steer, trail, scrub, ackerman, spring rates, suspension frequency, bump and droop travel, shock valving and whatnot.

I endeavoured not to attack you or belittle you in my posts. I would have appreciated the same.

Happy Easter.

 

[suspeck]

I think i'll stick with G on this one:givebeer: