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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have a 99 Sentra GXE automatic with the GA16DE engine. The car sat for about a year or two and started up fine with a jumper pack. Brought it back home, and decided to give it a tune up.

I swapped out the drive belts, started the engine to confirm everything was fine. Car started fine, no belt squeaks. Turned off car and continued with the tune up.

Next thing I changed was Gas Cap, Air Filter. Then changed Distributor cap and Rotor. The rotor was seized to the shaft. I tried to pry it out, putting gentle pressure towards the cam sensor plug but decided not to go too hard since it was not moving. Ended up breaking the plastic, and was left with the metal collar. PB Blasted and let it sit for a day. Was able to remove it with tiny punch and pressure pliers. I marked distributor before wiggling the rotor collar to ensure nothing slides.

Put new rotor on with anti-seize on the shaft (wasn't as tight as previous rotor). Screwed in properly.

Put new spark plugs (new NGK BKR5ES and BKR5E tested) and Bosch spark plug wires (paired with Bosch dizzy cap and rotor).

Now, the engine sometimes does not start. I was able to get it started a few times but the idle was rough, and the engine died with throttle was applied. No visible CEL but when I checked for codes I did have code PO335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor). When I reset battery the code hasn't came back. I am unsure if the code is accurate or just glitched since the idle was very rough and engine shaking.

I had a family member rotor the dizzy to see if adjusting the timing would help, did not make no difference.

Things checked:
Rotor spins when engine is cranked
Fuel pump priming, spitting out fuel from fuel filter feed line. New fuel filter installed two days previous, ran with no issue. Fuel appears clean with yellowish tint. (Perhaps gunk in fuel rail?)
Put some fresh gas incase the fuel level sender is stuck. Half bottle of B12 Chemtool
Confirmed spark on Dizzy side
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned intake (best ability) although it was very black.
Battery is 3 years old but clean terminals, holds charge and has enough power to crank engine.
Vacuum lines appear to be intact - will have to review again.
Triple confirmed spark plug firing order (even swapped some around to see if any difference - no difference.
No visible arcing when viewing at night (checking for cracks).

Very strange since it was just running perfectly before the tune up. Next possible suspect could be IACV from my research but I am unsure how to take it off without damaging the screw heads since they are very tight. Also have to check the fuel return line on the rail to confirm fuel is getting in that area. Other than that, I am stumped.

Sorry for the long thread, just wanted to be thorough. Hoping someone may know a solution to this. I've done research but would appreciate any updated opinions.


2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
UPDATE: I charged up the battery since it was going low after many start attempts. I unplugged MAF before starting but no effect. Something I didn't actually try to see if it was fuel related was having starting fluid sprayed into the actual intake. I had a family member spray starting fluid into the intake and after a cranks and wide open throttle it fired up! The RPM was hesitant at the higher RPMs since I held the gas peddle about half way - about 5-10 seconds later I let go of the gas and she idled perfectly.

So I let it sit for about 30 minutes turned on with AC on to make idle higher to burn out old gas. Turned it off for about 10 minutes. Swapped out old spark plug wires individually to confirm the wiring was working, all went well. New spark plugs, wires, air filter, dizzy cap, and rotor. Will update in a week to see if status has changed. The car still needs be registered and get new tires before the real road test begins, but the engine prep work is done! :)
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