I have a 98' 200SX 1.6 and recently i removed my CAI and installed the stock airbox back on as well as all the sensors in place and when starting up it either idles very low beginning to die or it starts up fine and then dies off instantly. usually from a cold start up it starts up perfectly everytime but it seems when the car is warm it will stall or low irratic idle...i dunno whats wrong given the facts provided. any help...i searched and nothing seems to fall in place
98 1.6L- Start up idle and stalling issue
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you prolly need to raise your idle or advance/retard your timing because the stock filter is way more restrictive than the cai it tends to bog it down
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651 Posts
Whenever someone messes with a CAI (either installing or taking off) and they have these kind of problems I usually lean towards the MAF sensor. For some reason people tend to put it on backwards or not hook it up right. Plus, it's pretty sensitive and a good knock against something or dropping it may damage it. I would say check it to make sure it's in right and the electrical connections are snug. Then check the voltages from the wires. Hopefully, this helps.Blu200SX said:
Hey I also have this problem, it just came up recently, this winter, just a couple of days ago since its getting terribly cold on the east coast, least where I live
Anyway when I start it up it just dies, also a problem that plauged me before and now still I just always let the car warm up for at least 5 mins, well the problem was that if I just started up the car and drove off, the very first time I pressed the brakes the car would turn off unless I revved the engine, it was worse if I was also pressing the clutch
but you know the engine is swapped, and I think the second problem is because of something I read awhile ago talking about the brake lines or brake pressure or something, so probably isn't the same problem...
Anyway when I start it up it just dies, also a problem that plauged me before and now still I just always let the car warm up for at least 5 mins, well the problem was that if I just started up the car and drove off, the very first time I pressed the brakes the car would turn off unless I revved the engine, it was worse if I was also pressing the clutch
but you know the engine is swapped, and I think the second problem is because of something I read awhile ago talking about the brake lines or brake pressure or something, so probably isn't the same problem...
In some cases, depending on vehicle make and model and extentBlu200SX said:
on upgrades or modifications to an intake setup, may require
disconnecting the (-) battery cable for about 15 - 20 mins.,
allowing the computer to reconfigure sensor information once
the vehicle is restarted.
stalling + warm start trend
I'm having the same problem, too.
I do notice a pretty distinct trend in the stalling.
When the engine is cold it starts fine. However, the stalling occurs when the engine is fairly warm. You turn the keys and the car briefly starts then immediately dies. It starts right back up after, though.
Its fairly annoying and I know there is some issue at hand. For new parts recently the car has had a new alternator, battery, plugs, and fairly new cap, rotor and wires.
I just changed the air filter which was in fact fairly dirty, but I'm curious if anyone has had a similar problem.
I'm having the same problem, too.
I do notice a pretty distinct trend in the stalling.
When the engine is cold it starts fine. However, the stalling occurs when the engine is fairly warm. You turn the keys and the car briefly starts then immediately dies. It starts right back up after, though.
Its fairly annoying and I know there is some issue at hand. For new parts recently the car has had a new alternator, battery, plugs, and fairly new cap, rotor and wires.
I just changed the air filter which was in fact fairly dirty, but I'm curious if anyone has had a similar problem.
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5,304 Posts
All of you need to clean your IAC valve. Idol air control valve.
When you start your car does it rev up, then drop below idol quickly, then hesitates and sounds like its going to die. Sometimes going back to idol, and others stalling?
Then cleaning you IAC valve will cure this problem.
This is the valve:
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If your inner cylinder is not green, you need to clean it. The inner barrel turns and vents air into your throttle body. Hence the name Idol Air Coltrol valve.
When carbon and sutt build up on the barrels, it doesnt want to open up as easily. Has a tendency to get stuck.
Go ahead and get a can of carb cleaner, and some q-tips.
Remove the two screws that holds the IAC onto the throttle body. You are going to have to use a large headed screwdriver. If not you will strip the screws.
Remove the eclectrical plug. Set it to the side.
Get your carb cleaner.Spray it onto the barrels, and wipe the grime away with your q-tip.
There is a thin paper gasket, if you are carfull enough you will not have to replace it.
Slap the valve back in its home, screw it down, replace elictrical plug.
Get into your car, start it up, and presto, problem solved.
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When you start your car does it rev up, then drop below idol quickly, then hesitates and sounds like its going to die. Sometimes going back to idol, and others stalling?
Then cleaning you IAC valve will cure this problem.
This is the valve:
If your inner cylinder is not green, you need to clean it. The inner barrel turns and vents air into your throttle body. Hence the name Idol Air Coltrol valve.
When carbon and sutt build up on the barrels, it doesnt want to open up as easily. Has a tendency to get stuck.
Go ahead and get a can of carb cleaner, and some q-tips.
Remove the two screws that holds the IAC onto the throttle body. You are going to have to use a large headed screwdriver. If not you will strip the screws.
Remove the eclectrical plug. Set it to the side.
Get your carb cleaner.Spray it onto the barrels, and wipe the grime away with your q-tip.
There is a thin paper gasket, if you are carfull enough you will not have to replace it.
Slap the valve back in its home, screw it down, replace elictrical plug.
Get into your car, start it up, and presto, problem solved.
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I have an 86 sentra and i am i having a similar problem. It is a carburated car and runs really good when it is cool. When it ggets warmed up it spits and spudders then quits and will not start until the engine has cooled down completely. I purchased a coil thinking that would keep it running but i was wrong. Do anyone have any suggestions on what I should do?
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5,304 Posts
Im not sure about the carb., cars. But try posting you question on this part of the forum. There are many knowledgeable people over there, who can help you out.
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Im trying man. I swear I wish I lived closer to you, so I could just go over there and check it over.
Your my boy BLU!!!!!! .....hahahaha
Doesnt it feel great to fix your cars problem yourself?
Your my boy BLU!!!!!! .....hahahaha
Doesnt it feel great to fix your cars problem yourself?
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Is the Idle Air Coltrol valve the reason my car acts like a giant vibrator on 4 wheels at idle and stops when i hit the gas or sit in neutral (shes automatic 
:loser but back in drive it vibrates harrrd. seats even shake
:loser but back in drive it vibrates harrrd. seats even shake
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6,155 Posts
Do you have stock motor mounts and is your car throwing a CEL?Akshon_muZik said:Is the Idle Air Coltrol valve the reason my car acts like a giant vibrator on 4 wheels at idle and stops when i hit the gas or sit in neutral (shes automatic
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Maybe yes, maybe no. The only way to find out is to try it. It should be done regularly anyway.Akshon_muZik said:Is the Idle Air Coltrol valve the reason my car acts like a giant vibrator on 4 wheels at idle and stops when i hit the gas or sit in neutral (shes automatic
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stock motor mounts.wes said:
I have a 94 sentra with the 1.6 motor, and all of a sudden I am having idle problems. The motor has 130k on it, manual tranny. When I rev the engine up, especially over 3k rpm and then step on the clutch an let the revs fall, it goes way low to about 100rpm, and sometimes even stalls. If it doesn't stall, it will recover and start idling at about 500rpm. I've had the car about a month, I have no idea what parts have been replaced. My question is where should I start? Should I give it a tune up with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Or is there some sort of sensor I should clean?
Also, my buddy has a diagnostics reader but we couldn't find the port to plug it in. Does this year have one? If so where is it?
Thanks!
Joel
Also, my buddy has a diagnostics reader but we couldn't find the port to plug it in. Does this year have one? If so where is it?
Thanks!
Joel
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5,304 Posts
HELP!!!!
I have cleaned this valve, and I still have thew same problem. The damn Haynes manual is almost useless. The fast idal selinoid functions the way it should. Any thing else to try? Resistance readingings? Or should I just replace that vavle? The car is undrivable, and the person I'm helping with this project is on a tight budget, so I'm trying not to just through money at it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have cleaned this valve, and I still have thew same problem. The damn Haynes manual is almost useless. The fast idal selinoid functions the way it should. Any thing else to try? Resistance readingings? Or should I just replace that vavle? The car is undrivable, and the person I'm helping with this project is on a tight budget, so I'm trying not to just through money at it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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