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Well im interested in buying one and i found one. Question: What should I look for when buying it? Like is there anything i need to look for that is working normally aside from the usual stuff you look for when puchasing a used car. Let me know.. THANX
 

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go to consumerguide.com, and look at the 240, then scroll down till you see the recall lists, i advise you not to get a 95, or 96 because they are prone to alot of problems, unless you want to. i personally like the 95 model, but i also can fix alot of the probelms that are oriented with the car, so if you are not willing to fix the car, dont buy it!!!
 

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a few of the big things to look for are similar to what you'd look for w/any car. W/the 240's though, you should especially look out for oil leaks - i've heard of quite a few cases where ppl think they are buying a cherry 240 only to find that the previous owner just cleaned up the engine bay to hide the oil leakage. Also, look to see if any of the sheet metal/plastic parts on the car dont match as far as the color or fitment goes. That could indicate a previous accident. While this may not be a big deal, it may also indicate a twisted frame which will cause problems later on.

This is kind of a no-brainer, but one of the most telling ways to check the condition of any car is to test drive it. Dont really beat its ass when you drive it, but dont hold back either. If its auto, drop gears and see how it does. If its stick, make sure the clutch holds well.

If it seems good (and they're not charging an arm and a leg for it) go for it. I also have a 97, and i love it. Good luck!
 

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i have a 97 and i paid 5,700 for it (i bought it off ebay) very good condition runs great 101871 miles but i bought an automatic, you save about a thousand dollars on an auto, i will be swapping the engine/trans anyways so its mor money for that. had to drive from mississippi to gorgia to get it......... i love my car if you have any questions ask away id be happy to help :)
 

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b14sleeper said:
go to consumerguide.com, and look at the 240, then scroll down till you see the recall lists, i advise you not to get a 95, or 96 because they are prone to alot of problems, unless you want to. i personally like the 95 model, but i also can fix alot of the probelms that are oriented with the car, so if you are not willing to fix the car, dont buy it!!!
Problems? thats great that you know that they are prone to alot of problems but it would be even more helpful if you can tell us any of the problems specifically.

I presonally havent heard many problems with them. The only common problem I heard was the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and the low brake fluid sensor wont tell you if you have low brake fluid.

OK DONE! I just searched the 95 models and i found that most owners had problems with

-the factory cd player (same with 97 models)
-The first clutch since the car was new seemed to go for most owners at 80,000-130,000 miles
-water pump at over 100,0000 miles
-power steering noise and/or leak
-struts wear quickly at about 80,000-100,000 miles
-Some had experienced some uneven tire wear dur to flaws in camber but camber adjustments arent expensive.


auto.consumerguide.com said:
Air conditioner: Poor air-conditioner performance due to compressor-joint seals that tend to leak. (1995-96)

Brakes: Nissan issued a voluntary recall to replace a defective diode that will not turn on the low-brake-fluid-warning light. (1995)

Dashboard lights: The check-engine light may come on and set an erroneous trouble code for the crankshaft position sensor if certain wires in the computerized engine-control circuits are not kept separated from one another. (1995)

Engine temperature: The engine tends to overheat if any air trapped in the cooling system is not properly bled. (1995)
 

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braniac - I paid 4500 for mine. Like crash's, mine was an automatic and it had about 120K miles on it. (Also like crash, im saving up for a swap, so hopefully people wont yell at me for having an auto!) However, from what I've been told by a few people, the price I paid wasn't typical, so dont think that if its over like 5000 you're getting ripped off - it really depends on the condition of the car and, as in my case, whether or not the seller knows what they have. The guy i bought mine from didnt really know how popular they were or how they seem to be going up in both cost and desirability. Condition-wise, mine was very good. Only a few scratches and a small dent on the front left fender, but I already had planned to get wide front fenders (which i have now :) ), so that didnt bother me.

By the way, the guy i bought mine from wanted 6000 for his, which is relatively "standard", regardless of what they're listed as on kbb.com. If you have any haggling skills, you can easily talk people down, especially if they dotn know what they have. And like crash said, you can use the transmission as a haggling point as well. If you want stick but its auto, explain that sticks are more desirable and you should be able to knock the price down. Likewise, if the person is either really dumb (or simply not into the import scene) and the car is stick, you could explain how the stick cars usually sell for less money than autos, b/c automatic transmissions are usually an option.

Hope some of that helped!
 
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