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95 nissan hardbody | starts and stalls while idling within 10 seconds

2257 Views 3 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Bsdjohnny
Okay so I bought this 95 hardbody 2.4l 2wd with 322k miles on it, everything is stock and everything works (worked perfectly until 2weeks ago) I’ve owned it for almost 2 months, ran perfect the first month even put about 1200 miles on with a new oil change before this happened, then the idle one day started acting up idling at 1900rpm then would drop to 900rpm, changed the cap wires and rotor and plugs and nothing changed, changed the MAF and still nothing, cleaned the butterfly and any visible gunk after the butterfly and nothing, checked the fuel pump and it works even change the strainer because it looked a little dirty and nothing, changed the TBS and nothing, changed the idle air control valve twice annnnnddd nothing, the idle has only gotten worse after changing all of this, it now turns on no problem idle goes up to 2k when it cranks on then drops and surges at 300-500rpm for 3-5 sec and then stalls and this repeats every time I turn it on but when I do spray carb cleaner over the idle air control valve the idle increases and will stay on but idle at 1300-1700rpm as long as I’m spraying over the iacv, I’m no mechanic but I do have minor experience but this problem if causing me problems (money and transportation wise) also NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT Has turned on, if I stay on the gas pedal basically pumping it every 2 sec it will keep running and it will drive good with no idle issue past 3000rpm but feel like I’m on 3 cylinders when I’m accelerating heavy and feels like a misfire erratically every 4-6 seconds while cruising on the highway or street going normal speeds.

if anyone has any advise on what this problem would be I would strongly appreciate it!!!!!!

plus two different mechanics said it’s hard to tell with no check engine light and that it would take a lot of time to find so they didn’t want to try. 👎🏻
I also put 91 gas and sea foam and NOTHING!!
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You have a vacuum leak. That's what causes high idle.

Find a way to stop the fan when the engine is running. I get a pair of vice-grips and clip it to the fan shroud when the engine is NOT cranked, then crank the engine. The fan clutch will let it slip for a while.

Now get something extremely flammable like Starter Fluid, and squirt short bursts around the engine hoses. If there is a leak in one of the lines, the Starter Fluid will suck into the hole and the engine will idle will speed up. If nothing happens, wait for the Starter Fluid to evaporate before moving to another location.

Note: It might be a good idea to keep a fire extinguisher handy during this because Starter Fluid is so volatile. If it catches on fire, the engine will burn up. I'm a "know it all", so I never have used a fire extinguisher. One day, I'll be sorry.

Once you have found the vacuum leak, turn the engine off, remove the vice grips, and go replace that vacuum hose.
Okay so I replaced the gasket on the IACV and it doesn’t stall like it use to but it will if I don’t give it some gas for the first 30 seconds and stays on, it then idle up to 1300rpm for a 15-20 sec then drops to 500-600 rpm, when I’m driving, it has a misfire and then smooths out after 3-4K rpm and runs strong but it does sputter and jerk a little when coming to a stop and taking off, forgot to mention it also is making a rattle noise when accelerating then goes away after 3-4K rpm ( sounds like Little Rock’s getting shuffled around in a small wood jar )
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