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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello my name is Jen, I am new and have a question about my brakes on my 95 nissan 200sx, Just yesturday I changed the brakes and rotors on mine and now I still here noise like my brakes are rubbing and I have hardly any peddle. I have never had to bleed the brakes on my minivan when I did them but I don't know if I should to my nissan. What should I do? Any help please?
 

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robzgrl1 said:
Hello my name is Jen, I am new and have a question about my brakes on my 95 nissan 200sx, Just yesturday I changed the brakes and rotors on mine and now I still here noise like my brakes are rubbing and I have hardly any peddle. I have never had to bleed the brakes on my minivan when I did them but I don't know if I should to my nissan. What should I do? Any help please?
How does it feel when you get on the pedal, mushy? Is the rubbing consistant or intermitent? Did you resurface the rotors or replace them?

Most of the time new pads and rotors are pretty thick so they will be pretty tight at first but will wear down and feel normal again. Normally you don't HAVE to bleed the brakes provided you didn't remove the lines. But it can't hurt and if you have mushy pedal feel then that will certainly help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I put new pads and new rotors on. It is almost like I have no brake at all. It tightens up when I pump it up but then almost goes to the floor. I did bleed them It helped alittle but not much. What else could it be?
 

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you got all the correct parts right? you did buy anything that said "nx2000" or SE-R on it did you? the calipers on those 2 cars are bigger and wont clamp the rotor as well. just an idea.
 

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robzgrl1 said:
I put new pads and new rotors on. It is almost like I have no brake at all. It tightens up when I pump it up but then almost goes to the floor. I did bleed them It helped alittle but not much. What else could it be?
Were these different brands of pads/rotors than what you had before?

If so, some pads/rotors are thinner than others (starting thickness). For example, I recently replaced a set of Hawk HPS's (driven on for about a year and a half) with a set of Axxis Ultimates. The worn Hawks were actually slightly thicker than the brand new Ultimates.

In order to compensate for this, you have to adjust the brake booster preload. Check your Haynes manual or FSM for specifics, but it involves loosening a lock nut and turning ting a rod behind the brake pedal.

Of course, you should do this only after you've made sure that there are no leaks, that the brakes have no air in them, and that the pads/rotors are ok in terms of material/minimum thickness.
 

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1.6pete said:
you got all the correct parts right? you did buy anything that said "nx2000" or SE-R on it did you? the calipers on those 2 cars are bigger and wont clamp the rotor as well. just an idea.
Are you sure there is no fluid leaks anywhere and that you have all of the air out of the system? Otherwise are you sure you have the correct pads and rotors, did they fit tightly when they were installed?
 

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wes said:
Are you sure there is no fluid leaks anywhere and that you have all of the air out of the system? Otherwise are you sure you have the correct pads and rotors, did they fit tightly when they were installed?

i agree with wes... it might sound like theres a leak somewhere
 
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