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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

My 3/89 Nissan 240SX is having a problem with the fuel injectors leaking fuel on to the engine block. I have changed the seals on them 3 or 4 times. They only seal for about a day and then it slowly starts leaking again. I can't even run my heat or air because the fumes coming in are too strong. If I get all new injectors will that fix the problem?
 

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ya thats prety much what ur going t have to do i
hade the same problem with mine my number 1 full injecter hade a crake in it
but just replace them and it chou fix the problem :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
drifterdan said:
ya thats prety much what ur going t have to do i
hade the same problem with mine my number 1 full injecter hade a crake in it
but just replace them and it chou fix the problem :thumbup:
Thanks! That will probably be what I do.
 

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ebay

I have the same problem, it makes my engine run lean. 2 mechanics (unofficially)said I had a rod knock (2 said it was not), but I think it is detonation making the sound. THis weekend I am installing 4 rebuilt injectors I found on ebay. I won the bid at $76 for all 4. Hopefully that will take care of my problem.

Brand new they are $120 or more each, local import shop sells them for $65, they can be found on the web for +-$55, but ebay had quite a few going for much cheaper than that.

From what I have read you have to be extremely carefull on how you insert the new injectors back into their seats. If you insert them at the wrong angle the o-rings will get miniscule cuts that end up creating big gas leaks...maybe you just need to buy new seals and be more carefull, I read that vaseline upon insertion made things go smoother (add your own sodomy-based joke here_______________________)

...My brother told me he could test drive my car to see if it had a rod knock. So he red-lined it all up and down a 35mph zone, came back and said it was'nt a rod knock. Kinda wished it was because he woulda bought me an sr20det or faced pulverization.
 

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When installing injectors, use a bit of motor oil on the o-rings and rotate them a bit to keep from nicking the o-rings. If you have to force them, that's a problem. The oil will soften and swell the o-ring slightly making a good seal.
We found that vasoline goes away if a drop of gas gets on it and doesn't work as well.

Gordon
WitchHunter Performance
Fuel injector cleaning & flow testing service
 

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Good call on the vasoline, just about to say the same thing. petroleum based product and all...ha ha... replace injectors carefully dude. looks like you'll have your problem solved! Let us know how things turn out!
 

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You have most likely fixed your injector leak by now, but I just wanna add another 2 cents...

Get the o-ring/ seal kit from NAPA they were $4.50 each. The ones that came with my rebuilt injectors did not have the insulator seal that goes on the engine block. ALso the o-rings seemed a bit small.

I used silicone lube, and cleaned the grime out of everything. I did have to put some muscle into it when putting the injectors into the fuel yube, but it held tight. I stuck the insulator on the injector before inserting all 4 simultaneously into the engine. Then I bolted it in evenly, and waited to pressure up the system, about 2 hours. Then I gassed it up, and no leaks at all.

My main problem was dropping bolts and washers onto the frikkin engine. It was 25 degrees and my fingers were not cooperating. Still missing one for the BPT valve.

About the BPT valve...the hoses to it were all fried (had gaping cracks) and were full of carbon. My plugs had black carbon also. My rodknock/rattle sound is still there...any possible relations between black carbon and the sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Actually I just got the injectors this week and I haven't had a chance to put them on. I got them salvage and that concerns me a little. One of the salvage injectors has a hair line crack in the stem that actually goes down into the hole. My dad (the mechanic) says that he thinks it should be no problem but I don't want to have the same problem all over again...Oh well. I'll keep you updated.
 

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I am having a MAJOR bogging issue with my 240. At idle, if I push the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way down, the car bogs. When it bogs, I hear a clicking sound coming from the head/plugs/injectors. It makes the same sound when the positive wire is connected to the battery terminal.

The injectors are not leaking on the outside.

Let me know what you guys think.

Andy
 

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aaroncoal said:
Actually I just got the injectors this week and I haven't had a chance to put them on. I got them salvage and that concerns me a little. One of the salvage injectors has a hair line crack in the stem that actually goes down into the hole. My dad (the mechanic) says that he thinks it should be no problem but I don't want to have the same problem all over again...Oh well. I'll keep you updated.

If you need injectors, 3 of mine turned out to be still usable. I have not sent them back for the $40 core charge yet...so if $40 plus shipping ($7-10?) beats whatever you were going to pay, let me know. I don't think I can break them up and sell one w/out losing the $40 though.
 

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Prelude Guy said:
I am having a MAJOR bogging issue with my 240. At idle, if I push the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way down, the car bogs. When it bogs, I hear a clicking sound coming from the head/plugs/injectors. It makes the same sound when the positive wire is connected to the battery terminal.

The injectors are not leaking on the outside.

Let me know what you guys think.

Andy
Could be a bad injector, they are supposed to make a faint clicking sound from the solenoid electric pulse. If you put a screwdriver handle in your ear and the (standard) tip on the injector you can hear it working. If no click then something is not working. Maybe an electrical problem, hopefully not a short causing an arc to make the sound.
 

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also may do you well to check your EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation). problem sounds like a lean condition, not overfueling...if the EGR valve is bad and sticking open it will definitely give you the problems you're having. also could have a bad vaccum leak somewhere AFTER the MAF. Best of luck.
 

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BrianNVdCustoms said:
also may do you well to check your EGR valve (exhaust gas recirculation). problem sounds like a lean condition, not overfueling...if the EGR valve is bad and sticking open it will definitely give you the problems you're having. also could have a bad vaccum leak somewhere AFTER the MAF. Best of luck.
Where exactly is the EGR valve? Is it easy to get to?
 

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EGR valve will come off the header, through the heatshield, to a plastic box on the driver's side strut tower, and then into the intake manifold. it simply sends spent exhaust gases back into the motor to "take up space." this improves fuel economy while cleaning up emissions as once exhaust is spent, it's essentially an inhert gas. if this valve sticks open it will allow way too much inhert gas to enter the manifold and bog the car down. the manifold will have a large vaccum diaphragm controlled valve on it somewhere, this is the entry point for the exhaust gas back into the manifold.
 
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