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Discussion Starter #1
I had recently had my plugs, wires, Distributor cap and rotor replaced. About 3 days ago, my poor truck (174,000 miles) that I've babied, is now stalling out at start to where I have to have gas pedal halfway to floor to get to start and fight with it to keep running. Once warm, it doesn't stall out or try to as often cold, but while driving she stalls out intermitenly. Sometimes stalling out to where it won't start and I have to push off road and fight with it. I checked in Haynes to make sure all 8 wires and cap is correct order and it is. A few people have told me its with ignition system but i don't know. One person has me leaning towards the idea that my Ignition Modulators (intake and exhaust) are shot out and need replaced at 100 bucks each = OUCH!!! I am trying to get more opinions on what it may be before i dump more money I dont have into something that wont fix anything. I used SeaFoam through intake vacuum to clean out carbon as well as playing with EGR diaphram as manual has mentioned. I need this thing for school and work cuz now atm im stuck like Chuck! :balls::balls:
A friend used a flat head screwdriver and checked the spark, it was gettin some but when engine was dyin, it wasnt sparking then when almost dead it was sparking again. weird..... A friend at auto zone hooked up a new coil to each and same spark....... clueless PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!:balls::balls:
 

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check your transistor for the coils and check that exhaust coil, It wears out most of the time due to it being switched on and off during different throttle conditions!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I had those checked. They seemed ok with spark. I read that sometimes after having a complete tune up, that you needed to remove the positive cable off the battery and leave it for a bit. I did so and now it starts up just fine as before this havoc but, now it runs like utter dog balls. Like misfiring mayhem, all shakey and vibrating for a bit then died and won't start. I'm clueless and trapped in Hell it seems. No work and no school for me till resolved........ :cries:
 

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Dunno, maybe incorrect spark plug gap??? check your distributor rotor. may be something up with it.:eek:
 

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Please recheck you wires to make sure they're going to the correct plug then, if your coils and transistors are fine then maybe checked that the rotor is secured to the distributor shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just don't know anymore ...... I attempted to drive it to a Meineke a couple miles up the road and it took me about a hour. They checked the plugs and gap, wires, cap, rotor positioning, and the ignition spark on both coils and it seemed good they said. They then checked the timing with a light gun, not sure what its called :doh!:, and readjusted back to spec. (off 1 degree they said) It ran fine for a bit then when he drove it out the garage and went in the parking lot. As I let it run, parked, it started doing its little cycle and died. A tech there, came back out when I told him and it died again with him out there. After a few other checks, he had said that it may be the fuel pump. I have no clue what this can possibly be. So as it seems, its game over with this thing.
 

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I'd look for vacuum leaks first. Have you checked the ECU error codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had all the plugs and wires looked at and made sure they were tight. I tried a new ignition control module on the primary and same old insanity. fuel filter is about a week old if that. When a friend of mine was running some tests today, he pulled the coil wire (Primary intake) off the dis cap, put a screwdriver in it and had me try to start it. It had good healthy spark he said. He then plugged that wire back on the dis cap and pulled the intake #1 wire off the block and put the screwdriver in it while grounding it less than a half inch away. NO SPARK (intermitenly) I tried to start it again, very weak spark, and on the 3rd try, the motor started and it had a variation of weak and strong spark. He then went back to the coil wire that plugs in the dis cap. We tried numerous times to start it, it actually ran once till it died, and it had a constant healthy spark. That's when he mentioned to me that he's quite sure that its my pick up on the distributor itself.
About the ECU code thing, I pulled the seat all the way up and all thats visible is the back side of it.......:clueless: sorry guys and thanks a ton! Im so retarded when it comes to vehicles..... Im a computer/network techie :p
 

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if your dizzy works at any point ..it is fine.

it is loosing its siggy from the ecm..

check codes by turn ing the key to run position but not started..

when the ecm blinks 3 times flip the switch on read the lights and record.

tell us what the numbers are.,.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
zomg! I just wish i knew half the stuff ya'll were talkin about. :cries: So, the pickup on the distributor wouldn't do this Ive gathered. I just wish I knew how to do this ecu code thing. I studied the post on how to but im cluless. Sorry for being a retard guys..... :balls:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, ever since crap started happening, there is a click that goes on crazily. It happens randomly, as the motor is either running or only when they key is in the on position. I noticed that when the clicking isnt happening is when the motor will run. While running, I notice that when the clicking starts, I start having the insanity begin. After having the fuel pump tested and the spark checked as well, a mobile repair dude I called off Craigslist, says that its either the TPS (throttle position sensor) or some air control thingy sensor. Now, what I dont know is, will any of those cause this truck to do this along with this clicking noise????
He was saying that some sensor was tricking the computer to quit having spark sent to the engine which is whats shutting me down.
Im at all ends now, with severe migraines and losing hair.......... :ripshairbyhandfulls:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yes i do but the damn thing doesnt barely speak of my z24 motor. I cant figure out how to get the damn ECU to work, what screw to turn or anything. The dam blasted Haynes manual is more focused on carburated motors not mine with the TBI. ....
 

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OK.... If you have the Haynes Manual #771 for 1980-1988 D21/WD21's then you need to turn to Chapter 6, section 15, pg.226 and the instructions are very clear....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
FINALLY! got the codes lmao i feel like a pure dumbass :p got 2 red flashes and 1 green then it gave a second one, 1 red and 1 green. did it in mode 3 any info could help on this issue thanks a ton GUYS and GALS!!!!!!
 

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ok i am having the same problem on my 87 just mine wont start at all. pull your seat out were you can see your ecu or ecm wich ever you call it there is a smallhole in the side opposite of the lil led lights switch it over to the on position then turn the key on then wait the lights with start flashing red first then the green if the red flashes once then the green flashes three times that would be the trouble code 13 get it mine is flash red twice then green once thats the troubl code 21 which is the ignition signal the haynes book will tell you to take it to the dealer if thats it i have no clue how to fix it i hope that not what is wrong with yours but if you figure out what your problem is then please let me know what it is ......oh and the haynes book is useless when it comes to any thing on the z24 no vacuum diagrams or any thing
 

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Discussion Starter #20
mine coded 11 and 21. to what the Haynes manual and the thread, 21 is ignition signal and 11 is crank angle sensor. I looked and the crank angle sensor is built on the distributor. I am thinking that since the distributor is screwed, thats why I het ignition signal error too.
 
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