[Torque]

Hello,
New member here and stuck on a CV install (driver's side) for an '85 HB 4X4 with auto hubs. Hoping there's a Nissan tech guru or shade-tree mechanic here that's done this install and can lend advice.
Problem: Can't get the snap-ring to seat in the channel on the driveaxle spline. Honestly I've done dozens of CV replacements but have never had an issue like this. This design is unfamiliar to me.
Pics...

This is the little beast, it's a friend's truck.

Driver's side hub. This is where the problem lies. The slot on the spline is exposed in this pic... that's about as far as I can pull it through. It's not far enough to engage the snap ring and lock everything into place unfortunately. When I removed the old CV the spline seemed to be pressed into the hub but there's no way I know of to press the new one back in. I'm about 1MM shy! Grrrrr

This is what it looks like with the hardware in place. Just need another millimeter and that ring should snap in.

We tried using a socket that contacts the snap ring... tapping and hammering with the BFH was fruitless. Every time we struck the socket, the driveaxle recoiled, even with a big dude gripping the axle shaft.

So..... what's the trick? Special tool that will draw the driveaxle spline further into the hub? I really need to expose that ring slot to seat the snap ring. There's no way to get a hydraulic press to seat it. I'm completely stuck on this one. I thought she'd go back together like butta. Any and all advice welcome.
Thanks!!

 

[Torque]

Additional info I forgot to mention....
The hub is free floating when we're attempting to seat the spline into it. Both upper and lower ball joints (new) are currently disconnected in an effort to 'push' the hub onto the spline (seat it). As mentioned above however - when pushing on the hub... the driveaxle recoils/compresses. This makes it virtually impossible to firmly press the outer spline firmly into the hub. I'm beginning to think I may have to fabricate a special tool if one doesn't exist for this.

Another thought:
After using the search feature on this site I ran across a topic that was discussing CV replacement for a '90s Pathfinder. Not the same vehicle but he was having a similar problem. He was asking if the thick copper ring (part name "spacer") was installed upside down. The "spacer" does have a bevel on the hole of the ring on one side and it's flat on the other. The guy said if he flipped it over he could get his ring to seat. Could that be our problem? Hmmmmmmm

 

[rogoman]

Additional info I forgot to mention....
The hub is free floating when we're attempting to seat the spline into it. Both upper and lower ball joints (new) are currently disconnected in an effort to 'push' the hub onto the spline (seat it). As mentioned above however - when pushing on the hub... the driveaxle recoils/compresses. This makes it virtually impossible to firmly press the outer spline firmly into the hub. I'm beginning to think I may have to fabricate a special tool if one doesn't exist for this.

Another thought:
After using the search feature on this site I ran across a topic that was discussing CV replacement for a '90s Pathfinder. Not the same vehicle but he was having a similar problem. He was asking if the thick copper ring (part name "spacer") was installed upside down. The "spacer" does have a bevel on the hole of the ring on one side and it's flat on the other. The guy said if he flipped it over he could get his ring to seat. Could that be our problem? Hmmmmmmm

View attachment 9297

I helped another member with the same problem as yours. Here's a picture of the spacer orientation; you can see which way the beveled side goes:

 

[Torque]

rogoman,
Thank you for the reply. That may very well be the problem. I'll disassemble again to make sure it's facing the right direction. It could have gotten flipped during disassembly and reassembly when we were cleaning up and regreasing the parts.
I'll follow-up either way. Thank you!

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

I've occasionally had to polish that spacer down on some 600 spray glued to a pane of glass. if that's needed go slow, until just a solid tap seats it.

 

[Torque]

Success!
Turns out we did have the spacer installed correctly, so it wasn't that. Took Oldcivicjoe's advice and sanded down the spacer just enough to do the trick.
Snap ring is seated perfectly now.

Also replaced all shocks, upper and lower ball joints, tie rods, sway bar links, and brake pads (the passenger side CV went back together much easier since we reused the driveaxle on that side).

Thank you guys again for the great advice! Next little project for his truck will be to replace the torsion bar bushings where they connect to the LCAs. I'll create another thread for that if we stumble but it doesn't look too difficult.
Thanks!!!!!!!