Nissan Forum banner

21 - 40 of 42 Posts

·
Wise Cracker
Joined
·
5,730 Posts
DanTheMan said:
Well, because jwt won't touch obdII ecu's and It has to be tunable on the fly not by mail order. (please stop trying to sell me on a jwt ecu) I am not rewiring an ecu for the prior model year and maybe failing emissions, PERIOD!
If all you want is a weekend racecar great! Do whatever you want to your computer. I want a legal, drivable car that I can register and pass emissions with. (OBDI will not pass an OBDII scan diagnostic, duh) Anyway, a progressive controller and an ignition plus the nos kit together are probabally still cheaper than a new ecu!

I was thinking ignition because you have to have aftermarket ignition to setup an RPM window switch and nos cut before fuel cut. (without jwt ecu management). Plus the ignition might be good for a few ponies off the juice.
Where is the JWT rpm window set for? How low an rpm can I squeeze at?
And can you break that down by gear?

More stoich at WOT means when the ecu goes into wot mode the venom400 keeps the fuel trim closer to stoich by lying to the ecu. The stock fuel map is very rich at WOT and just wastes gas and lacks power. The more perfect combustion adds power and saves gas. I know, you personally don't like piggyback ecu's, that's your preference. The a/f guage is hooked directly to the headers O2 sensor and no it's not a UEGO wideband, it's the standard a/f sensor the car sees it's just got a guage for me to see now, and at wot I see one light over stoich (just a drop rich for safety) with the stock program I see like 4-5 lights over stoich at WOT (waste of gas, lost power). I also feel more power. I mention it because the leaner mix may be a bad idea while squeezing (plus it will advance the timing) so I thought hey, maybe I should switch it off while running Nitrous, thats all.

The alternative to the zex wet I was thinking of is a direct port setup on the lower half of the intake plenum, but unless I can make it safe with the ignition window switch and nos cut I won't do either. Just can't afford to pull a block right now or fry rings etc....
Who here has been running nos without any problems on a ga16de?

Oh yeah, WES, if you're not addressing the question(s) please don't address the post. And yes I have a JWT product, the flywheel I mentioned in the prior post (please read the whole post).

Do you honestly think I was serious when I mentioned the ECU? I mean after your PM would I be that silly? :thumbup:

You wouldn't fail emissions, and I doubt the entire setup would be cheaper. But hey apparently you have it worked out. FWIW my car passes smog making the power it does through a factory cat, is still regtistered and daily drivable. I am not trying to sell you the ECU, just trying to dispel the myth your putting out there about a product that you have no personal experience with.... (or so it seems).

As far as posting I DID in fact post info. relavant to the thread. About the fuel pump and ingition. The ignition will yield little to no power over the stock setup when OFF the juice. But it will be useful for other things and fo rthat it may be worth while. Granted the JWT ecu can control the nitrous however you want, two separate maps for spray and NA, controlled activiation, but obviously you want to be able to tune like Paul Walker so it's not for you...I would upgrade the fuel pump for piece of mind, although I doubt it will make 200 WHP with a 75 shot so that is questionable.

And I asked about JWT products in the PM not in this thread, obviously I read this AFTER you sent me the PM that you never responded too anyway, you were supposed to provide me a link to the thread you mentioned...

Honestly man if your going to be such a shit talker pull your head out of your @SS AND CORRELATE BETWEEN DIFFERENT POSTS. Don't just lump crap all together so that you feel like you have something to post for everyone to see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
<- I did 100 shot for a a long @#$ time until it shattered a piston (from the 1st ring land through the skirt!!!)... it would have lasted longer but I was on the button like all day every day.. also I was running a stock ecu and the jet spread was all weird.. I was using a direct port from NOS using the soft plume foggers... for most 4 cyl cars (per wady now @ nitrous supply) 24/16's were a 100 shot.. my spread panned out to 24/18's or 20's (don't remember exactly) w/ 45psi @ idle. I personally don't recommend an ecu @ 100 shot because as long as it's tuned mechanically it throws a bunch of possible bugs out the window.. also for the amount you spend on an ecu you can just take it to a dyno and get your a/f ratio perfect rather than "safe w/learning and adjusting thrown in the mix" and paying 2-3 times more.. but like I said i firmly believe that the motor wouldn't made it a lot longer if i figured out the jet spread that much faster.. I also tried pulling fuel from different spots to see if it made a difference (originally I was pulling fuel right off my regulator then went to before the injectors- I was told politely by a couple of people @ nos at the time that side feed systems suck compared to the top feeds =( but we all knew that anyway and it did help a little) my a/f ratios were a lot more stable when initially engaged.. but long story short I ended up building the motor with arias pistons and shot peened rods upped the nitrous to 120 and blew it right up the 1st time to the track cause I had tranny/slick issues - automatic,open ex-manifold, on 22x9's-it wasn't the nitrous' or motor's fault just circumstance.. if you have a 5speed I highly recommend it - squeezed dry then direct nearly daily before it went and like it said it was due mostly because how long it took to tune (when first starting out with the normal jet spread I was surprised it made it through that first pass- I pulled a plug and nearly jumped out the window) ... but doubling the hp out of the GA @ the pull of a trigger is the shate!!!!!! the car boogies!!! :hal: I highly recommend it, I would just start out with fat jets and work backward in the tuning process and keep it simple & effective, the reason why I say this is because I thought things had to be a done a particular way to make it safe and effective and later found out I just wasted a gang of $$$ that didn't really help me in the long run... good luck with your project bro and let us know how it goes.. :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
DanTheMan said:
Well, because jwt won't touch obdII ecu's and It has to be tunable on the fly not by mail order. (please stop trying to sell me on a jwt ecu) I am not rewiring an ecu for the prior model year and maybe failing emissions, PERIOD!
If all you want is a weekend racecar great! Do whatever you want to your computer. I want a legal, drivable car that I can register and pass emissions with. (OBDI will not pass an OBDII scan diagnostic, duh) Anyway, a progressive controller and an ignition plus the nos kit together are probabally still cheaper than a new ecu!

I was thinking ignition because you have to have aftermarket ignition to setup an RPM window switch and nos cut before fuel cut. (without jwt ecu management). Plus the ignition might be good for a few ponies off the juice.
Where is the JWT rpm window set for? How low an rpm can I squeeze at?
And can you break that down by gear?

More stoich at WOT means when the ecu goes into wot mode the venom400 keeps the fuel trim closer to stoich by lying to the ecu. The stock fuel map is very rich at WOT and just wastes gas and lacks power. The more perfect combustion adds power and saves gas. I know, you personally don't like piggyback ecu's, that's your preference. The a/f guage is hooked directly to the headers O2 sensor and no it's not a UEGO wideband, it's the standard a/f sensor the car sees it's just got a guage for me to see now, and at wot I see one light over stoich (just a drop rich for safety) with the stock program I see like 4-5 lights over stoich at WOT (waste of gas, lost power). I also feel more power. I mention it because the leaner mix may be a bad idea while squeezing (plus it will advance the timing) so I thought hey, maybe I should switch it off while running Nitrous, thats all.

The alternative to the zex wet I was thinking of is a direct port setup on the lower half of the intake plenum, but unless I can make it safe with the ignition window switch and nos cut I won't do either. Just can't afford to pull a block right now or fry rings etc....
Who here has been running nos without any problems on a ga16de?

Oh yeah, WES, if you're not addressing the question(s) please don't address the post. And yes I have a JWT product, the flywheel I mentioned in the prior post (please read the whole post).
progressive controller + ecu = big waste of $$$!!!

I had a controller and got rid of it - it takes all the fun out of it and kills your time @ the track not to mention beats the spit out of the solenoids...

ecu- please don't fall into this trap.. yes it can help on and off the nitrous but not best efficiency and not in all cases.. please keep in mind that all our motor are running in different conditions (alt, ocatane rating, volumetric eff, etc... ) so no matter who it is, unless your using something like a MOTEC or AEM with true time lambda controls and a 5 wire 02 , your just getting a chipped box... for a lot less you can: rent a dyno and have the car tuned for both NA & on the button, any dyno shop'll carry at least a horriba.. that way you can tune your car down to the specifics and get a lot more out of it for a lot less money!!! The way I did mine was I carried a punch with me @ the time of tuning, the shop I worked for didn't have a dyno yet so we used a Dan White Horriba-starting @ stock settings I marked the distrib & cam camp, then tuned it for NA and marked the cap again, then on nitrous and marked the cap again... and just had to remember the fuel settings.. yes it not as "on the fly" but a lot more effective and lighter in the pocket.. it's not track specific depending when and were you tune but it's a lot more specific and effective when you comapare to a box that doesn't know: altitude, humidity, fuel specifics, etc..... it's common sense that a car tuned @ say sea level in CA ain't gonna run the same in CO (mile high) or FL (sea level but super humid) and you haven't factored in: the effieciency of the motor, what's done the motor and so on... a lot of chipped boxes will start by fattening up the fuel.. this will help on NA and also on the Nitrous (some will even go as far as creating a "pillow" to keep things safe)... but keep this in mind would a track athlete were super baggy jeans vs. a running singlet?? yes it keeps the legs warm but not @ it's best efficiency, does it fit? yes but not good as it could & wouldn't perform no were near the same..... and after owning a K&N, autometer, & rsr led a/f gauge and comparing it to a quality piece... they're all useless and far off the leds just look cool bouncing back and forth (which should also tell you something right away) @ idle and low cruising speeds.. :thumbdwn: I first tried tuning on my own using these and later found that they may have been a major player in the motor going south..
- surprisingly enough Nissan builds a stout GA motor for what it is (especially when compared to something like a single cam Honda motor... When pulling the motor apart the rings were in good shape kinda.... they were the only thing holding the piston together.. but other than that they really did look as if they weren't fried or anything.. the problem is the fact that the GA piston has a high silicone content. This silicone is used to make the motor keeps it quiet, but after high temp the silicone in the piston turns brittle & cracks (in my case shatters)... a lot of ford guys with the hyperutechtic (hope I spelled that right) pistons experience the same thing.

I had a hi-6 with my GA/direct port set up. I didn't feel a thing on the motor but I'm sure it made a difference on the nitrous...

plumbing under the manifold is cool but on that manifold and with trying to tune/figure the right jet spread - good luck, I hope you have a lot of patience and don't mind either taking off the manifold or getting under the car as often as I've hit the space button while typing this..
 

·
Wise Cracker
Joined
·
5,730 Posts
Good posts, lots of useful info. I notice one difference though. You appear to have the proper resources and requisite knowledge to make all of that work. The difference is that not everyone does, so an all in one solution is not the WORST way to go if you have limited knowledge and resources!

However from your standpoint it makes no sense to use something like that! My point is, there is a steep learning curve with Nitrous setups.

More than doubling the power output is something the GA can withstand, however I believe the stresses of nitrous will continually destory rings/lands at that power level. What broke on your built motor and what were you using on the auto tranny.? I KNOW that stock trany was giving up the ghost...


A couple of us have more than doubled the rated HP with turbo's....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
wes said:
However from your standpoint it makes no sense to use something like that! My point is, there is a steep learning curve with Nitrous setups.

More than doubling the power output is something the GA can withstand, however I believe the stresses of nitrous will continually destory rings/lands at that power level. What broke on your built motor and what were you using on the auto tranny.? I KNOW that stock trany was giving up the ghost...


A couple of us have more than doubled the rated HP with turbo's....[/QUOTE

Very true my friend...

As far as how it let go..... The main issue was the fact that the GA/auto combo had issues trying to come out of the hole.. here was my scenario:
GA/auto
hi-6
nos pump & regulator
direct port
bogarts/m&h's
open stock exhaust manifold ( I once ordered a header but it took so long I figured for a little more $$ I can just get pistons and squeeze more.. =) )

@ 1150rpm (in Drive and foot to the floor,and basically like squeezing @ idle) the GA wouldn't flow the CFM I needed for the amount of nitrous I was giving it so it was a 50/50 shot that I'd back fire it through the intake on the launch ... well it happened so much that I learned to stay on the nitrous to keep the motor spinning if that would happen off the line & the car would pull me down the track...I would just have to get the trigger timing right (in line with throttle switch cause anything under WOT-and BOOM through the intake).. well I did a big burn out and when launching the car the slicks grabbed so hard it fell on it's face so instead of waiting for it to build rpm (auto, GA, open exhaust, on 22x9's- would take like 5min-hahaha) I tagged the unit and it backfired so hard it blew the intake off and shut off the car, being used to this my natural reaction was to stay on the trigger for a sec so I did... well I got pushed off the side and forgot to pull the coil wire so I can turn the motor over and clear the cylinders.. needless to say I went to start it and KA-BOOM- better than any batman movie- cool thing is that the motor still ran so I took it to the pits got everything ready to go home and later that day left... on the way back I got gas and food, then when leaving the parking lot rods 3&4 broke outta prison taking chunks of the tranny with it and leaving holes almost twice the size of the oil filter in the front and back of the block.... I was super bummed cause poor motor had some good potential- I was originally gonna jet down the 1st to 80shot to lessen the chance of backfiring and then do another 80 in 2nd but oh well... it was all in good fun... =)

I do wish I had a manual trans so I could just launch @ better rpm the way your supposed to ... I really wanted to treat the GA the same way the puerto rican racers treated the 3TC... although I used that as a reason to swap to the jdm sr20 I still miss the little automatic that could (but really couldn't ;) )
 

·
Sentra Specialist
Joined
·
1,902 Posts
Well, how did it work? Did it go boom?


edit: sorry, I didn't see that there was a page 2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
con rods

1punchKO said:
wes said:
However from your standpoint it makes no sense to use something like that! My point is, there is a steep learning curve with Nitrous setups.

More than doubling the power output is something the GA can withstand, however I believe the stresses of nitrous will continually destory rings/lands at that power level. What broke on your built motor and what were you using on the auto tranny.? I KNOW that stock trany was giving up the ghost...


A couple of us have more than doubled the rated HP with turbo's....[/QUOTE

Very true my friend...

As far as how it let go..... The main issue was the fact that the GA/auto combo had issues trying to come out of the hole.. here was my scenario:
GA/auto
hi-6
nos pump & regulator
direct port
bogarts/m&h's
open stock exhaust manifold ( I once ordered a header but it took so long I figured for a little more $$ I can just get pistons and squeeze more.. =) )

@ 1150rpm (in Drive and foot to the floor,and basically like squeezing @ idle) the GA wouldn't flow the CFM I needed for the amount of nitrous I was giving it so it was a 50/50 shot that I'd back fire it through the intake on the launch ... well it happened so much that I learned to stay on the nitrous to keep the motor spinning if that would happen off the line & the car would pull me down the track...I would just have to get the trigger timing right (in line with throttle switch cause anything under WOT-and BOOM through the intake).. well I did a big burn out and when launching the car the slicks grabbed so hard it fell on it's face so instead of waiting for it to build rpm (auto, GA, open exhaust, on 22x9's- would take like 5min-hahaha) I tagged the unit and it backfired so hard it blew the intake off and shut off the car, being used to this my natural reaction was to stay on the trigger for a sec so I did... well I got pushed off the side and forgot to pull the coil wire so I can turn the motor over and clear the cylinders.. needless to say I went to start it and KA-BOOM- better than any batman movie- cool thing is that the motor still ran so I took it to the pits got everything ready to go home and later that day left... on the way back I got gas and food, then when leaving the parking lot rods 3&4 broke outta prison taking chunks of the tranny with it and leaving holes almost twice the size of the oil filter in the front and back of the block.... I was super bummed cause poor motor had some good potential- I was originally gonna jet down the 1st to 80shot to lessen the chance of backfiring and then do another 80 in 2nd but oh well... it was all in good fun... =)

I do wish I had a manual trans so I could just launch @ better rpm the way your supposed to ... I really wanted to treat the GA the same way the puerto rican racers treated the 3TC... although I used that as a reason to swap to the jdm sr20 I still miss the little automatic that could (but really couldn't ;) )
You might want to check out a set of GA16I con rods.I took apart a GA16DE and a GA16I and the I rods made the DE rods look like toothpicks they were way thicker! The DE rods are some of the thinnest rods I've ever seen in an automotive engine,and I've taken apart alot of them.I'm surprised you guys are making the power that you are without spitting rods out left and right!The DE motor I took apart was an early 90's.I don't know if all of the rods are the same or if I took apart a couple of odd ball motors but it mightbe worth looking into if your looking for high horsepower levels out of the GA motor.Here is something else to think about.An E-16 con rod looks just like an I rod,nice and thick,but it's shorter.Maybe this rod couldbe used to lower the comp. ratio with a turbo by having the piston a ways down the cylinder like the factory did with the E15ET motor.The E-16 rod is set up for a pressed pin but can easily be resized for the floating pin and drilling an oil hole .I know the E-series rod will work because right know I'm driving around an E-16 with GA16de pistons and rods,the thin ones out of the motor I took apart!It bumped my cranking comp. up to 210 psi with the stock cam and makes alot of Hondas look silly!
 

·
Nitrous Junkie
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Holy old thread ! BATMAN
 

·
Nitrous Junkie
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
blownb310 said:
That's what happens when one searches. :)
Its cool just felt like jokeing a little. :cheers:

Let me know if there is anything i can help you out in. :cool:
 

·
Nissan Wizard
Joined
·
193 Posts
Bryan200sx said:
Its cool just felt like jokeing a little. :cheers:

Let me know if there is anything i can help you out in. :cool:
Did you ever get your car on the dyno?
 

·
Nitrous Junkie
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter #36
E-serious B-12 said:
I had some good cylinderhead information I was goingto share but fuck it,it mightbe an old thread and you already know it all so I won't waste our time!
Talk about touchy....

Did the post about me saying i was joking just fly by you?
 

·
Nitrous Junkie
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
b13nissan said:
Did you ever get your car on the dyno?

No shortly there after i got another car and its been burning a hole in my pocket.

The 200sx is almost back to stock.

I really got into Auto-X and scca events so i bought an SVT focus. I sold everything from the nissan and its been put into new rims and tires as well as an LSD for the focus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,022 Posts
friend of mine has a SVT Focus....always gets smoked by this lil old Nissan :cool:
 

·
Nitrous Junkie
Joined
·
252 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
maybe

But thats a 240 way different when it comes to way the suspension of a b14.

It would have taken me a whole lot more money to get it to handel like the SVT in the stock form.

Also unless you have modified brakes after about 2 hard laps in a roadcourse your times will start to go down due to brake fade. Something that i have yet to experience with the SVT's stock brakes.

To each his own.

BTW what was the whole point of bashing the SVT? No one has even mentioned a 240?

No interesting topics in the 240 forum?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,022 Posts
Bryan200sx said:
maybe

But thats a 240 way different when it comes to way the suspension of a b14.

It would have taken me a whole lot more money to get it to handel like the SVT in the stock form.

Also unless you have modified brakes after about 2 hard laps in a roadcourse your times will start to go down due to brake fade. Something that i have yet to experience with the SVT's stock brakes.

To each his own.

BTW what was the whole point of bashing the SVT? No one has even mentioned a 240?

No interesting topics in the 240 forum?
yeah they are, just saying the SVT isnt nothing special down here, and the owner of it even admits that it sucks overall on every single thing...gets smoked so easy by the IBIZA FR and the Clio Sport....also my S13 has all basic bolt ons, but either way.....that 2.0 6speed just doesnt feel strong at all, not even on the corners (yes ive driven it.....) RWD all the way :cheers:
 
21 - 40 of 42 Posts
Top