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I didn't know where else to post this because there's no thread for the quest. I figured I would post in the Maxima forum since that seems to be the closest to the quest far as engine and transmission. I have a 2004 Quest that I just purchased. I got it at 220k so far i have put 3.5k on it and have HAD to replace the bank 2 cat, it only had a 1/4 of the honeycomb left in it, no idea at all where the rest of it went, rather in the engine or down the exhaust. I have also done a drain and fill on the tranny once which seems to have done nothing because there is no change in fluid color. I want to do a flush but have two questions, 1) should I do it? I have heard problems can begin to happen if it is done and 2) where is the tranny filter on this transmission if there is one? I'm really in a rush get that fluid out of there because it is brown on its way to black but I'm not sure wether to drain and fill or flush. If I flush I want to replace the filter also. It will be a backyard flush not a "power flush" like they say is done at service shops, so I'm just pulling the return line and letting it out as I fill it. Advice on this would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
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The trans filter is not serviceable on the 5-speed auto FWD transmission used in the Maxima and Quest; you have to remove and teardown the transmission to replace it. If you are just "flushing" by the way you proposed, you won't due any harm. Personally, I would use Valvoline Maxlife ATF, which is a synthetic ATF and is compatible with Nissan-matic Types "K," "J," "S" and "D." I've noticed on my Pathfinders, which use Type "J" or "S." the Nissan ATF is a very dark color when drained...almost brown-ish...and looks almost clear on the dipstick. The Valvoline Maxlife ATF after a couple of services makes the fluid look cherry red when drained and looks more like "regular" ATF on the dipstick. I get the Valvoline at Walmart in 1-gallon jugs for $17.50, which is far cheaper than the $9/quart genuine Nissan ATF. Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF is another good alternative.
BTW, the trans flush done at most auto repair shops is not a "power flush." They use a transmission fluid exchanger that tees into the trans cooler line and uses a tank with an internal bladder. You fill the machine with about a case of ATF, hook one line to the trans cooler fitting on the radiator and the other line goes to the hose that would connect to that fitting. The vehicle is started and the old fluid enters the tank and pushes against the bladder, which pushes new ATF into the return line which goes back to the transmission. It's just an easier way of doing what you are planning to do. Some places will add a "seal conditioner" with the fluid exchange process.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. I have been waiting to get this info. My research has taken me to the point to obtain the maxlife atf, problem is I found that info after I had already purchased 6 quarts of matic-k from the dealer to do a drain and fill. But now I know for next time. This van is 2 firsts for me, my first time with something bigger than a 4/5 door and my first time with an automatic. Now that i think of it it's also my first time owning something other then a SAAB, family growing had to go bigger, my heart wanted an Armada but my pockets said we getting a quest lol. Thanks again for the info about the flushing was worried cause I heard stories about flushing and they were not good, but i will get on that the next day off.
 

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HELLO, I HAVE A 2008 NISSAN QUEST AND I HAVE SEVERAL ISSUES AND NEED SOME ADVICE. IT ALL STARTED WITH THE BATTERY AND BRAKE LIGHTS COMING ON ONE DAY AND I FIGURED OUT THAT IT WAS THE ALTERNATOR SO I REPLACED IT. LIGHTS STAYED ON AND I TOOK IT TO Q'REILLYS AND A NISSAN DEALERSHIP AND NEITHER PLACE COULD OR WOULDN'T TELL ME WHY. FIGURED IT OUT MYSELF AND IT WAS JUST A FUSE. THE VAN RECENTLY WENT INTO LIMP MODE AND CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHY. I HAVE CHANGED THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND BOTH CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSORS. NO CHANGE. IT SHIFTS HARD INTO REVERSE AND INTO DRIVE. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME.
 

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WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE SUPPOSED TO BE COMING FROM THE ALTERNATOR OR AT THE BATTERY. SOMEONE TOLD ME THAT THE ECU OR ECM CONTROLS THE VOLTAGE. IS THAT CORRECT?
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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On most Nissan charging systems, the charging voltage is controlled by the voltage regulator that's built into the alternator. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual (FSM) should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly.

As a side note, in the future please enter all text in standard lower- case, not all upper-case as you've been doing.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
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Most of the later Nissans are controlling the alternator via the ECM. On some they use a load sensor built into the negative cable. I know on the Altimas they use a clutch inside the alternator that engages or disengages the pulley drive. That said, the charging system voltage should be in-spec with what rogoman states above (13.2-15.5v) and that should be with loads "ON" and loads "OFF," both at idle and at 3000 RPM.
 

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Hi, did you solve the problem? I have exactly the same issue. My Maxima shifts hard into D and sometimes into R, but it does this only when car is warmed up, on cold start it is normal for 15-20 minutes. When I shift it in D and rev it to go it takes a while to go with a hard jerk then it goes normal and shifts smoothly in all gears, even in manual mood. The rev plays up sometimes when driving as it may not sensing the right gear?
Before this issue it was giving code for cam and crank sensors with hard starting and losing power, staying in 5 gear. I changed the sensors all issues resolved except the one I mentioned in the start. The tranny looks good, the guage is very slightly below than the level.
 
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