I replaced the fuel pump and alternator and battery my car starts fine if setting for a while if I turn it off and it dont sit for a while it won't start unless I put a battery pack on it to start the battery has awfully charge it sometimes pulls a code 456
purcurt
The most common problem with no-start Nissans is a bad brake switch. If that's malfunctioning, you'll get normal lights on the dash when you press the button, but no cranking. A second press will simply cycle to "off". If the problem is the battery or connections, the car will try to crank but you'll get clicks and blinky lights instead of the starter spinning. If so, check all your ground and power connections, particularly the 12mm nuts that attach the battery lugs to the cables. Those are known to work loose and cause all sorts of intermittent issues.
A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts when the engine is shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good.
At this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:
* Testing fuel delivery:
You can also spray some engine starting fluid or carb cleaner into the intake to see if it starts up momentarily; if it does, then you know it's a fuel related problem.
Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail; now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should be around 51 psi which would be a static reading.
The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.
* Testing ignition:
Pull one or more coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.
* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak:
Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts when the engine is shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good.
At this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:
* Testing fuel delivery:
You can also spray some engine starting fluid or carb cleaner into the intake to see if it starts up momentarily; if it does, then you know it's a fuel related problem.
Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail; now turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should be around 51 psi which would be a static reading.
The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector.
* Testing ignition:
Pull one or more coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.
* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak:
Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
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