Nissan Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I want to start by saying this is my second frontier. I owned a 2013 with the 4.0 previously. In November I bought a 2020 with the 3.8l. The truck now has 2,200 miles. The other day I was towing our enclosed trailer and was merging onto the highway. The motor was at roughly 5000 rpm as I was getting on. After getting on I noticed the low oil pressure light was on. I pulled over and checked the oil. It was full. After restarting the truck the light went away. I know this a brand new engine so my chances are low but does anyone have experience with this? Is the oil pump the same as the one in the 4.0? I know the truck ran for at least 45 seconds until I could find a spot to pull over. I work on heavy machinery so I’m more than familiar with how engines work. I put 75,000 miles on the old truck with no issues. After this most recent incident I’m not all that happy with the 3.8l.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
We haven't seen an issue like that in our dealership, but at 2,200 miles it could be anything from a connector that isn't latched properly to a bad seal or o-ring inside the engine. If the light came on then there should be a residual DTC in the ECM, and the freeze frame can tell what the ECM was looking at. If the ECM saw a sudden drop to zero then chances are the EOP sensor circuit is faulty, if it read low but not bottom then it's most likely a real issue with pressure.
 

·
Sup Mod keeping the peace
Joined
·
7,412 Posts
The VQ40DE and the VQ38DD are basically very similar. On the VQ38DD direct fuel injection is now used. You might consider checking the oil pressure specs with a mechanical pressure gauge.
You can check the pressure very easily by installing a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge. You would remove the oil sensor which is located next to the oil filter and install the mechanical oil pressure gauge in it's place; you may need to get an 1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT adapter to hook up the gauge.

With the engine fully warmed up, the pressure should be as follows:
idle - at least 14 psi
2000 RPM - at least 43 psi

Another possibility is the oil pressure sending unit might be defective; consider replacing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
You might consider checking the oil pressure specs with a mechanical pressure gauge.
Yah, come to think of it, with 2,200 miles you might want to make sure the pressure is decent before you drive it much further. Otherwise have it towed to the dealer. It's under warranty, so there's zero point in risking engine damage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I’ll just take it down to the dealer and see if they can see a residual code. I’ve just got a cheap scanner. Would they be able to check the oil pressure or is that not something they typically do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
Paris,

Which Oil Filter are you useing? Which Oil and Oil Weight are you useing?

Regards,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
B, at 2,200 miles, unless he did his first change way early, he should still have the factory oil and filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
B, at 2,200 miles, unless he did his first change way early, he should still have the factory oil and filter.
Vstar,

That's True, but I did my oil change early when I got my '13, and I was just checking. An after market oil filter may not matter either on Acceleration. I had an aftermarket filter on a Motorcycle that gave low oil pressure on brakeing though. Saveing money on that Aftermarket oil filter cost me an early Top end Job.

Another thought was maybe the Oil was over full and may be foaming @ 5K rpm. Still sort of remote, but pulling a trailer the Engine was under some stress. Not saying too much stress though. The Oil and Oil wt. may not have much to do with it,, but wanted to know anyway. I think I read that they are putting in some really thin oil now, maybe 0w30 or 0w20 now. I don't know, but I consider 5w thin.

Regards,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
I think I read that they are putting in some really thin oil now, maybe 0w30 or 0w20 now. I don't know, but I consider 5w thin.
Yah, Nissan went to 0W on the whole product line, I think with the '17's. You'd want thin stuff for break-in anyway, not that it matters as much as it used to. With CAM / EDM etc, factory tolerances are much tighter than they were even 15 years ago, so there's a lot less metal to "wear off". That's why well-maintained engines last so much longer than they did in prehistory. When I was a kid, typical tolerances across the board were 0.005" and you were doing well to get 100K without a complete rebuild. Now we see vehicles hitting 250K, and more and some of the tolerances are in ten-thousandths. The march of technology is relentless.

Funny to think when my grandma was born, the Wright Brothers hadn't flown yet. The year I was born, so was the first nuclear submarine. I remember how impressed we all were when the first transistor radio came to our neighborhood, and the first color TV. Now we have smartphones and google, all in the space of three generations. Most people don't get the reason, but the fact is, 90% of the scientists and engineers who ever lived are still alive and working -- and that's been true pretty much since the time of Jesus. Check it out.
 

·
NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
Joined
·
10,069 Posts
With 2200 miles on it, I wouldn't touch it at all and would be making an appointment with the local Nissan service department. If they say they couldn't find anything wrong, make sure you get it documented with your concern on the copy of the repair order. I'm sure if there is a problem with the 3.8L, Nissan would be very interested in hearing about it so they can make sure it's not a sign of things to come for the rest of the 3.8's coming out of the factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
I'm sure if there is a problem with the 3.8L, Nissan would be very interested in hearing about it so they can make sure it's not a sign of things to come for the rest of the 3.8's coming out of the factory.
They certainly are. Our dealership already has standing orders from our FOM and TSM to report any odd or quality issues with 3.8L vehicles, and also the '21 Rogues. It'll be treated seriously for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
I’ll just take it down to the dealer and see if they can see a residual code. I’ve just got a cheap scanner. Would they be able to check the oil pressure or is that not something they typically do.
Paris,

Thinking on this Further, do what they said and take it to the Dealer to get checked out. If they don't find the problem this is what I think "MAY" have happened: Air got in and I'm thinking @ the Oil Sump Pickup to the Oil Pump and here's why: During the Breakin period the Engine is supposed to use some oil and the oil level may have been below full. contributeing Factor's if the Trailer tongue Wt caused the Back End of the Truck to be Low or Near the Bumper Stop's, If the Entrance Ramp was going uphill, If the Entrance Ramp or Roadway was Uneven causeing the Truck to Lope and hit the bump stop's, High RPM @ 5K in which the Oil Pump is Pumping @ Near Max, Sloshing Oil in the Oil Sump in which the Oil Pickup may have formed a little Vortex and allowed air to be sucked in. I'm thinking that the Thinner Oil "0w" is a contributeing factor. When the Air Entered, the pickup Tube was emptied and the Oil Filter was Emptied. 41 second's seem's like about the right amount of time for the Pump to RePrime and Refill the Oil Filter.

I do remember when the Oil Filter Emptied on my Motorcycle it took about that long to get Oil Pressure back up. I didn't know what the heck was going on back then, but I do remember how much it cost to repair and my issue was solved with the OE Oil Filter.

I may be totally wrong but this is my suspicion.

Regards,
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top