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2017 Rogue DIY CVT fluid change

8014 Views 42 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  VStar650CL
I searched but did not find a DIY for this. I am at 65km and would like to change this even the vehicle is under warranty and dealer/owners manual does not recommend for quite a few more kms.

Can anyone help?
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There are two good ways to swap the fluid DIY. However, first understand that there's one, giant no-no: Don't over-fill. .Put in a pint too little and the CVT will barely notice. Put in a pint too much and you'll have a dead tranny in 2000 km. 'Nuff said.

The first good method is to simply measure what you take out and replace that exact amount. To do that error-free, get a translucent pail or drain pan and put some tape exactly at the waterline when it's done draining. Then dump it, refill to the tape with fresh fluid and add that through the fill tube.

The second method is to use the leveling plug, which is how most dealers do it. The car has to be raised and level, you can't do it with just the front wheels jacked. Drain the fluid and re-fill with about 4-1/2 quarts, then warm the trans up fully. The quick way to do that is about 2 minutes of 1500 RPM with the car in drive and your foot on the brake. That generates waste heat in the torque converter without harming the belts and pulleys. Once it's warm, remove the leveling plug with a drain pan underneath. You should get a small stream of fluid coming out. When the stream "hiccups" and reduces to a trickle, reinstall the plug and you're done. If you don't get any stream, trickle fluid down the fill tube until you do, then you're done. Here's the leveling plug location on a '13 Altima, yours will be similar:

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Thank you for replying VStar650CL. Your detailed reply is much appreciated. Awesome. I think I lean towards the dealer method to guarantee the correct fill amount. I can get the vehicle up enough to access underneath and ensure its level using the same blocking all around. I'll first verify the drain and fill plug locations.

Am I correct the fill tube is the flexible hose with squarish black plug sitting below and between the brake fluid reservoir and the engine air filter? If so I'm going to have to get creative on how to get fluid into it without a funnel that fits and with a very long neck stem. Unless I can find one somewhere around here.

I'll be using Nissan fluid which seems to be priced like gold around here.

Thanks again.
No, your fill-tube is the snake in the upper right. On the gen2 Rogue it's easier to access if you remove the front intake section (a 10mm screw and 2 pushclips). The cap has an o-ring and can be a complete PITA to remove. I usually shim the pawl with a pocket screwdriver and then use a small channelok pliers to work it side-to-side until the o-ring lets go.

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NS3 used to have a real advantage in film strength over the aftermarket brands, but that's no longer true. I have numerous customers and acquaintances using Eneos and Amsoil, and both seem to be every bit as good as NS3 in both specification and performance, but a whole lot cheaper.
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No, your fill-tube is the snake in the upper right. On the gen2 Rogue it's easier to access if you remove the front intake section (a 10mm screw and 2 pushclips). The cap has an o-ring and can be a complete PITA to remove. I usually shim the pawl with a pocket screwdriver and then use a small channelok pliers to work it side-to-side until the o-ring lets go.

View attachment 7693

NS3 used to have a real advantage in film strength over the aftermarket brands, but that's no longer true. I have numerous customers and acquaintances using Eneos and Amsoil, and both seem to be every bit as good as NS3 in both specification and performance, but a whole lot cheaper.
For real? You do not have to use the NS3? I was wondering that myself on my car considering how bad the NS3 looked only after 34K miles on my Altima. Maybe Nissan needs to revamp their tranny fluid
For real? You do not have to use the NS3? I was wondering that myself on my car considering how bad the NS3 looked only after 34K miles on my Altima. Maybe Nissan needs to revamp their tranny fluid
Up until very recently, NS3 had a definite advantage over aftermarket fluids in film strength, which for CVT's is where the rubber meets the road. But technology marches, on, the best aftermarket fluids have caught up and perhaps surpassed it.

Your Altie was a special case, any CVT fluid will burn to a crisp from over-filling.
No, your fill-tube is the snake in the upper right. On the gen2 Rogue it's easier to access if you remove the front intake section (a 10mm screw and 2 pushclips). The cap has an o-ring and can be a complete PITA to remove. I usually shim the pawl with a pocket screwdriver and then use a small channelok pliers to work it side-to-side until the o-ring lets go.

View attachment 7693

NS3 used to have a real advantage in film strength over the aftermarket brands, but that's no longer true. I have numerous customers and acquaintances using Eneos and Amsoil, and both seem to be every bit as good as NS3 in both specification and performance, but a whole lot cheaper.
Well so far I've all been able to do is locate the Eneos fluid and order it. I am unable to remove the front of the air filter box and at least for now unable from above or below to catch a glimpse of that fill tube. I unlatched the 2 clips and I did remove the tube connecting from the front intake housing exposing the air filter and compartment. I also removed the 10mm bolt up top that holds the main filter box to the car body but that seems to only be necessary if trying to remove the whole assembly. But the front part of the air filter box seems to be clipped or hinged at the bottom and I can't remove it with just with the 2 clips loose. Do I need to remove the entire housing which involves some disconnecting wiring clips, tube clamp loosening and probably other things too?

I think I saw the levelling plug and definitely saw the drain plug. Can take a pic tomorrow.
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You shouldn't need to remove the airbox, just the front duct where intake air comes underneath the hood. The tube and cap should be visible right there, in between the starter motor and radiator shroud. The cap will look like a dipstick cap, except when you remove it there's no stick.
Here's the parts diagram, it's a different view from the pic above: The fill tube is tagged 31080. I hope nobody removed and capped your tube. It is possible to do that, and people sometimes do if the tube gets kinked and they don't want to bother replacing it.

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You shouldn't need to remove the airbox, just the front duct where intake air comes underneath the hood. The tube and cap should be visible right there, in between the starter motor and radiator shroud. The cap will look like a dipstick cap, except when you remove it there's no stick.
Thanks again. Here's a photo. It's right below the upper rad hose just behind the fan motor and close to the hood latch. Right in front of me but nowhere near where I was looking. Very accessible. Nothing to remove but that weird looking cap. I'm sure I'll break that getting it off. LOL
Automotive tire Flash photography Hood Automotive design Motor vehicle
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There you go. The nasty part about the cap is the o-ring, they always bond to the sides of the tube like glue. Get a small channelok pliers, the angled head makes it easy to wiggle it loose. I use a pair of very small pocket screwdrivers for the release pawl, one to push the pawl in and the other to jam it in the retracted position. Then you can use both hands for the pliers.
Hey VStar650CL

if I can indulge you again and hope you see this soon.... Need to finish this project and get car back to my wife
Hand Arm Helmet Gesture Style
! LOL
Everything ready to go but I have no idea where to insert screwdrivers - the square side of plug where the tube tab runs into it? which side of the tab do I pry on? inside ? outside? other? . I tried one screwdriver on each of the sides but that isn't working. Looked at it carefully but don't understand how it locks in there. I did use channel locks and moved the round cap up maybe 1/8" and it seems free inside tube, but the other square side seems to be restricting it from coming out further.

Can you help please?

Thanks
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Ahhh, got it from the bottom. Now I see. Not sure why it was so stubborn before. Ok, now for the drain etc.
Glad you got it. Sorry I couldn't reply sooner, busy day today.
Hey much appreciated all the help.

Car was perfectly level, trans cold. Strange, I only got 3.7 litres (3.9 quarts) drained. I poured 4.5l (4.75 qt) new fluid in, did the 1500 rpm 2min. warm up, and removed level plug. Approx 1.3l (1.4 qts) came out until it was just a small trickle. It had burped at maybe 1/3 of that amount. Total 5.0l out and 4.5l in. That doesn't seem right. Like its half litre short short.
Yah, we've found at the shop that letting them drain to almost nothing leaves them all a little short, usually a bit over half a pint according to Nissan's "special tool" dipstick. That's why we recommend watching for the "hiccup" and plugging it there.
In that case I think I'll have a little redo- remove plug, pour in remaining oil, do warm up procedure, crawl under car and remove level plug, drain it to burp plus just a bit more then reinstall levelling plug.
Done. Small burp, another 2 seconds draining then plugged.

Added a net of approx 1/3 a pint. Old fluid looked in excellent condition @ 68k kms (42.5k miles). No visible contamination but maybe the lubrication properties or heat tolerance deteriorates without that. Stuff smells, especially that new Eneos fluid.

Thanks again VStar650CL.
In that case I think I'll have a little redo- remove plug, pour in remaining oil, do warm up procedure, crawl under car and remove level plug, drain it to burp plus just a bit more then reinstall levelling plug.
The difference you measured was a little more than typical, so yes, I'd say a re-do is wise.
No visible contamination but maybe the lubrication properties or heat tolerance deteriorates without that. Stuff smells, especially that new Eneos fluid.
You're most welcome. If you had a 100-ton precision press to measure film-strength, you'd see the difference clearly. The fluid has giant, long-chain molecules in it that act as "cushions" between the belt and pulleys, but the long chains gradually get broken by shearing action between the moving parts under load. That gradually trashes the fluid's ability to cushion, but it won't alter the smell or appearance very much until the fluid is far-gone. Heat acts in a different way, a typical overheat results in darkened or brown fluid with a distinct varnishy smell. One happens slowly and the other is rapid, but either sort of breakdown will kill your trans. So the best advice is simply, "Keep it fresh."
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