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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It was all in Spanish... So I didn't really understand the program on the laptop.

Other than he hit search or scan and it did a 1 to 馃挴 I imagine on the system. The car was turned on but not running and the rear tailgate was closed.

Just seemed odd to me. And trying to explain to my wife who was translating to him I wanted to see the settings for that specific part of the car was not going to happen.

It's frustrating. That's why I spend so much time online trying to figure things out for myself because nobody is really qualified here. Maybe the guy with the tool box that contains a plunger isn't to bad at fixing the toilet. But as if a month ago... Even he proved me wrong when he cleared my clog and proceeded to reuse the wax ring in the floor. Yes, now I have a leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey @VStar650CL ... what do you mean "make it throw a DTC that sticks the door"?

1. Would that mean disconnect the rear spindle struts? and reconnect? Would that cause them to stop working? Im not sure exactly what I would do to make them scan the system properly and show me the components I am looking for in the system?

Or is there a list of all the Nissan sensors and components listed somewhere I can see to point out exactly what I want them to bring up on the scanner?

I did notice that their scanner plugged into the same port mine did. That seems odd to me that I can't download a program to read all the codes instead of only a partial set for consumer vs professional level readers? Is this OBD scanner related or software related?

2. The one thing he said, which actually made sense to me, was he said the sensor was good because I was able to program the height of the door and make it stop at the set height. I think that makes sense? My question would be what actually holds the door at any given height? Is it the actual spindle strut or a piece inside of it that is failing to lock?

3. One other question about the air conditioning in the X-Trail. It's started to fail from time to time an warm up. Not all the time, but intermittently which is why I'm shy to pay a lot for them to look at it. My ODB scanner will only show me that the A/C is either on or off showing a 0 or 1 reading which works fine. I asked them to check it out with the scanner since I would think there should be some pressure, fans speeds, levels of gas, etc to see with the professional scanner?!?! They told me it would be an extra $100 to check the A/C because they need to empty the gas in the system to check it? This didn't make sense to me again so I told them not to do it. Could be right but wanted to look into it first before I call BS on the whole thing. Comments?

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Would that mean disconnect the rear spindle struts? and reconnect? Would that cause them to stop working?
Any system component that you disconnect and then operate the door will cause the ABD to throw a code and stop operating. Yes, that can be a spindle as well as the latch.

I did notice that their scanner plugged into the same port mine did. That seems odd to me that I can't download a program to read all the codes instead of only a partial set for consumer vs professional level readers? Is this OBD scanner related or software related?
Like I said, the ABD is a Nissan-specific system with manufacturer-defined codes. It doesn't need to be OBD-compliant, so a regular OBD scanner won't detect it.

My question would be what actually holds the door at any given height? Is it the actual spindle strut or a piece inside of it that is failing to lock?
I said at the start I thought your spindles were mis-calibrated. If that's the case, there won't be any codes, the door just thinks the upper limit is lower than the actual mechanical stop. He could have done an ABD reset there in the driveway while the C3+ was connected, and I have no clue why he didn't. It's a 15-second operation.

One other question about the air conditioning in the X-Trail. It's started to fail from time to time an warm up. Not all the time, but intermittently which is why I'm shy to pay a lot for them to look at it. My ODB scanner will only show me that the A/C is either on or off showing a 0 or 1 reading which works fine.
If it's intermittent then it may not be pressure, but the system pressure can be streamed by any good OBD reader (the ECM tracks it and the CAN message is OBD-standard). It's also possible that you have a sticky swash-plate inside the compressor. Rogues use variable-displacement AC compressors, the swash plate is the part that physically changes the piston stroke under control of an electronic solenoid driven by the IPDM. These can stick in the "minimum" position and cause low cooling performance until they un-stick. You can test that easily next time it misbehaves. Turn the blower to minimum and see if the outlet temperature gets cold, then turn the blower to maximum and see if your cooling goes away. If so, it's a stuck swash. If it's warm even with the blower on minimum, then it's most likely a pressure problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Hey @VStar650CL,

Any chance you're coming down to Cancun anytime soon?!?! haha I could really use a mechanic that knows what's he's doing! Every time I get service for something the fix 1 and break 2. Seriously... last time was my ABS sensor that mysteriously needed replacement after changing break pads.

So... back to ailments of my 2016 X-Trail... which I love BTW... its just now starting to cause problems as vehicles are designed to do with age.

Lets start with the AC as I think I figured something out today. Other than than the car gets hot as balls in the Mexican sun when it's not working properly. I've been playing around the the modes/temp/recycled air settings as I noticed that the passenger vents are not blowing the same temp as the driver side vents. Driver is much cooler. Turned the passenger side "dual temp zone" up and down. Its gets nice and warm but doesn't seem to get the same cold air as the driver when set the same? The AC is ice cold on the drivers side at an idle as well. Doesn't change when driving. Passenger side just never gets there. And sometimes its blowing regular air I think. Thoughts?


As for the rear liftgate struts. I took a couple more videos of them in action.

Here you can see the height set to the top... and then immediately falls to the half way position once it reaches the set height. The only height that seems to work is when set at about half way.
Nissan X Trail Power Spindle Liftgate Struts Failing

Here i took a video and held the phone up against the right rear strut and noticed that it makes a knocking sound when moved manually up and down.
Nissan X Trail Power Spindle Liftgate Struts Failing 2


I'll try and explain this one to them... well see!
". He could have done an ABD reset there in the driveway while the C3+ was connected, and I have no clue why he didn't. It's a 15-second operation."


You said:
"Any system component that you disconnect and then operate the door will cause the ABD to throw a code and stop operating. Yes, that can be a spindle as well as the latch. "
What's the easiest component I can disconnect and then use the rear door to throw a code? The spindle cables are fished thru into the body of the car. Is there something else, quick and simple, I can unplug to make this happen?


ps: Seriously ... if you find your way down here to the beaches of the Riviera Maya... send me a message. I owe you a few cold ones!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Oh yeah... and I found some Chinese knock offs... kinda makes me tingle inside with fear. But so does the $700usd price tag from Nissan for the struts! I don't think I can do it... but found this info out there on the world wide web!

Option 1 - $328usd
Remote Control Intelligent Car Trunk Power Tailgate Lift Foot Sensor Kick Sensing For Nissan X-trail 2015+ - Buy Remote Control Intelligent Car Trunk Power Tailgate Lift,Intelligent Car Trunk For Nissan,Kick Sensing Power Tailgate Lift For Nissan X-trail Product on Alibaba.com

Option 2 - $399usd
2016 Nissan X trail Power Tailgate | Intelligentized Auto Parts | Hansshow
 

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No chance of me being in Mexico anytime soon, but the way things are going here in the 'States, I'll admit that Belize isn't looking impossible. I understand there's a dealership in Belize City...

Here i took a video and held the phone up against the right rear strut and noticed that it makes a knocking sound when moved manually up and down.
That doesn't sound right. They usually make a smooth whine when moved by hand.

What's the easiest component I can disconnect and then use the rear door to throw a code? The spindle cables are fished thru into the body of the car. Is there something else, quick and simple, I can unplug to make this happen?
The latch itself is easiest, the interior trim just pries loose after removing the embedded pull handle (also pries loose). The only caution is be careful of the wires on the "close" switch, have an assistant handy to keep the panel from falling while you disconnect it. The spindle connectors are underneath the headliner, much more difficult to access.

Oh yeah... and I found some Chinese knock offs... kinda makes me tingle inside with fear. But so does the $700usd price tag from Nissan for the struts! I don't think I can do it... but found this info out there on the world wide web!
The OE Nissan spindles are made in China. Chances are the Alibaba ones are "gray market", the original article without branding.
 

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Oh, yeah, your A/C. Consult3+ also has a calibration utility for the servos, in Work Support under the HVAC tab. That may or may not be your issue, it could be a bad passenger mix servo. The servos are just plain-jane stepper motors and very inexpensive by Nissan standards, but getting at that one for replacement isn't so easy, it's halfway up the side of the HVAC box and requires at least removing the glove box.
 

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Same here, 2017 Rogue and my power liftgate is doing the exact same thing. No matter how high I set it, it comes down unless I push against it. It could hold if I push against it long enough. Doubt there's anything is wrong with the struts themselves.

Did you end up fixing it by resetting the Controller or recalibrating? The vehicle is under 4 years old and I've only owned it for 2 months! What gives?!
 

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Same here
2016 Nissan Xtrail
Portugal

any news?
Since this whole exchange, I became aware that there's a simple, no-tools reset for the ABD's on all gen2 Rogues. Open the hatch all the way manually, then press and hold the "close" button until the controller beeps. Then close the hatch manually. The controller should now be reset and the hatch should resume working normally. If not, then there's an actual hardware issue that a reset won't fix.
 

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Since this whole exchange, I became aware that there's a simple, no-tools reset for the ABD's on all gen2 Rogues. Open the hatch all the way manually, then press and hold the "close" button until the controller beeps. Then close the hatch manually. The controller should now be reset and the hatch should resume working normally. If not, then there's an actual hardware issue that a reset won't fix.
Tank you so much for the help
it doesn't work
i think that i have a hardware problem...
 

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So, we open the trunk of our vehicle pretty often for job reasons.. I went ahead and removed the sagging oem power struts and replaced them with non-powered struts (for the practicality). The wires are cut and electrical taped.

Now, the external "switch A" button used to open the liftgate no longer works. It would only temporarily work fine after disconnecting the battery for some time (acts like a reset to the BCM?), but then it stops working after 4-5 opens or half a day.

Probably getting some codes in the ABD that's causing this? Do I have to go to get it the BCM/ABD (which is it!) reprogrammed?
 

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Yes, there are ABD codes that will completely disable the system and make the release quit working if they occur repeatedly. Because the release uses a cinch motor, I'm not sure how you'd get around that for a manual-strut conversion. You could re-wire the cinch motor to use a DPDT switch to allow releasing it, but you'd also need to cinch it manually so it would be very clumsy. Let me look into the manual latching type tomorrow, if it's self-contained and not run by the BCM then you may be able to use that. If the BCM runs it then you have a can of worms, because you'll need to use something like a spring-latching electric release off a different model and make it fit by modifying the hatch.
 

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Thanks for your response VStar650CL.

I really hope I don't have to re-wire anything. That's way beyond my comprehension.

What's baffling to me is that it's totally possible for a power to manual conversion to work. After resetting the battery, it works as intended. Pressing switch A while car is unlocked triggers the actuator, and stays locked when the car is locked and keyfob away. Key fob proximity sensing works too. Then it decides not to function after the comp thinks it's having issues with power function (despite the power door button turned off).

I wonder if I can find a mechanic with CONSULT tool and perform a reset + clear ABD codes, or to disable looking for a signal from the power function. Could that fix the issue?

I ought to note that I've changed my battery (brand new), and left the POWER DOOR button by the steering wheel in the OFF position since the conversion. Thought the power door button is supposed to tell the controller that I'd be operating the door manually.
 
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