[VStar650CL]

For a power hatch, looks like any version -4BA1A, -4BA3A or -4BA4A (the latest) will work. However, those aren't gas struts, they're spindle motors. If they lift the gate to the top and then drop down, then it doesn't sound like you have bad ones. Chances are you have a mis-calibrated ABD Controller or a bad sensor. Get the DTC's (codes) in your ABD read by the dealer, or someone with a high-end scanner like a SnapOn Solus that's capable of talking to it. Btw, if you simply replace the spindles, the hatch won't work at all until it's reset and calibrated. Same deal, requires a scanner.

 

[VStar650CL]

If it's a regular or mid-range OBD scanner it won't see the ABD. Only high-end stuff like a Solus or equivalent is going to detect the system. Your guess is as good as mine for the specific CAN addy.

 

[VStar650CL]

Is it possible that its the rear control module that is failing?
I have tried to "set" the height of the door and it won't hold it high enough to walk under.

Since you say the spindles/struts might be ok since they work and lift the gate. What is responsible for keeping the tailgate up and not allowing the spindles to unwind?

That's what the ABD is, the controller. Chances are it isn't faulty, most likely it's mis-calibrated or has a bad sensor. Only the codes from it will tell you.

 

[VStar650CL]

The recall was on the gas struts for manual hatches. They were actually dangerous to remove because the piston could detach from the cylinder, we had a special tool to release the gas before taking anything loose. But your car has an Auto hatch, so the recall doesn't apply.

As far as the ABD brain, the parts catalog probably calls it something like, "CONTROLLER - BACK DOOR, AUTO". Nissan frankly makes us nuts with that, part names in our service manuals rarely correspond to the names in the parts catalog. It keeps our parts guys busy emailing DPC, that's for sure. But you need to understand something: Even if you replace the part (which probably isn't faulty), there is no way whatsoever to configure or calibrate the ABD without a scanner that can talk to it. You positively must get it scanned, throwing parts at it is a guaranteed fool's errand. Please take my word for this -- Nissan/ASE master tech, electrical specialist, 40+ years. I know what I'm talking about.

 

[VStar650CL]

You're most welcome. There's never anything wrong with understanding the situation, that's for sure. If it turns out you know more about your ABD than they do, you can tap shoulders as necessary.

 

[VStar650CL]

I'm not sure on either count. I believe the mounting holes for both strut types are the same, but I'm pretty sure the attachment brackets are different so you'd need those along with the gas struts. Without spindle readings the ABD may throw codes that will make it stop working the lock, if so you might need to convert the whole setup to a non-auto. That would be a big job, at least reconfiguring the BCM and possibly replacing it, plus some re-wiring around the ABD. I'd experiment first by disconnecting the spindle motors to see if the rear latch still works normally.

 

[VStar650CL]

CAN addressing is simple but messaging for DTC's isn't. CAN messages that aren't "emissions related" don't need to be OBD-compliant, and many optional systems like your hatch have DTC's that are specific to the manufacturer. The extreme example is an EV like the Nissan Leaf, most of them speak their own CAN dialect because an all-electric drivetrain is completely exempt from OBD. An OBD scanner connected to them will basically say, "Duh?" I can't advise you much on which aftermarket scanners will work because I use Nissan's C3+ scanner at the shop. We also have a Solus and I know that will read it, but that's all I can tell you. Your best bet may be to contact the individual scanner manufacturers and ask specifically about which models will read your ABD Controller.

 

[VStar650CL]

That is some very poor service. I feel you, son.

 

[VStar650CL]

Unbelievable. Did you happen to look over the guy's shoulder to see if "Auto Back Door" was showing up on the DTC readout? There's no red flag that pops up when a system is MIA, it will just be absent on the list.

 

[VStar650CL]

That's deplorable. The only thing I can suggest is perhaps make it throw a DTC that sticks the door, like disconnecting the latch and then telling it to close. Then they'll have to do a door-reset.

 

[VStar650CL]

Would that mean disconnect the rear spindle struts? and reconnect? Would that cause them to stop working?

Any system component that you disconnect and then operate the door will cause the ABD to throw a code and stop operating. Yes, that can be a spindle as well as the latch.

I did notice that their scanner plugged into the same port mine did. That seems odd to me that I can't download a program to read all the codes instead of only a partial set for consumer vs professional level readers? Is this OBD scanner related or software related?

Like I said, the ABD is a Nissan-specific system with manufacturer-defined codes. It doesn't need to be OBD-compliant, so a regular OBD scanner won't detect it.

My question would be what actually holds the door at any given height? Is it the actual spindle strut or a piece inside of it that is failing to lock?

I said at the start I thought your spindles were mis-calibrated. If that's the case, there won't be any codes, the door just thinks the upper limit is lower than the actual mechanical stop. He could have done an ABD reset there in the driveway while the C3+ was connected, and I have no clue why he didn't. It's a 15-second operation.

One other question about the air conditioning in the X-Trail. It's started to fail from time to time an warm up. Not all the time, but intermittently which is why I'm shy to pay a lot for them to look at it. My ODB scanner will only show me that the A/C is either on or off showing a 0 or 1 reading which works fine.

If it's intermittent then it may not be pressure, but the system pressure can be streamed by any good OBD reader (the ECM tracks it and the CAN message is OBD-standard). It's also possible that you have a sticky swash-plate inside the compressor. Rogues use variable-displacement AC compressors, the swash plate is the part that physically changes the piston stroke under control of an electronic solenoid driven by the IPDM. These can stick in the "minimum" position and cause low cooling performance until they un-stick. You can test that easily next time it misbehaves. Turn the blower to minimum and see if the outlet temperature gets cold, then turn the blower to maximum and see if your cooling goes away. If so, it's a stuck swash. If it's warm even with the blower on minimum, then it's most likely a pressure problem.

 

[VStar650CL]

No chance of me being in Mexico anytime soon, but the way things are going here in the 'States, I'll admit that Belize isn't looking impossible. I understand there's a dealership in Belize City...

Here i took a video and held the phone up against the right rear strut and noticed that it makes a knocking sound when moved manually up and down.

That doesn't sound right. They usually make a smooth whine when moved by hand.

What's the easiest component I can disconnect and then use the rear door to throw a code? The spindle cables are fished thru into the body of the car. Is there something else, quick and simple, I can unplug to make this happen?

The latch itself is easiest, the interior trim just pries loose after removing the embedded pull handle (also pries loose). The only caution is be careful of the wires on the "close" switch, have an assistant handy to keep the panel from falling while you disconnect it. The spindle connectors are underneath the headliner, much more difficult to access.

Oh yeah... and I found some Chinese knock offs... kinda makes me tingle inside with fear. But so does the $700usd price tag from Nissan for the struts! I don't think I can do it... but found this info out there on the world wide web!

The OE Nissan spindles are made in China. Chances are the Alibaba ones are "gray market", the original article without branding.

 

[VStar650CL]

Oh, yeah, your A/C. Consult3+ also has a calibration utility for the servos, in Work Support under the HVAC tab. That may or may not be your issue, it could be a bad passenger mix servo. The servos are just plain-jane stepper motors and very inexpensive by Nissan standards, but getting at that one for replacement isn't so easy, it's halfway up the side of the HVAC box and requires at least removing the glove box.

 

[VStar650CL]

Same here
2016 Nissan Xtrail
Portugal

any news?

Since this whole exchange, I became aware that there's a simple, no-tools reset for the ABD's on all gen2 Rogues. Open the hatch all the way manually, then press and hold the "close" button until the controller beeps. Then close the hatch manually. The controller should now be reset and the hatch should resume working normally. If not, then there's an actual hardware issue that a reset won't fix.

 

[VStar650CL]

i bought two used struts from an accidented car
it's plug and play? i think so, but...

Yes, but the ABD Controller needs to be reset after replacing the struts as I described above.

 

[VStar650CL]

Yes, there are ABD codes that will completely disable the system and make the release quit working if they occur repeatedly. Because the release uses a cinch motor, I'm not sure how you'd get around that for a manual-strut conversion. You could re-wire the cinch motor to use a DPDT switch to allow releasing it, but you'd also need to cinch it manually so it would be very clumsy. Let me look into the manual latching type tomorrow, if it's self-contained and not run by the BCM then you may be able to use that. If the BCM runs it then you have a can of worms, because you'll need to use something like a spring-latching electric release off a different model and make it fit by modifying the hatch.

 

[VStar650CL]

Now that I think about it, the ABD is most likely throwing codes for the spindle encoders (position sensors). The inputs may be "floating" with the spindles unplugged, causing false movement signals that accumulate into a problem. Grounding the encoder wires at the spindle connectors should cure that. I'll get you some connector and wire color information this afternoon.

 

[VStar650CL]

Here are the spindle connectors in your roof. The diagrams are from the "Harness View", i.e., the side where the wires enter the connector:
LEFT - You want to ground the White and Blue wires at pins 3 and 5:

RIGHT - You want to ground the Red and Sky Blue wires at pins 3 and 5:

I think that will most likely solve your problem. I hope so, because the Manual hatch is BCM-driven so you don't have options that won't mean significant rework or bodging.

 

[VStar650CL]

Yes, driver's side is left. The back of the headliner needs to be dropped slightly to access the connectors, and that isn't so simple on a Rogue. You might want to get some professional help for that, or consult the service manual (it's pretty much the same operation for '14~'20, so a manual from any of those years will suffice). The easiest way to handle the wiring and preserve the connectors for the future is to pull what's left of the spindle wires through the grommet. You can then use them as a pigtail that mates with the harness, and you can put the grommet back in the hole and seal it with RTV silicone so it won't leak. Grounding just means attaching to the metal of the car, and it doesn't matter where you attach. The entire chassis and body is "ground". You could actually do it outside the grommets except Nissan doesn't specify the wire colors of the spindle wiring, that's arbitrary and is determined by the spindle manufacturer. So there's no way to determine which wire is which without dropping the headliner to see the harness connector.