Nissan Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, after 140k I am testing at

Cyl 1: 130 lbs compression
Cyl 2: 140 lbs compression
Cyl 3: 30 lbs compression
Cyl 4: 30 lbs compression

I am going to do a wet test and leak down because I am curious, but I just scored a 31k mile motor on ebay for $150. Its only a few hours away so going to pick it up next week.

I had some problems with both the low end and top end when I bought the car. Nissan replaced the motor twice. At 50k miles the clutch went out. I put a stage 1 action clutch in and it's going strong.

I am honestly going to check the clutch and see if I need one. Its $415 for the kit and I honestly doubt it has much wear. I kind of want the bragging rights of doing a complete swap for $150 plus some diesel and time to go get it. Hopefully it comes with the fixins and I will probably use the accessories it comes with, strip my motor down and throw them all in a box for safekeeping. Strip the block down to see what happened, because I am curious. And scrap the head and block for the aluminum.

Is there a thread on here for a swap? I think I am going out the top and leaving the tranny in. I may ask a favor to use a shop/lift and drop the subframe. But I bet I can swap this in a day or two at home.

I will try and shoot some pictures and post. Not much info out there on this.

Open to all suggestions.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
Do you think this is a blown head gasket ?
I am suspicious because 3 and 4 are so low and simular!
good luck with your swap.
Since you already put a clutch in, just separate the engins and trans, disconnect the engine and auxiliaries and lift out.
I always took head off to reduce weight and size, but that was in simpler times.
good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the tips!
I second guessed my decision and panicked thinking that too. I wet tested it and the compression shot up, so I’m thinking it’s rings. But my buddy said for $150 it’s less than the machine work to have the head done. Maybe one I pick the motor up I should just pull my head before taking it all the way out. Then again, I have 140k miles and a fresh motor and it’s an easy change. What would anyone else do? Feel free to jump in. Ha.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
well I agree with your buddy, my prices are undoubtedly out of date but that engine is a bargain. If rings are gone you will need new pistons. The ring groove tolerance will be out.
Are you burning oil?
If compression rings are shot blow-by will cause oil consumption by blowing oil out the PVC valve and burning it.
So Yes buy the engine. I still feel its possible its the head gasket.
swapping the Engine isnt as simple as when I last did it. If you can take off head and it is the gasket, bores look ok, no holes around edge of pistons, then I think go ahead swap head, water and oil pump if its front mounted type and go.

Good luck, please keep us informed of your progress.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That’s a good point about using the new head if it is just the gasket.

Yeah I have been burning a ton of oil. I’ve read about newer engines burning more because they try so hard to reduce friction, but I had a feeling something was off and checked compression while doing plugs

I can remember when I noticed it seemed to loose some power. Just one day it felt slow. It was maybe 7k miles ago

Last motor I did was a 71 Mercedes diesel, but those are mounted straight in. I saw a guy pull just the motor out of a versa but I am doubting the clearance to separate the tranny. I think I might bring them out together.

I have done a clutch in this car and I dropped the transmission out the drivers side wheel well.

But it is true I could probably have the head done pretty cheaply.

Tough calls. And Yes I will post the job and take some pictures. Going Monday to pick up the motor.
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
Well if you are losing that much oil it's probably the pistons and rings!

The only other time I lost a lot of oil was down the intake gasket on a V8.
I think you will need that Engine !

Good luck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Well if you are losing that much oil it's probably the pistons and rings!

The only other time I lost a lot of oil was down the intake gasket on a V8.
I think you will need that Engine !

Good luck...
Thank you. Hitting the road tomorrow. I sold my engine stand at a garage sale awhile back and kicked myself now. Went to harbor freight today and they were sold out. They did have the next size up on sale for $12 more. Off to a good start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ok we made a quick road trip and picked it up. I am surprised by how light it is. I have never had an aluminum block. Two strong guys could probably lift it. My dad and I aren't two strong guys so we rented a picker for an hour.

The spark plugs look original and what I would expect for 25k miles.

It has the original blue coolant in it.

The dickstip looks nice and clean.

I picked up tranny fluid for the manual, coolant, a thermostat, and I had sparkplugs and oil. I am $412 into it so far. I need a serpentine belt. I am debating on the water pump. It is $80. I pulled mine out and it looks flawless, which probably means nothing.

I am also looking for a pilot bearing. I am going to reuse the clutch but am reluctant to pull my old pilot bearing and reuse it. It is a stage 1 from Action Clutch. I will measure the thickness when I get it out and make sure there are no cracks.


6881
6883
6884
6885
6882
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I am partway there. Basically, on the lower backside of the motor, there are two bell housing bolts facing the opposite direction. A ton of heat guards. A crank position sensor. And a little gremlin that stops you from getting to them. The proper procedure is to drop the subframe, but I don't have a lift. After this experience, I want one.

I have most of the bolts out, I thought. I supported the bottom of the motor on the pulley side with the stock jack and unbolted the motor mount. I hooked up the engine hoist and then could support it with that. I moved the jack to the transmission and was going to try and wiggle the engine out. But I missed some bolts. So I had to reattach the engine mount so I could jack it up again.

I am going to try getting some heat shields out of the way, but if I fail to separate them I am going to hate life. So I think I may just drain the tranny and pull the axles. And pull them both out.

Learning how difficult it is to replace the alternator, I may get a new one and do it while the engine is out.

I unbolted it and zip tied it up near the radiator. You have to bend some coolant lines take the bumper off to get it out.

I also learned the doner motor that was matched with an auto trans has a different flange for where the heater core hooks up. My manual car has one less pipe. So I have to switch those and get a gasket. The Nissan part number for that gasket is 11062-1KT0A. Any parts store should be able to cross-reference that number. I will post a picture of the flange.

So if you are reading this and about to do it, get a new water pump, alternator, tensioner pulley, and belt and replace all those. Get new coolant hoses (7 total) and spark plugs. And don't try to get here in again. I unbolted the AC pump and am trying to leave it in and not crack the lines. Fingers crossed.

6895


6896


6897
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
Dont forget the pilot bearing only spins and has wear when you have your foot on the pedal. It's probably fine even with stage one clutch for a long time. Did you actually get one that's different from stock with the stage one ?
The water pump is just a wear on the seals and bearing issue, can you use the one one the donor engine ? How many miles on you old water pump?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Ok here is the weird part. The manual doesn't have a pilot bushing. The automatic donor does but its pressed in on the end. The pilot is ID 19.5 and the interior hole on the crank and tranny output shaft is 20.5.

While assembling, we gave them too much force while the tranny wasn't fitting, and cracked part of the lower oil pan that connects to the bell housing. So I have it back on the stand and am swapping the lower pans. The oil pump is driven off the timing chain and built into the lower pan, so I have to get into the timing chain. I mine as well check the crank bearings at this point.

My old water pump had 140k miles. My donor has 30k but it probably sat a lot and dried out. Its so hard to get to the front of that motor, I just got the alternator rebuilt, water pump, tensioner pulley, and heater hoses.

Big project but when done hopefully I won't have to touch the damn thing again for 150k miles. Pictures of the auto donor with the pilot bushing below. Once I burn out on computer work I am going to go pull it out.


6904
6903
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
Well that's interesting, the auto uses a pilot bearing to stabilize one side of the torque converter that presumably rotates at transmission Input speed. ? ?
I think you are doing an excellent job, but I was brought up in post war Britain and would reuse more than you, but as I said you are doing an excellent job.
Bearing looks thicker than 0.5 mm so I think the ID is smaller.
Good luck, keep it coming !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Well that's interesting, the auto uses a pilot bearing to stabilize one side of the torque converter that presumably rotates at transmission Input speed. ? ?
I think you are doing an excellent job, but I was brought up in post war Britain and would reuse more than you, but as I said you are doing an excellent job.
Bearing looks thicker than 0.5 mm so I think the ID is smaller.
Good luck, keep it coming !
Yeah I know my generation is so wasteful. For me its time and convenience. I am X dollars per hour and the time to replace an alternator later isn't worth it. I will throw some extra parts in the trunk. And will make a post somewhere to give away the parts for someone in need.

So I got a bite on this pilot bearing with my little slide hammer but its not coming out. My big one needs new teeth. Writing this I realize maybe I need to invest in a new tool. I am wondering about heating it with the torch. Or I could weld a nut to it that would give me a great grip to grab onto and hit with the big slide hammer. I am removing the lower pan so I might replace the main seal. Heating the crank seems sketchy.

Putting the word out and seeing what the committees think. No rush now. I live in a tiny little town and bike everywhere.

6908

6909
 

·
Registered
2018 Nissan Pathfinder SL
Joined
·
4,240 Posts
maybe a new post on the pilot bearing ?
I dont like using a torch around seals.

otherwise I dont know about welding on to the pilot bearing, someone else might have more insight.
Have a good Thanksgiving!
 

·
Sup Mod keeping the peace
Joined
·
7,224 Posts
Yeah I know my generation is so wasteful. For me its time and convenience. I am X dollars per hour and the time to replace an alternator later isn't worth it. I will throw some extra parts in the trunk. And will make a post somewhere to give away the parts for someone in need.

So I got a bite on this pilot bearing with my little slide hammer but its not coming out. My big one needs new teeth. Writing this I realize maybe I need to invest in a new tool. I am wondering about heating it with the torch. Or I could weld a nut to it that would give me a great grip to grab onto and hit with the big slide hammer. I am removing the lower pan so I might replace the main seal. Heating the crank seems sketchy.

Putting the word out and seeing what the committees think. No rush now. I live in a tiny little town and bike everywhere.

View attachment 6908
View attachment 6909
Pilot bearings can be pita to remove. Slide hammers don't always work and can mess up a pilot bearing if you ever want to re-use it. Here's a tool that I use; works every time:

 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top